Tapping / clunking noise from rear end - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 11 Old 03-27-2019, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
UKJeephemi
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Tapping / clunking noise from rear end

Hello all, I'm the owner of a UK model 5.7 Hemi WH/WK with quadradrive 2. Has anyone had intermittant barely audible tapping / clunking noise from rear end? Its just an annoying vibration that you can feel through the parking brake handle. Just started this year at 103,000 miles. It tends to be worse until the drivetrain has warmed up a bit say after 15 miles. Goes faster with speed of vehicle, not revs of engine. Then it goes away.

Worse when very cold, sounded ELSD diff related maybe, I've been told it could be the "actuator solenoid" being siezed. Any thoughts? Done that put a new solenoid in and loom, did a diff clean-up and fluid change with MOPAR additive. Its a little better, but the clunking still comes and goes. Any more ideas please? I've also replaced the parking brake shoes and cables. Checked for warped rear discs and wheel bearings.

All my thoughts are towards the main prop shaft now, but it seems tight and does not clunk around. Got 2" lift and 32"s


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post #2 of 11 Old 03-27-2019, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UKJeephemi View Post
Hello all, I'm the owner of a UK model 5.7 Hemi WH/WK with quadradrive 2. Has anyone had intermittant barely audible tapping / clunking noise from rear end? Its just an annoying vibration that you can feel through the parking brake handle. Just started this year at 103,000 miles. It tends to be worse until the drivetrain has warmed up a bit say after 15 miles. Goes faster with speed of vehicle, not revs of engine. Then it goes away.

Worse when very cold, sounded ELSD diff related maybe, I've been told it could be the "actuator solenoid" being siezed. Any thoughts? Done that put a new solenoid in and loom, did a diff clean-up and fluid change with MOPAR additive. Its a little better, but the clunking still comes and goes. Any more ideas please? I've also replaced the parking brake shoes and cables. Checked for warped rear discs and wheel bearings.

All my thoughts are towards the main prop shaft now, but it seems tight and does not clunk around. Got 2" lift and 32"s
Drive shaft spins 3.7 x faster then wheels so tick sounds usually turn into drones or whine sounds at higher speeds. Sounds to me like one of the hub assemblies might be going. Sometimes they make a humming noise on the highway when going around opposite curves and sometimes you can get the wheel off the ground and grab both sides and make it move a little.
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post #3 of 11 Old 03-27-2019, 06:16 PM
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How was the fluid coming out of the diff? Any crud? Any metal that could be felt by hand? What had to be cleaned up from it? Have you checked the fluid level after servicing it?

CJ5 we don't talk about, 58 Willys CJ-3B gone
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-14-2019, 03:11 AM Thread Starter
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The fluid was a bit gunked up, a few but not excessive metal bits, as you may expect from 14 years of never cleaned or changed oil. The wiring connector for the solenoid had crushed pins, but as I said the problem is still there. My friend was with me a couple of nights ago sitting in the passenger seat UK so wrong side for you, we drove from a cold start and the noise was evident, he said he felt it under his feet. On checking underneath the front drive shaft is in the area. So maybe a CV joint from the front driveshaft.

What parts should I replace next?

I will do the front ELSD solenoid and oil change as well.

Kind of a process of elimination really.

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post #5 of 11 Old 04-14-2019, 03:19 AM Thread Starter
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plus there is a tiny bit of play at the transfer box end when you try to shake the front drive shaft, is that the CV joint?

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post #6 of 11 Old 04-14-2019, 06:32 AM
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I believe some rotational play is the only acceptable play in these driveshafts. Some other models can have for/aft play, not 100% sure on these, especially an export. Radial play is not good. So yes, likely the CV. How is the boot? If it's torn (or mostly missing seems to be the norm when they go), then it's bad. You can rebuilt it yourself if you can get a kit there. I'm going to look for a recent thread where we have some pics of torn and new boots. It's oddly hard to see a torn CV boot until you've seen one... it will look weird but not torn like an axle shaft boot, because it's more gone than torn.

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post #7 of 11 Old 04-14-2019, 06:43 AM
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https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/...tions-4349751/


BTW: in my early 20's I used to drive a right hand drive Toyota Corona in the Philippines where they drive on the right side of the road. That was fun. They didn't even have safety glass. Or anything else safe. I got rear ended by a bus in that thing.

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post #8 of 11 Old 04-14-2019, 06:50 AM
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Post 7 on the link I posted above has links to repair kits where you can see a good boot.



There's another pic in this thread https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/...ached-4348289/


The boot is clamped onto the shaft on the drive shaft end, but is molded onto a cup shapes part in the CV. The molding breaks, then it waddles around and it shreds and goes away. Then it leaves behind mostly the rubber under the clamp. It can look almost like someone clamped a bit of radiator hose on it.

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post #9 of 11 Old 04-18-2019, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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My front propshaft, transfer case end

Here it is.

I've seen many people complain about CV joint repairs being weak and only lasting 5000 miles on lifted WK Jeeps, my one is 2" OME and 32" tyres.

Would you advise an upgrade here with a custom build from Tom Woods at $469 for my Propshaft at the front? FLANGED CONVENTIONAL DOUBLE CARDAN to replace my stock OE one with has a Rezeppa which is worn.

against a $48 repair kit. Both would need propshaft to be removed so a few hours labour.

Thanks


Laurence
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Front-propshaft-WK-1024x576.jpg   Front-propshaft-WK-1024x576b.jpg  

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post #10 of 11 Old 04-18-2019, 06:50 PM
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Looks like she has not let go of her grease, but still could be worn out.



There is a Tom Woods rep on this forum. I linked his response to when the DC is needed. I can't find it, didn't bookmark it, but if you can handle mulling through my ramblings, you might be able to find that with a search. Or contact them. He seemed straight up, essentially said the guy didn't need a DC, but I don't recall the lift or other circumstances.



I have not repaired the CV/driveshaft on a WK, but I did the same exact CV on a WJ and it lasted several years before it was totaled out. No lift. IDK if people get a hold of bad kits, don't do it right, or the WK is allergic to CV's. IME CV's are an easier repair than a u-joint. U-joints can be easy, or can be a real PITA.


I feel a DC from TW will not need a rebuild for a very, very, long time.



These are just opinions based on general experience more than WK experience. I think we have some solid jeepers here, most of the regular responders. Solid jeepers know how to fix stuff.

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post #11 of 11 Old Yesterday, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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OK thats great news, I'm going down the CV rebuild route, with that repair, I can measure up the propshaft just in case I decide to go DOUBLE CARDAN at a later date. Thanks for your valuable insights.
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