WK 2 inch lift with narrow 33'' tyres? Pics - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 5 Old 06-16-2021, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
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WK 2 inch lift with narrow 33'' tyres? Pics

Just getting back into jeeps after getting rid of my WJ with 5.5 inch lift and 35 inch tyres a few years ago. Loved everything about it other than the death wobble and going through CV joints every other month. So now I'm in the market for a WK. I figure a slightly smaller WK will solve both problems but I'm pretty much set on a small lift with big tyres. I've read a lot about how to squeeze 33s under a 2 inch lift but I'm struggling to find pictures, so please post some with this set up. The tyres I was looking at were 33x10.5'', as this would be a little less weight on the ball joints and would be better for the kind of off roading I'd be doing than 12.5'' wide tyres. Cutting and trimming is fine with me!

I'd love to go bigger for the lift but from what I've read it gets expensive to go above 2 inches and obviously that's when CV joints start to struggle. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm new to IFS so any advice would be great.

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post #2 of 5 Old 06-16-2021, 10:02 AM
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2006 WK 
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I'm not new to off roading, but I am new to WK's, and am going through similar analysis's. I recently installed an OME lift (MD up front, HD in the rear) and netted about 3" of lift, plus upsizing my tires from the stock 30" to 33's (285/70/17).

Here are my ride height measurements (before/after):
Front wheel arch
Left: 32.25. After: 38.0
Right: 32.25 After: 38.0

Rear wheel arch:
Left: 33 After: 37.25
Right: 33 After: 37.5

Top of front bumper: 26. After: 32.25
Bottom of hitch: 20-5/8. After: 23.25

ARB OME Components:

- Medium Duty Strut: N188S with MD Spring: 2990 
(this is the set up I have on my 2006 WK)
- Option: Heavy Duty Strut: N219S with HD Spring: 2991

- Heavy Duty Shock N190 with HD Spring: 2993

It hasn't been without issues though. In the rear, the 33" tires rub against the front portion of the fender quite a lot when articulating. I am working on trimming/rolling the fenders and extending the rear bumpstops this week to try to resolve that.

In the front, no major issues, but one side is "clunking" on downstroke, and I haven't solved that yet. Could be lower control arm bushings, could be front diff bushings, could be something else entirely. I dunno. When I did the lift, I did replace the upper control arms, but I did not use the $500 JBA extended arms, I just used cheap $100 replacement arms from O'Reily's. While I was in there, I replaced the bottom ball joint, and also the inner and outer tie-rods. Oh, the pinch weld mod is mandatory (and quite easy to do). I removed the rear swaybar, but left the front swaybar intact. If I remove the front swaybar, I do get a bit of rubbing at full lock and leaning over to one side. There's very little gain in droop with it off, so I put it back on.

I personally like pizza cutter tires, you get more force per square inch focused in the tread blocks which actually improves traction, and the increases in footprint when you air down are more dramatic and effective as well. However, for my build, I just went with what I could find on OfferUp in my area for cheap :-)

2006 Jeep WK on 33s
Offroad Photography:
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post #3 of 5 Old 06-16-2021, 12:09 PM
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Location: Portland
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Is there a common 33x10.5" tire? Looking real quick on discount tire, the only 33x10.5" tire they offer is in a 15" wheel (in Murica' at least). I believe some steel 16" wheels will fit over the brakes, but I don't believe any 15" will fit.

Because of such, I would suggest something like a 285/70r17 equals out to a 32.7"x11.2" and is a factory tire size on many rigs so stores are more likely to have them in stock and easily accessible (great for blowouts on a trip).

A couple things to consider:

The OME lift is the "proper" lift if you ask most people. You will get told anything else is junk by a lot of people. The problem I have with the OME lift (I have the OME HD lift) is, because you have the stock range of motion, it takes more work to keep the bigger tires away from things. My worn out 287/70r17's rub my strut towers when I am playing on the dunes! There is no pinch weld mod to move the strut tower out of the way. Whereas a spacer on top of the strut, pushes the bump stop down, thus keeping the wheel 2-2.5" further down out of the wheel well at full compression. This is not without other problems though. Now your suspension also droops 2-2.5" lower which is incredible strain on the cv's at full droop. Even with the OME springs with "factory travel" I tried to climb up a steep rock obstacle, it required getting the front of the jeep onto a ledge and turning sharp left to avoid another shelf straight ahead. I got the front wheels up, cranked the wheel, gave it 25% throttle - KABOOM, exploded a cv joint... these glorified minivans were never designed for that stuff.

Longer control arms in the rear will help to keep the tire out of the door and body at the front of the wheel well. I cut and sleeved mine. It's not a perfect science with the weird rectangular OD dimensions of the control arms but I made it happen. I went back 1.5" then ran into problems with the spring contacting the track bar mount. I am sure .75" would have you in a great spot and not require a bunch of additional tinkering. I believe the core 4x4 arms will get you there. I also added a hockey puck to my spring perch where the rear bump stop hits to help keep the wheel from stuffing into the body. ALSO a problem pushing the axle back 1.5"... another problem to solve.

You are right, mo lift, mo money and mo problems. You are really limited with the ifs for lift and at this point, you are stuck finding some unsold superlift in the corner of a warehouse somewhere (because they stopped making them in the last year), or find someone who ran out and bought one then realized it was more than a driveway install with basic hand tools and never installed it. Going much more than 3" is hard on everything up front and requires more regular inspection/maintenance/repair.

2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Work in progress...
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post #4 of 5 Old 06-17-2021, 11:16 AM
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2007 WK 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NY
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Agreed from everything I read, I am keeping my WK at stock height for now, it is just leveled with 5100s on the lowest setting and 245/70-17 tires.
We still have our old '98 ZJ and have an OME lift in the garage we never installed, if I get real motivated this summer after I put my boat in the water we are going to have at it. Solid axle Jeeps are just more lift friendly I think.

2017 JK Unlimited Sport 6 spd
2007 WK Limited Hemi QDII
1998 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
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post #5 of 5 Old 06-18-2021, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
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265/70r18s are a common size, which should be 33.16''. I'm happy to go with a bigger rim and the 265's should be a bit easier to squeeze in. So it should just be a bit of cutting, the pinch weld mod and potentially extending the rear control arms?

If the OME springs add about 3'', what other bits do I actually need other than shocks? Front control arms and rear trackbar and some extended bumpstops? How often do CVs go at this height?
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