Replace Fuel Injector Seal Step by Step - CRD - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
 25Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #31 of 63 Old 02-23-2018, 09:23 PM
sampuppy1
Registered User
1936 CJ2A 
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Wayland
Posts: 105
Having same issue. Right front injector. Looking to clean up the black death goop before pulling the injector. Thanks for this info!

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

Tyler/T-Unit

sampuppy1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 63 Old 02-28-2018, 08:46 PM
sampuppy1
Registered User
1936 CJ2A 
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Wayland
Posts: 105
I tackled this today. The wife's has probably been leaking long before we got it. The right front was leaking, it filled the entire valley up around it. It also ran down towards the rear of the valve cover making it appear the middle was leaking as well. I removed both, chipped and vacuumed over an inch of the black cruddy garbage out from around both injectors. The middle was not leaking but I decided to put a new seal on anyways since I already had it out.

Both injectors took a bit of gentle, calculated convincing to be removed but by God they came out by hand. One was covered in silver anti seize which was the silvery crud I saw in the black death and was concerned about it being aluminum dust from loose bolts/parts causing friction wear. I've never been so happy to find anti-seize where it shouldn't be.

I did not realize I need new bolts so I'll be ordering 6 of them as well. For now I'll just keep what's there until they come in.

For being a Mercedes power plant I was pleased to find how easy these things are to mess with. Seems that most of these parts are easily accessible and not much more than some patience, common sense, and a gentle hand are required to figure out most of this job.

Hopefully these seals last a good long time. I know where to get more if needed. They weren't expensive from the dealer that's just down the road from me. I'm happy so far.

Back to getting this thing battened back down and put back together.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

Tyler/T-Unit
sampuppy1 is offline  
post #33 of 63 Old 02-28-2018, 10:53 PM
sampuppy1
Registered User
1936 CJ2A 
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Wayland
Posts: 105
Also for anyone looking for the return line o-ring...... Here's the part number.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

Tyler/T-Unit
sampuppy1 is offline  
 
post #34 of 63 Old 02-28-2018, 11:01 PM
underscore
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Kelowna
Posts: 2,109
That anti-sieze may be Mercedes "special" grease for diesel injectors, I don't know what colour it is though. IDParts doesn't list it for the WK but it is listed for other OM642-engined vehicles so a previous mechanic may have put it on there.

07 WK CRD//QDII//OME MD//MALONE 1.5//OMG WTF BBQ
underscore is offline  
post #35 of 63 Old 02-28-2018, 11:50 PM
sampuppy1
Registered User
1936 CJ2A 
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Wayland
Posts: 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
That anti-sieze may be Mercedes "special" grease for diesel injectors, I don't know what colour it is though. IDParts doesn't list it for the WK but it is listed for other OM642-engined vehicles so a previous mechanic may have put it on there.
Probably what it is then. I pulled injectors 1 and 2. 1 had nothing but black death. 2 had the anti seize. From the appearance and how it acts, that grease is likely just rebranded and packaged silver Permatex anti-seize. Without a proper means of analysis, that's my guess. Doesn't seem to have made a difference. Both injectors felt to have required the same amount of force to remove. And the anti-seize was a pain in the rear to try and suck out of the injector hole. I had to get creative to ensure that I would get a proper seal when the injector went back in.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

Tyler/T-Unit
sampuppy1 is offline  
post #36 of 63 Old 05-16-2018, 11:22 PM
underscore
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Kelowna
Posts: 2,109
Has anyone done the left hand side rearmost injector? The wiring harness right on top looks like it's gonna be a hassle and I can't figure out how to get it out of the way.

07 WK CRD//QDII//OME MD//MALONE 1.5//OMG WTF BBQ
underscore is offline  
post #37 of 63 Old 05-21-2018, 06:26 PM
underscore
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Kelowna
Posts: 2,109
Well I had the worst possible thing happen, while torquing down the bolts the first one I tried snapped off flush with the head. I wasn't even at the torque spec yet, and the washer didn't look like the old ones did so I don't think I even crushed it before it snapped. I'm going to see what the local Sprinter shop will charge to fix it before attempting much myself but I have a feeling it'll be pricey. Does anyone know of a way to delete the stupid torque to yield bolts and use normal bolts?

07 WK CRD//QDII//OME MD//MALONE 1.5//OMG WTF BBQ
underscore is offline  
post #38 of 63 Old 05-23-2018, 05:41 PM
underscore
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Kelowna
Posts: 2,109
I came across this while searching for fixes, I wish I'd read about it before as I would've gone straight to this and ditched the stock design. https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads/...e-sert.169126/


The inserts let you use normal bolts instead of the stretch bolts. I booked it into the shop to get the broken bolt fixed and then I'll be ordering the Time-Sert kit so that if I ever have to remove an injector again I can swap to normal bolts and not have to deal with this crap

07 WK CRD//QDII//OME MD//MALONE 1.5//OMG WTF BBQ
underscore is offline  
post #39 of 63 Old 05-23-2018, 08:17 PM
SteveROntario
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Ottawa Valley
Posts: 881
Quote:
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
Well I had the worst possible thing happen, while torquing down the bolts the first one I tried snapped off flush with the head. I wasn't even at the torque spec yet, and the washer didn't look like the old ones did so I don't think I even crushed it before it snapped. I'm going to see what the local Sprinter shop will charge to fix it before attempting much myself but I have a feeling it'll be pricey. Does anyone know of a way to delete the stupid torque to yield bolts and use normal bolts?

Rats, what brand parts were you using? Did you test your torque wrench on something before tightening the bolt? I like to test them when set to low values so that I can know what it will sound like when I get to the value. Sometimes you just barely feel it, sometimes you get a click.
Chirpz likes this.

2013 Civic, 2009 Suzuki DRZ-400SM, 2008.5 Grand Cherokee CRD, 1991 Dodge B250, 1934 Hupmobile 417W
SteveROntario is offline  
post #40 of 63 Old 05-23-2018, 11:28 PM
underscore
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Kelowna
Posts: 2,109
I got the kit from IDParts somebody on here suggested. I didn't test the wrench, I probably should have but I don't think I even got close to the spec before it failed. It could have been user error, or a defective bolt, or a bad tool, or a combination. With the kind of luck I've had with this Jeep an injector will die shortly after replacing the seals, and since by all accounts there's a fine line between reaching the torque spec and snapping a bolt in the head I don't think I'd be brave enough to hope to get all 6 right next time. Maybe I'm just annoyed the bolt broke but I don't see a benefit to sticking with the stretch bolts and taking this risk (along with the risk of punching into the head with the slightest bit of debris) when an extra ~$100 looks to make it a permanent non-issue.
badgerwithhands likes this.

07 WK CRD//QDII//OME MD//MALONE 1.5//OMG WTF BBQ
underscore is offline  
post #41 of 63 Old 05-24-2018, 10:24 PM
gcjeepjames
Registered User
2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
Well I had the worst possible thing happen, while torquing down the bolts the first one I tried snapped off flush with the head. I wasn't even at the torque spec yet, and the washer didn't look like the old ones did so I don't think I even crushed it before it snapped. I'm going to see what the local Sprinter shop will charge to fix it before attempting much myself but I have a feeling it'll be pricey. Does anyone know of a way to delete the stupid torque to yield bolts and use normal bolts?
Damn, that sucks.

Cleaned my engine bay today which was covered in mud, took my foam covers off and that's when I noticed I had a TON of this black goo crap on my #5 cyl. Gonna call the dealer to see if they have the parts (for a reasonable price, at that) otherwise order the kit...

Thanks for the writeup Chirpz.
gcjeepjames is offline  
post #42 of 63 Old 05-25-2018, 08:37 AM
badgerwithhands
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 807
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcjeepjames View Post
Damn, that sucks.

Cleaned my engine bay today which was covered in mud, took my foam covers off and that's when I noticed I had a TON of this black goo crap on my #5 cyl. Gonna call the dealer to see if they have the parts (for a reasonable price, at that) otherwise order the kit...

Thanks for the writeup Chirpz.
idparts.com or some other euro type supplier would be way cheaper and guaranteed to be the correct parts. Most dealers don't even know these exist.
underscore likes this.

07 WK Overland CRD, cargo LEDs, OME HD, MOPAR skids, rack,
future mods: tires, lights, CB, skids,
badgerwithhands is offline  
post #43 of 63 Old 05-25-2018, 03:29 PM
underscore
Registered User
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Kelowna
Posts: 2,109
I spoke to the guys at the shop when the tow truck dropped it off, apparently if they can't get the bolt out they'd need to pull the head and send it to a machine shop which would end up being a $4-5k job by the time everything is done. I'd never go for that option but yikes.


One idea I thought of (again too late) would be to buy an extra bolt, get an M6x1.0 nut (or threaded tube if you can find it) and torque it to 7nm/62 in*lbs with a stack of washers or something in between. Then keep tightening it until it fails to see how much wiggle room you've got with a given torque wrench.

07 WK CRD//QDII//OME MD//MALONE 1.5//OMG WTF BBQ
underscore is offline  
post #44 of 63 Old 05-25-2018, 04:59 PM
DukeLucan
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Newport
Posts: 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirpz View Post
.....
1. Remove anything that is in the way of the work area.... in this case there was nothing in the way.
2. Remove the Torx bolt that holds the injector down.
3. Start the engine and let it run at a fast idle until engine compression blows the injector loose. Don't worry it won't go flying.
....
So why doesn't the injector go flying, or at least try to, maybe wrecking anything still connected to it (as also on Slide 21 of the How-to)? Sounds like it would make a compressed air gun
DukeLucan is offline  
post #45 of 63 Old 05-25-2018, 07:01 PM
Tango.
Registered User
2008  
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,195
Quote:
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
I spoke to the guys at the shop when the tow truck dropped it off, apparently if they can't get the bolt out they'd need to pull the head and send it to a machine shop which would end up being a $4-5k job by the time everything is done. I'd never go for that option but yikes.


One idea I thought of (again too late) would be to buy an extra bolt, get an M6x1.0 nut (or threaded tube if you can find it) and torque it to 7nm/62 in*lbs with a stack of washers or something in between. Then keep tightening it until it fails to see how much wiggle room you've got with a given torque wrench.
If they can't get the bolt, and it was mine I would take it to some other shop that could.

Those bolts usually snap when there is some junk down in the bolt hole. The bolt bottoms out and it snaps. That is why it's important to clean out the holes and threads.

Life is hard-John Wayne
Tango. is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome