What causes front suspension "clunk" on down stroke? - JeepForum.com
 4Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 21 Old 06-11-2021, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
nwoods
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 149
Garage
What causes front suspension "clunk" on down stroke?

I recently upgraded my WK's suspension with OME MD springs and struts in the front. I also replaced the upper control arms (including new bushings and ball joint), and I replaced the lower ball joint and the inner and outer tie rods for the steering, including the ball joint at the knuckle.

If I hit a speed bump, the impact is smooth and quiet, but when the front wheel drops back down, there is an audible clunk that I can hear and also feel through the steering and seat of the pants. It is ONLY coming from the passenger side. Drivers side is perfectly fine.

I have not replaced the lower control arms or bushings, but again, the clunk is only on one side, not both.
I did all the proper torque settings. I did it with the suspension in the air (unloaded), but compressed with a floor jack to be at the normal ride height setting when I torqued everything (about 23" from hub to lower rim of fender arch).

Not sure how to diagnose this further. I suppose I could take it all apart again, but I've already done that about 3 times now, and I have not made it any better. It's nice to know the other three wheels are quiet and working great! Just wish I knew how to proceed to fix this one passenger side!

Attached Thumbnails
IMG_7204.jpg   IMG_7200.jpg  

2006 Jeep WK on 33ís
HAM: KI6FPO
Offroad Photography:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwoods is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 21 Old 06-11-2021, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
nwoods
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 149
Garage
more photos
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_7199.jpg   IMG_7208.jpg  

2006 Jeep WK on 33ís
HAM: KI6FPO
Offroad Photography:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwoods is offline  
post #3 of 21 Old 06-11-2021, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
nwoods
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 149
Garage
I am considering pulling off the front sway bar just to see if that makes any audible difference

2006 Jeep WK on 33ís
HAM: KI6FPO
Offroad Photography:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwoods is offline  
 
post #4 of 21 Old 06-11-2021, 09:45 PM
HAZCAT
Registered User
 
HAZCAT's Avatar
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Joplin
Posts: 638
If you can, use a floor jack and jack that side up with the tire off the ground and release the jack quick and see if you can see what is hitting on that side. But look at the inner fenders and anything up there that can move or come in contact or things that you haven't got quite tight or in the exact right spot to line up. Especially if the new parts are bigger, longer, or fit slightly different. Also check to make sure your new springs don't have a metal tab that is turned out or in that is catching on a brake line or something.

I am having an issue with my WJ up front as the bump stops are trashed. So it can bottom out and it is loud.

'84 CJ7, 44, 14 bolt, twin stick 300, 109"whl base, 4 linked
'93 XJ
'70 CJ6 Dauntless v6
'04 WJ
HAZCAT is offline  
post #5 of 21 Old 06-11-2021, 09:47 PM
Vertisce21
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 150
It's really hard to say, honestly. Could be any number of things but it's usually a worn bushing. Only one I can see that looks overworn might be the upper bushing on the swaybar link.

What I would do is buy a GoPro or similar camera that you can use to mount somewhere under the wheel well where it won't get hit or damaged. Aim it at your suspension best you can and go wheel it a bit. Get a few of those clunks to happen and then look at the footage to see if you can find where the movement is at that's causing it. You may have to do this several times from different angles.
Vertisce21 is offline  
post #6 of 21 Old 06-13-2021, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
nwoods
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 149
Garage
Well, rules out the front sway bar as the culprit. Removed it altogether, and it still clunked on speed bumps. It’s probably the lower control arm bushings. I’m not ready to throw more money at it quite yet. Hottest week of the year and my AC decided to stop blowing cold, despite full pressure and good refrigerant and working fan clutch and pump. Grrrr.. that and a persistent P3497 cylinder deactivation system code. Just wondering how much money to keep pouring into this heep.

2006 Jeep WK on 33ís
HAM: KI6FPO
Offroad Photography:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwoods is offline  
post #7 of 21 Old 06-14-2021, 02:04 AM
underscore
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Kelowna
Posts: 2,599
When you put the struts together, did you tighten the nut down with the spring loose or with it pressing on the mount?
badgerwithhands likes this.

00 WJ
[x] 07 WK CRD/OME/MALONE 1.5 [x] 00 XJ/OME [x] 97 TJ [x] 92 YJ
underscore is offline  
post #8 of 21 Old 06-14-2021, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
nwoods
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 149
Garage
The spring height nearly exceeded the height of the strut with the top bracket on it. In order to get the top nut on, I had to push hard to compress the spring. I then used a spring compressor and cranked the spring down so that I could thread the top nut down.

My first attempt, I ran the nut down so that the threads of the strut came past it, but no further. I was advised (here online) to run that nut down as far as it will go, so I pulled it back out, attached the spring compressor and cranked the spring down until I thought it would explode, and then ran the top nut down with an impact until I couldn't get it to go any further. At that point, the length of the top of the strut stuck out through the nut about the same as the OEM strut assembly I had removed off the truck. The spring was so tightly compressed, I had difficulty removing the spring compressor!

Not sure that answers your question, but the best I can say is that I think the nut is installed as far down as it can go.

2006 Jeep WK on 33ís
HAM: KI6FPO
Offroad Photography:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwoods is offline  
post #9 of 21 Old 06-14-2021, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
nwoods
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 149
Garage
Perhaps now that there are some miles on it, I should disassemble it and try cranking that top nut down further?

2006 Jeep WK on 33ís
HAM: KI6FPO
Offroad Photography:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwoods is offline  
post #10 of 21 Old 06-14-2021, 12:01 PM
Tiki Bob
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 6
I installed a rough country 3.5" lift to my 2010 islander it was fine for at least 8 months drien multiple trips to WA state ,one day I got home and pulled into my property than backed up and heard a clunk from driver's side thought my front gears were going . tested everything , shifted fine drives perfect just that clunk.as the lower sway bar bushings are stock with only 50k miles I'm going to replace them with something more heavy duty im going to attribute it to the new height geometry will update later
Tiki Bob is offline  
post #11 of 21 Old 06-16-2021, 10:56 AM
Billbo1970
Registered User
2009 WK 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenlawn
Posts: 140
Have you checked your differential bushings? There's one front-center, one drivers side, and one passenger side. If the front bushing is worn it could appear to be coming from the passenger side, if the sound/vibration is travelling through the connections. The passenger side bushing would definitely come from that side. Or it could be both. Get under there with a bright flashlight and look.

Regards,
Bill

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Billbo1970 is offline  
post #12 of 21 Old 06-17-2021, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
nwoods
Registered User
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 149
Garage
I haven't pulled of the skids to look under there yet, but I did find a great video on how to replace those bushings... Looks like quite a job. I only have about half those tools

2006 Jeep WK on 33ís
HAM: KI6FPO
Offroad Photography:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwoods is offline  
post #13 of 21 Old 06-17-2021, 12:34 PM
Billbo1970
Registered User
2009 WK 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenlawn
Posts: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by nwoods View Post
I haven't pulled of the skids to look under there yet, but I did find a great video on how to replace those bushings... Looks like quite a job. I only have about half those tools
Like most of us, I love working on the Jeep, and done nearly all of my own work for all of the same reasons you guys probably do. But honestly, I paid to have this done... It takes quite a while to swap all 3 out, and my local guy is great. I brought him the POLY bushings, and he swapped them all out for $150. Quite the deal considering it's several hours for the driveway mechanic to do this job.

I'm having him change my struts too. I bought them already, planning to do it myself... but when I popped the hood open and couldn't see the top mounts I went on line and watched some vids... this looks like another job where the amount of time it takes isn't worth it. Leave it to Jeep to make you remove the radiator overflow & fuse relay boxes to access strut mounts!

Regards,
Bill

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Billbo1970 is offline  
post #14 of 21 Old 06-17-2021, 06:04 PM
underscore
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Kelowna
Posts: 2,599
You don't need to do all that to replace the bushings. Drive the Jeep on ramps. Unbolt the driveshaft, unhook the breather, unplug the eLSD actuator if you have QDII. Place jack stands on each side of the diff, slightly below it. Unbolt the diff, support it on the jack stands so it's not hanging by the CV's and rotate it so it's now upside down with the input facing the front of the Jeep. Cut out the old bushings, I used an air hammer and a hacksaw. Press in the new bushings, I used a balljoint press. Install is the reverse of removal.



Accessing the strut tops is like 3 bolts to get the overflow or fuse box out of the way. It takes maybe 30 seconds, it's not difficult.
acabtp likes this.

00 WJ
[x] 07 WK CRD/OME/MALONE 1.5 [x] 00 XJ/OME [x] 97 TJ [x] 92 YJ
underscore is offline  
post #15 of 21 Old 06-18-2021, 01:03 PM
Billbo1970
Registered User
2009 WK 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenlawn
Posts: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
You don't need to do all that to replace the bushings. Drive the Jeep on ramps. Unbolt the driveshaft, unhook the breather, unplug the eLSD actuator if you have QDII. Place jack stands on each side of the diff, slightly below it. Unbolt the diff, support it on the jack stands so it's not hanging by the CV's and rotate it so it's now upside down with the input facing the front of the Jeep. Cut out the old bushings, I used an air hammer and a hacksaw. Press in the new bushings, I used a balljoint press. Install is the reverse of removal.
You make this sound quick and easy, however it's still quite time consuming to get the old bushings out and press in the new ones... especially when you're in your 50's with a bum shoulder.



Quote:
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
Accessing the strut tops is like 3 bolts to get the overflow or fuse box out of the way. It takes maybe 30 seconds, it's not difficult.
Again, you make this sound quick and easy, however if you're talking a vehicle with 150k+ mileage on it, with the original struts, those strut mount bolts may not be so easy to remove. You're also neglecting to mention all of the removal that needs to be done at the wheel... again this is not a quick 1hr job to replace 2 struts. We're not all young guys here anymore LOL

Regards,
Bill

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Billbo1970 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome