WK Grand Cherokee Auto Transmission Cooler Hose Replacement - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 08-08-2020, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
ashatley5
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WK Grand Cherokee Auto Transmission Cooler Hose Replacement

Hello,

I have a 2008 Grand Cherokee. The auto trans hose is leaking near the condenser. I would like to attempt to replace them. Do I need to drain the trans fluid or just top off after repair?

Part# 624-281

Thanks!

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post #2 of 12 Old 08-09-2020, 06:40 AM
RCS1300
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On the 4.7L V8 I did not have to drain the fluids. The belt and fan had to come out to make room to get the old hoses out and new hoses in place. A special tool was needed to disconnect the hose from the condenser. I had to cut the old line at the transmission with a hack saw so I could remove the fastener with a socket. If it is the rubber hose connection that is leaking, some people cut the metal on both sides of the hose and use a replacement rubber hose with hose clamps. Not sure if they flare the metal before attaching the rubber hose.
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post #3 of 12 Old 08-09-2020, 09:27 AM
90grandoneer
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Pretty much what RCS1300 said above. This is a common problem, at least with the 4.7-5.7's. The most common fix by DIY'ers is to do as he said. I haven't heard of anyone having a problem with this type of fix. Your other option is to either buy new lines (if they're still available), or do like I did.....remove them (not a fun job) and have new hoses swagged on by your local hydraulic equipment company that rebuilds hydraulic components/hoses. Cost me less than $20 for both. If you just replace the hoses in place by cutting the old ones off, be sure to use oil resistant hose and double clamp both ends of each for additional insurance against leakage.
'

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post #4 of 12 Old 08-09-2020, 09:39 AM
RCS1300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer View Post
...or do like I did.....remove them (not a fun job) and have new hoses swagged on by your local hydraulic equipment company that rebuilds hydraulic components/hoses. Cost me less than $20 for both.
'
Can you explain "swagged on" so that I can have that as an option next time? Maneuvering those OEM hoses out and in is quite a trick that involves lots of patience. On my 4.7L, both fans had to come out - the electric and hydraulic.
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post #5 of 12 Old 08-09-2020, 05:47 PM
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I used a dremel with the heavy duty cutting wheel to score and cut the crimped end of the hose off. Do not cut the line just the crimp. There will be a little bubble in the line that you can uses as a barb if you wish (I did not). Then used transmission hose with double fuel injection line clamps on each end. I put some Indian Gasket Sealer on the end of the pipes as well. Going on 6 months now and no leaks. There are a few You Tube Videos on the fix.
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post #6 of 12 Old 08-09-2020, 07:24 PM
90grandoneer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCS1300 View Post
Can you explain "swagged on" so that I can have that as an option next time? Maneuvering those OEM hoses out and in is quite a trick that involves lots of patience. On my 4.7L, both fans had to come out - the electric and hydraulic.
Ha, first I spelled it wrong. It is spelled swaged and in the automotive world it is something like the cooler line hoses being inserted into a metal sleeve and then crimped tightly all the way around onto the metal tubing. It's the way the stock lines were put together. It's my understanding that, with the proper tooling (like a hydraulic equipment repair shop) it's a quicker, easier and more reliable way of connecting things like rubber or steel braided hoses to their fittings or metal tubes. Any fully equipped hydraulic equipment repair shop will have the equipment to do it for you. I remember when I took my hoses/lines into the shop, I just told them I needed new hose put on the metal tubing. I had them back in about 2 hours and less than $20 for both. This was probably 5-7 years ago. I haven't had a problem since. Mine seeped (never outright leaked) for several years before I finally decided to tackle the PITA job. You have to disconnect them at the transmission and cooler, and then try to route and snake them out from under the vehicle. If you ever do it, make good mental notes on how and where they were routed so you can put them back in the exact same way. They're really awkward to work with and not bend the crap out of them.

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post #7 of 12 Old 08-10-2020, 03:52 AM
RCS1300
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Thanks, those are two excellent options in the above two posts! I will do one of those two next time as the OEM stuff is really a PITA and I am not sure it is worth the effort. I am on my third OEM cooler lines in 15 years, so they last about 5 years before leaking transmission oil at the rubber hose joint(s).
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post #8 of 12 Old 08-10-2020, 08:06 AM
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You're kidding! I thought the stupid factory had cured that problem years ago.....apparently not. This issue has been around forever and I think the majority of folks have opted to cut the hoses off and install new hoses using hose clamps. Sure is a lot easier that way.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, AFE Air Filter, 6spd 545RFE, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS and HP tuners, Transgo Shift Kit, ARH Long Tube Hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads w/new valve seats, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's. Also 05 Hemi LX modded exactly like WK and Comp Cammed 06 300CSRT8.
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post #9 of 12 Old 08-10-2020, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
ashatley5
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Thanks for the information everyone. Mine are actually rusted out by the first clip just after they come out of the condenser. I have a 3.7 so I'm hoping I don't have to take the radiator and such out to replace them.
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post #10 of 12 Old 08-10-2020, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashatley5 View Post
Thanks for the information everyone. Mine are actually rusted out by the first clip just after they come out of the condenser. I have a 3.7 so I'm hoping I don't have to take the radiator and such out to replace them.
I just replaced these on a 2007 3.7l. Did not need a special tool. Used a small screwdriver to remove the spring loaded clips. Takes a few seconds on each. Figured out after the fact removal and install is easy if you remove the large plastic clips holding the lines together. The black plastic clips are reusable. With clips removed the lines easily remove or install.

Recommend you tag or mark which line is the upper and lower line before starting the job. Mark the lines at both ends before job start. I bought replacements from Rockauto. Didn't think to have a local hydraulic shop repair the old. I did remove the airbox scoop thing. Radiator stays in place.

No idea about the V8's. The 3.7l was easy once the plastic clip was temporarily removed.
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post #11 of 12 Old 08-11-2020, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
ashatley5
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Just finished replacing mine. It was definitely difficult routing the new ones through the radiator and AC lines. That took me a while.

It also stinks that the 3.7L engines don't have a transmission dip stick to check the levels.

Thanks for your help!
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post #12 of 12 Old 08-11-2020, 05:19 PM
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Yours has the Mercedes NAG1 transmission in it and, to correctly and accurately check the fluid level in yours, you'll need either a store bought universal dipstick (I have one but don't like it) or, go to Home Depot and get a 36 in. white zip tie and then, using a black magic marker, mark it in 5mm increments up to about 70-75mm. I think they come in a package of 4 or 5 for next to nothing. You'll also need a way of reading the transmission fluid temperature (Harbor Freight has infrared ones for cheap) and the "fluid level vs. fluid temperature chart" from the Factory Service Manual. I prefer the zip tie because the universal one I have is hard to read, especially with new fluid in the transmission. I change my fluid/filter on both my NAG1's every 30K so it never really gets very dirty. I also never check it between changes, once I have the level correct, unless I have a visible leak of fluid from the transmission.....never happened yet in 16 years with the NAG1 in my 05 Hemi.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, AFE Air Filter, 6spd 545RFE, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS and HP tuners, Transgo Shift Kit, ARH Long Tube Hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads w/new valve seats, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's. Also 05 Hemi LX modded exactly like WK and Comp Cammed 06 300CSRT8.
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