Unhook ECM connector - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 09-22-2020, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
wojtek90
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Unhook ECM connector

I have to replace my ECM unit in Jeep Grand Cherokee 2007 3.0 L CRD. There two problems to start with.

First: I do not know how to unhook both connectors. I guess is typical Chrysler connector but before I will do anything I asking you guys how to safety remove them without braking anything?

Second: There are two bolts holding ECM unit they totally rusted. How can I unscrew them?
Any help appreciated.

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post #2 of 13 Old 09-22-2020, 11:09 PM
rokrau
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On your back connector move the red lever counter clockwise and the connector will loosen. Your front connector is already loose since the lever broke off or was removed by whomever added the wire. Wiggle it left to right. We Do this very careful maybe while applying some lubricant. The plastic is really brittle after all these years right under the battery.

Not sure about the bolts. Probably start with plenty of WD40.

Good luck.

--Roland, 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland, 3.0 CRD, EHM and TRD
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post #3 of 13 Old 09-23-2020, 03:55 AM Thread Starter
wojtek90
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Thank you.
Both red lever are broken or loose. Is that mean that I can gently pull out both connectors?
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post #4 of 13 Old 10-01-2020, 07:21 PM
jeeperWK1979
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Hi, I’d like to ask you if you bought a brand new ECM or were you able to find a reman? In both case where did you get it from? I’m asking because I have issues with mine too but I was about to sell my WK CRd so I am looking for a not too expensive solution. Thanks!
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post #5 of 13 Old 10-02-2020, 12:25 AM
rokrau
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wojtek90 View Post
Thank you.
Both red lever are broken or loose. Is that mean that I can gently pull out both connectors?
I haven’t taken mine off completely , I just reseated mine. but I would think that you could try gently to move them. You could use something like WD40 to make it a bit easier but I’d be careful in general. The plastic feels really brittle to me.

--Roland, 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland, 3.0 CRD, EHM and TRD
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post #6 of 13 Old 10-03-2020, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
wojtek90
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There is no cheep solution. I am in still searching. There one company STARSHIP offering plug and play module with life time warranty but they asking about $1000 US. That is too expensive for me. So i am still driving with engine on all the time. When I have really stop. then I have to disconnect battery (to reset computer) and start with no problem. I don't know how long it computer allow me to do it ( I am doing it for almost 2 month). Now I am thinking to install some kind of switch to disconnect and connect battery.
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post #7 of 13 Old 10-03-2020, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
wojtek90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpmo View Post
Hi, Id like to ask you if you bought a brand new ECM or were you able to find a reman? In both case where did you get it from? Im asking because I have issues with mine too but I was about to sell my WK CRd so I am looking for a not too expensive solution. Thanks!
I was able to disconnect first one (shorter), but it looks like the longer one is locked and I do not have red lever I will try to use the smaller red lever to unlock connector and pull it off.
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post #8 of 13 Old 10-03-2020, 08:50 PM
SteveROntario
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Have you gone through the full diagnostics of the codes to be certain it is the computer and not wiring harness?
My van has a big knife switch on the battery positive so that I can disconnect it when in storage.
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2013 Civic, 2009 Suzuki DRZ-400SM, 2008.5 Grand Cherokee CRD, 1991 Dodge B250, 1934 Hupmobile 417W
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post #9 of 13 Old 10-04-2020, 12:49 AM
rokrau
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So, do the gas powered WKs have the same module?
If so, I bet they have the same hardware and could be reflashed for much cheaper.
However. I am with others here on this forum: inside this box sits an embedded computer. They don’t stop working half way. They either break or not. If it was broken then your car will never run well. It will only ever run in limp mode or maybe not at all.
It is much more likely that the computer gets faulty sensor reading. That wire harness coming into the back connector runs right by the AC line where it gets hot and the insulation melts. Then one or more wires shorten out leading to all kinds of weird behavior. Follow the harness towards the back of the engine. If necessary take out the fuse boxes to see where it’s coming from.

--Roland, 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland, 3.0 CRD, EHM and TRD
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post #10 of 13 Old 10-04-2020, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
wojtek90
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Can you please show me a picture of this switch or send me info about it so I can install it in my Jeep.
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post #11 of 13 Old 10-04-2020, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
wojtek90
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If this would be a case then why is working perfectly on " one turn of the engine only" ? Every time I am resetting computer by disconnecting battery working fine ,but if I don't it showing hole bunch of code including not charging battery. I already burn alternator so i don't won't do it again.
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post #12 of 13 Old 10-04-2020, 07:02 PM
SteveROntario
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https://www.wirthco.com/battery-doct...blade-switches

This one is in Brass and has a top switch, other ones have side switches. There are ones in copper and you can get them with other connectors such as GM & Stud.

You will want to see if you have enough height for it.
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2013 Civic, 2009 Suzuki DRZ-400SM, 2008.5 Grand Cherokee CRD, 1991 Dodge B250, 1934 Hupmobile 417W
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post #13 of 13 Old 10-08-2020, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
wojtek90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveROntario View Post
https://www.wirthco.com/battery-doct...blade-switches

This one is in Brass and has a top switch, other ones have side switches. There are ones in copper and you can get them with other connectors such as GM & Stud.

You will want to see if you have enough height for it.
thank you.
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