WK Suspension Lift - FAQ Link Broken - Please Help! - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 5 Old 04-16-2021, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
nwoods
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2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 84
WK Suspension Lift - FAQ Link Broken - Please Help!

I searched online and found a lot of vagueness, and the FAQ's here on this page have a broken link that would probably answer my questions, but..... My point is, I did look, but I still have to ask some noobie questions:

OME vs Bilstien?
Rocky Road says their OME lift is about 1.5" Notrailrated says their Bilstien lift nets about 4", but they don't respond to any contact requests, so I don't think they are a real vendor (anymore?).


How do you get a 3" Lift from the OME package?
I own 285/70/70 tires (33"), so I think I need at least a 3" lift. I see MANY references on this site to a 3" OME lift. How do you get that? What part numbers and components are necessary?

Who is still in business?
As I search for WK parts, it seems most things are discontinued, like 4xGuard and NotrailRated. So where are you buying your kit from?

If buying Bilsteins, what part numbers?
You can get Bilteins from just about anywhere, if you know what you are ordering. But I don't know what to order......

Track Bars?
I see track bars from Rocky Road, Notrailrated, OB Engineering, and maybe others. Necessary? Who is using these? Which one did you use? And why?

Upper Control Arms
For a 3" lift, are they necessary? My Jeep has 150,000 miles. Could I just replace the upper ball joint and save myself $500? Whose Upper Control arms are better? OB Engineering? JBA, or Rocky Road? and Why?

Does anyone sell a 3" lift kit that is not just a spacer lift?
At 150k miles, my existing suspension is done. I need to replace it all, so a spacer lift does not appeal. I need new shocks and springs anyway. I also need new rubber isolators (avail from Quadratech), ball joints, etc... I would LOVE to give one company my money and be done with it. Any suggestions?


2006 Jeep WK on 33s
HAM: KI6FPO
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post #2 of 5 Old 04-17-2021, 12:16 AM
HEMI426
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Join Date: Jan 2018
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I can’t answer all your questions, but here are some;
Who is still in business?contact @Kolak
Upper Control Arms. I chose JBA because everybody recommended it.
Track Bars? I heard its recommended if you have more than 2” lift. I guess the track bar will reposition/center the rear differential.
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post #3 of 5 Old 04-17-2021, 08:25 AM
underscore
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Location: Kelowna
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OME lifts far more than 1.5", it's advertised as 2" but generally gives 2.5". Bilstein 4600's also seem to have the spring perch a little higher than stock. I had good results with 4600's, OME MD springs, and doubled up rear coil isolators with 32" tires. The 4600's and springs I ordered from the cheapest place I found, the isolators, balljoints, etc I ordered from RockAuto. If you're in the US just order it all from @Kolak .


I didn't bother with a track bar and had no issues.


The aftermarket UCA's, in my opinion, are unnecessary. You can get adjustable upper balljoints from Moog and Mevotech that have more than enough adjustment to work with the OME lift. My friend just put stock spec ones in with his 2" lift and he's just having to replace them after 7 years. JBA used to make them for stock height WK's too, which was even more hilariously pointless. The fancy arms are not magic, they still have a balljoint, they will still need replacement.

00 WJ
[x] 07 WK CRD/OME/MALONE 1.5 [x] 00 XJ/OME [x] 97 TJ [x] 92 YJ
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post #4 of 5 Old 04-17-2021, 09:09 AM
kbwk
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Orange County
Posts: 26
NotTrailRated’s lift is simply known around here as modified OME. It consists of Bilstien 5100’s, OME springs, and a 2” spacer. The optional track bar from Rusty’s offroad.

I’d second talking to @Kolak , I wish I had known when I bought my springs and shocks.

I run the above lift, with MD springs up front and HD springs in the back. I also run JBA arms, they’re a bit expensive, but you get what you pay for. The JBA arms by far the best available.

I have the front strut set on the middle setting. Definitely *don’t* go to the top seeing, or with the HD springs up front, unless you have the CRD and a steel bumper with winch, or your hub to fender will be way to high and the ride will be terrible.

Definitely would recommend an adjustable track bar at 3-4” to re-center the rear axle. Without it the axle will be shifted driver side. I don’t personally run one, but I’ve heard good things about the Core 4x4 track bar.

At 4”, the radius that your rear control arms travel will be prone to stuffing the front. Upgrading to longer / adjustable rear control arms (uppers and lowers) can address this.
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post #5 of 5 Old 04-18-2021, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
nwoods
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2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 84
Thank you for the responses. I will reach out to Kolak on Monday.

2006 Jeep WK on 33s
HAM: KI6FPO
Offroad Photography:
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