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post #1 of 16 Old 06-11-2019, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
Sand1235
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WK transmissions

So I have a 2006 WK with the 4.7 and the transmission is failing and needing a rebuild. I am looking at possibly finding a donor WK. I have found a rolled 2005 with the 3.7. Any chance that this will work?

Sorry, I'm a TJ guy and don't know much on the WK's.


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post #2 of 16 Old 06-11-2019, 06:59 PM
90grandoneer
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That would be nice, BUT it won't work. You need one out of another 4.7 or one out of a 5.7.

Are you sure it needs rebuilding? What is wrong with it?

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post #3 of 16 Old 06-11-2019, 08:40 PM
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Anything with a 4.7 or any truck based 5.7. Those will have the correct 545rfe trans you need.

I'm pretty sure there's a year break kind of thing in there somewhere. Make a note of the electrical connections on yours and compare.

Also curious what has led you to look for a whole trans. IE: what's it doing?

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post #4 of 16 Old 06-11-2019, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer View Post
That would be nice, BUT it won't work. You need one out of another 4.7 or one out of a 5.7.

Are you sure it needs rebuilding? What is wrong with it?
It doesn't want to go faster than about 10mph easily. It clunks, and won't accelerate hardly at all. Give it more gas and it doesn't help, let off and it clunks again (downshifting I believe) and starts to take off again. I figured slipping clutches, took it to the mechanic and he said it'll need a rebuild.

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post #5 of 16 Old 06-12-2019, 05:24 AM
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Hmm, I'd do a little more troubleshooting first. Codes? Kinda sounds like limp mode where it defaults to 3rd but you can manually select 2nd if I recall correctly. Limp mode can be caused by many things. Clunking from on/off throttle can be many things, but I'd not suspect the trans first.

Do a little due diligence first, you may save yourself a lot of time/money.

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post #6 of 16 Old 06-12-2019, 07:13 AM
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Have you checked the fluid? Is it burned up, brown, thin? These things are more electronic than mechanical really, as stated above I would check for trans codes. You could also try having a shop run the quick learn program on it in case something got knocked out of whack.
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-12-2019, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arneb04 View Post
Have you checked the fluid? Is it burned up, brown, thin? These things are more electronic than mechanical really, as stated above I would check for trans codes. You could also try having a shop run the quick learn program on it in case something got knocked out of whack.
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Originally Posted by caulk04 View Post
Hmm, I'd do a little more troubleshooting first. Codes? Kinda sounds like limp mode where it defaults to 3rd but you can manually select 2nd if I recall correctly. Limp mode can be caused by many things. Clunking from on/off throttle can be many things, but I'd not suspect the trans first.

Do a little due diligence first, you may save yourself a lot of time/money.
X2 on all of the above. Many, many shops don't want to be bothered troubleshooting these things and almost automatically just say you need a new transmission. Did the mechanic do any troubleshooting? Did he/she even check the fluid level/condition? Did he/she put a code reader on it that is capable of reading transmission codes?

Also, as said, it could be something rather simple such as a split main filter, a bad pressure switch, etc. Has this unit ever been serviced since you've owned it? How many miles on it?

Also, just noticed you're just a bit east of my hangout.....I am in the City of Trees.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS and HP tuners, Transgo Shift Kit, ARH Long Tube Hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads w/new valve seats, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's. Also 05 Hemi LX modded exactly like WK and Comp Cammed 06 300CSRT8.
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-13-2019, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer View Post
As said, it could be something rather simple such as a split main filter, a bad pressure switch, etc. Has this unit ever been serviced since you've owned it? How many miles on it?
X3 on the above...

You have the (5)45RFE transmission and it's the same one used behind just about any Dodge/Jeep V8 from '99-'10. Used units can be had for a few $100. I recently bought one w/ 120k miles from an '04 Dodge p/u for $150 to put into my daughter's WJ a few months back.

As stated above, you really need to have a (upper-level) scanner to read the transmission codes to know what the problem is as these things are pretty much fully electronic. Unless of course you just want to throw $3500 at it with a new tranny.

Did this problem "just happen" or did it come about gradually? What were the conditions leading up to its current state?

Is your plan to swap it out yourself? It can be done, but I would say it's not a "couple hours in the afternoon" type of job when doing it by yourself. Ask me how I know... (see here)

I have a link to a manual for these transmissions here: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/...l#post40620201

Is your WK 4WD? If so, you may have to swap out the tail-shaft housing depending on which vehicle you get your replacement trans from. The housings on the trucks are shorter than on the Jeeps.

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post #9 of 16 Old Yesterday, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, sorry it's been so long, I hadn't driven it in a very long time and needed to drive it to again to better answer your questions.

Quote:
. Hmm, I'd do a little more troubleshooting first. Codes? Kinda sounds like limp mode where it defaults to 3rd but you can manually select 2nd if I recall correctly. Limp mode can be caused by many things. Clunking from on/off throttle can be many things, but I'd not suspect the trans first.
It does seem to be locked into 3rd. Couldn't get it manually shift into anything else. Check engine light is on, but haven't scanned it yet. I don't know if my little scanner will be able to pull transmission codes. I'll try to later today though.


Quote:
.Have you checked the fluid? Is it burned up, brown, thin? These things are more electronic than mechanical really, as stated above I would check for trans codes. You could also try having a shop run the quick learn program on it in case something got knocked out of whack.
I haven't checked the fluid yet. I hope to look at that today. It might come down to having a shop reflash it before I do anything.



Quote:
.X2 on all of the above. Many, many shops don't want to be bothered troubleshooting these things and almost automatically just say you need a new transmission. Did the mechanic do any troubleshooting? Did he/she even check the fluid level/condition? Did he/she put a code reader on it that is capable of reading transmission codes?

Also, as said, it could be something rather simple such as a split main filter, a bad pressure switch, etc. Has this unit ever been serviced since you've owned it? How many miles on it?

Also, just noticed you're just a bit east of my hangout.....I am in the City of Trees.
I honestly have no idea what the shop did. It's been a while now as well and my memory isn't great. The transmission should have been flushed at the dealer at 100k. It's more got 150k. So it's due.

I might look into pulling the pan and changing the filter if I don't find anything with the code reader today. It does have a check engine light on though. Hopefully related.

I didn't notice you were from Idaho. Glad to see another Idaho person on here.

Quote:
.Did this problem "just happen" or did it come about gradually? What were the conditions leading up to its current state?

Is your plan to swap it out yourself? It can be done, but I would say it's not a "couple hours in the afternoon" type of job when doing it by yourself. Ask me how I know... (see here)

I have a link to a manual for these transmissions here: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/...l#post40620201

Is your WK 4WD? If so, you may have to swap out the tail-shaft housing depending on which vehicle you get your replacement trans from. The housings on the trucks are shorter than on the Jeeps.
It's been probably about a year, but I think it just started one day. So there's a good chance it's in limp mode. I'll look at that manual, thank you much.

The Jeep is an AWD. So I'll keep the tailshaft in mind if it comes to it.
If it needs swapped, yes I'll do that myself. I figured it would be a weekend project. Thanks for your write up.

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post #10 of 16 Old Yesterday, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Alright so I'm finally looking at this Jeep on my own. My scan tool pulled up 8 codes, P0876 and P0700 came up twice.

P0731
Gear Ratio Error in 1st

P0700
Transmission Control System (MIL Request)

P0841
LR Pressure switch Rationality

P0732
Gear Ratio Error in 2nd

P0870
OD Hydraulic Pressure Test

P0876
UD Pressure Switch Rationality


Fluid level seems ok. It's still a red color on my paper towel. Smells a little burnt.

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post #11 of 16 Old Yesterday, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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The Jeep is telling me to service 4wd on the dash, but I can't pull any of that up on my scan tool. It won't let me shift into 4 low either. And I had forgotten, but I had this flashed at the dealer way back when to get the 4 low to work. I can't remember what that flash was called, but would that possibly be related?

Also a side note, but the airbag light is on. Any ideas for that?

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post #12 of 16 Old Yesterday, 12:10 PM
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Just for starters, before you get too involved in this, clear all the codes and see if it works better. Take note of the time it takes to engage whatever gear you select and also the time it takes when shifting from reverse to drive. If it will drive and shift, take note of the shift quality......smooth, engine flare (slipping), harsh/rough. Then see if the codes return and if they're all the same ones. If so, it's time to drop the pan and see if there is anything obvious going on. If/when you drop the pan, see if the side of the main filter is split at the seam and if there is any debris (metal, aluminum, or clutch material (sort of looks like rag lint). Results of this "look see" should help you make a decision on which direction to go next.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS and HP tuners, Transgo Shift Kit, ARH Long Tube Hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads w/new valve seats, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's. Also 05 Hemi LX modded exactly like WK and Comp Cammed 06 300CSRT8.
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post #13 of 16 Old Yesterday, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer View Post
Just for starters, before you get too involved in this, clear all the codes and see if it works better. Take note of the time it takes to engage whatever gear you select and also the time it takes when shifting from reverse to drive. If it will drive and shift, take note of the shift quality......smooth, engine flare (slipping), harsh/rough. Then see if the codes return and if they're all the same ones. If so, it's time to drop the pan and see if there is anything obvious going on. If/when you drop the pan, see if the side of the main filter is split at the seam and if there is any debris (metal, aluminum, or clutch material (sort of looks like rag lint). Results of this "look see" should help you make a decision on which direction to go next.
I cleared the codes after I read them all. I didn't scan it again after, but it acted exactly the same with no improvement at any time.
It'll go into reverse, but then it requires high rpm and then it'll grab and start to move. In drive it is almost identical acting, takes about 3,000 rpm to grab and start moving. It will not shift into any other gear except 3rd. Even manually. But when it grabs, it doesn't feel like it slipping.
When I drive it, there is a harsh pop coming from underneath occasionally. It was just me this morning, so I couldn't locate where the noise was coming from underneath. Only does it while moving.

In a while I'm hoping to look at it a little more again and possibly drop the pan.

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post #14 of 16 Old Yesterday, 02:05 PM
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Yes, I'd drop the pan now. It almost sounds like a pressure switch or a split filter, because you have to get the RPM up so high (build enough pressure) before it will engage. What happens with the split filter is that it sucks a lot of air instead of fluid.

Good luck and please keep us posted on your findings/fix(s).

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS and HP tuners, Transgo Shift Kit, ARH Long Tube Hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads w/new valve seats, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's. Also 05 Hemi LX modded exactly like WK and Comp Cammed 06 300CSRT8.
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post #15 of 16 Old Yesterday, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer View Post
Yes, I'd drop the pan now. It almost sounds like a pressure switch or a split filter, because you have to get the RPM up so high (build enough pressure) before it will engage. What happens with the split filter is that it sucks a lot of air instead of fluid.

Good luck and please keep us posted on your findings/fix(s).
Very metallic on the magnet and filter. Filter doesn't look split.
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