WK HEC to Electric Fan Conversion - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 5 Old 05-12-2021, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
caroedell
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2005 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mesa
Posts: 60
WK HEC to Electric Fan Conversion

WK's with the 5.7L hemi or 3.0L CRD came with an alternate radiator cooling system known as the Hydraulic Engine Cooler (HEC). These systems work off of the Power steering pump and require q special type of power steering fluid. When these systems fail, they are non-serviceable and must be replaced with a dealer only $1500.00 +tax unit. Not cost effective for a 15+ year old Jeep. Buying a used unit from a scrap yard is still several hundred dollars and probably not warrantied. |
The best solution in my opinion is converting to an electric fan set-up. Here is an outline I created based on my experience converting my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited from HEC to Electric Fan Cooling


WK Electric Fan Conversion
1. Removals
a remove battery and battery tray from vehicle.
b. remove air filter box and air intake box
c. remove grill and top radiator support.
the hood release is still connected, so put support out of way.zip tie it
c. drain radiator and remove top radiator hose
d. drain power steering reservoir and remove it. plug the hose ends to minimize spills.
e. remove front skid plate.
f. remove power steering pressure hose, HEC to power rack/pinion hose, and power steering hoses at power steering cooler. plug cooler ends to minimize leaks.
1. p/s pressure hose and HEC to rack hose are not needed after removal.
g. remove HEC (hydraulic engine cooler)
1. remove HEC solenoid
2. magnet will pop off with a little pressure),
3. unscrew rest of solenoid with 17mm socket. save for later.
h. remove radiator.
1. easiest if you disconnect the a/c lines to condenser and both transmission cooler lines.
2. plug transmission cooler lines to minimize mess.
2. Cleaning.
a. at this point I degreased and pressure washed the front engine compartment
b. clean radiator, reservoir and HEC solenoid.
4. Connect new power steering pressure hose
a you must change the output thread connector nut on the power steering pump from a M20 to M16 thread connector nut.
a. I switched connector nut with one from an 2004? dodge charger 4.7L power steering pump.
c. original spring and piston stay in place.
b. used a power pressure steering hose off a 2009 Aspen with 4.7L.
1. hose requires slight bending at p/s pump end.
2. easiest to connect hose end at power ram using a crow's foot wrench on a long extension.
3. Fan Conversion. I Switched over to a Flex-a-Lite Extreme Magic fan (#180) with included fan controller.
a. cut two pieces of 3/4" box steel tubing to 12" length
a. Mount 3/4" box steel tubing to radiator where HEC pump was mounted.
1. trim lengths if needed for better fit.
2. drill through box steel tubing at locations centered where HEC mounted to radiator.
3. use shorter 6mm bolts than original to prevent damaging radiator plastic tanks.
c. mount fan to box steel using fan kit provided aluminum angle brackets.
1. bottom of brackets will mount through existing bolts mounting box steel tubing to radiator
2. tap 6mm x 1.0 threads half way through box steel tubing to mount top of aluminum brackets
3. the aluminum brackets will require trimming.
4. the aluminum brackets may require additional slotting
d. mount fan controller to radiator aluminum bracket on driver side.
1. mount so top of controller is 7" below top of raditor shroud.
2. drill aluminum bracket for included self trapping screws
4. Install radiator to original mounts.
a. re-connect a/c lines and transmission cooler lines
b. fiber air blocks on side of radiator may need modification. (not sure of their actual name).
c. a/c cannister bracket will need some bending.
d. re-connect P/S hose from rack/pinion to P/S cooler
5. Wire fan controller as listed in fan kit manual.
a. I ran most wiring underneath the battery tray.
1. run the fused power wire, battery ground wire, and thermostatic control wire underneath the battery tray
a. exiting back corner towards driver side
b. protected in plastic conduit.
2. reconnect the HEC solenoid
a. have connected to prevent engine codes.
b. run the HEC solenoid underneath the battery tray.
c. connect wire end with a zip tie to body to prevent unwanted movement.
b. for the thermostatic control wire, the spare ignition controlled fuse in the (smaller) engine compartment fuse block .
1. used an "add a fuse kit"
2. Dremel a slot in block cover for wire thru passage.
c. install temperature probe through radiator and P/S cooler near top radiator hose inlet
6. P/S reservoir modification
a. plug one of reservoir return ports.
1. no longer needed.
2. used JB weld putty
3. plus rubber vacuum cap with hose clamp
B. made bracket to hold power steering pump
1. used long L-bracket from fan kit
2. bend to shape.
3. secured bracket to body in front of battery tray area
4. tapped thru with 6mm x 1.0 threads
7. Reinstallations
a. install P/S reservoir
1. Aluminum bracket should hold reservoir against radiator
2. top radiator hose will later help with positioning.
3. reconnect P/S hose between P/S cooler and reservoir.
4. reconnect P/S hose between P/S reservoir and P/S pump inlet.
b. re-install top radiator support
1. may need adjustment for hood latch
2. ok to attach grill after adjustment
c. re-install radiator hoses
1. position P/S pump between top hose and radiator shroud
d. re-install battery tray.
1.make sure fan kit wires pass thru back corner without pinching
e. re-install air filter box and air intake box
f. Re-install front skid plate
g. reinstall battery
8. Fluids
a. fill radiator coolant
b. fill power steering reservoir
c. check transmission fluid level
d. recharge A/C

I tried my best to remember everything involved in this procedure. If I made any mistakes or omissions, let me know
and I will update this outline. If you have a better solution for the P/S reservoir mounting let me know as well.

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post #2 of 5 Old 05-12-2021, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
caroedell
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2005 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mesa
Posts: 60
any body know how to format outline for tabs?
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post #3 of 5 Old 05-13-2021, 07:22 AM
MA_Racing27
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Posts: 21
So I used 2 12 inch fans(12 or 14, I will confirm when I get home) and I modified my factory fan shroud. I shaved down all of the fins and everything on the back side that held the fan. To remove the fan motor you will need to remove the fan blades. To do this you have to use a p/s pulley puller. Some one used for the pump just one of the different threaded attachments. I then too a heavy duty mud flap for an 18 wheeler and cut it to size and cut a notch in it for the reservoir mount on the factory shroud. Which was one of the main goals I had in mind for re using the factory shroud. That and it will bolt right up to radiator 😁 I haven't completely finished this and the fans are currently zap strapped to the radiator temporarily.
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post #4 of 5 Old 05-13-2021, 07:26 AM
MA_Racing27
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What fluid did you refill your p/s system with and what did you do for the return line for the p/s fluid cooler? I ran temporary soft lines to a factory cooler off a 4.7(it just has barb connectors and was easy to slap in) I ask about the fluid because I refilled mine with an mvatf(multi viscosity automatic trans fluid) and flushed the system really well. I also installed a remanded rack and pinion I got lucky finding at the pick-n-pull. My rack was having problems so this got addressed at the same time.
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post #5 of 5 Old 05-14-2021, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
caroedell
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2005 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mesa
Posts: 60
I used Lubegard 23232 Complete Synthetic Power Steering, which is compatible with the original Mopar Electric Power Steering fluid (68088485AB). this type of p/s fluid may not be needed anymore, but I did not want to take a chance on damaging my rack and pinion in case it for some reason it might require this fluid.
The return line from the power steering cooler still returns to the original port of the power steering reservoir. I blocked the port that returned from the HEC.

Last edited by caroedell; 05-14-2021 at 07:35 AM. Reason: omission
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