parking brake help! - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 09-07-2017, 06:03 AM Thread Starter
nerk
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2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Belle River
Posts: 26
parking brake help!

This is my first time attempting to replace the parking brake and holy crap what have I got myself into...

I finally managed to get all the springs and clips in place on my drivers side, so decided to give it a test and cranked up the hand brake...

Only to find out the cable wasn't attached to anything, so now its stuck in the little hole and I can seem to find a way to grab it with pliers or anything and pull it back through...

I read on the forum somewhere the leveler is under the back seat,.. so i managed to get the back seat out yesterday and found it... and the thing was all lob sided so I unhooked both cables, but can't push the cable through from that end either....

I'm at a stand still on this brake job from hell...

other things that have gone wrong:
  • 3 out of 4 rotors were seized on: took lots hammering and WD40 soaked overnight before they could be free'd.
  • caliper bolt on the passenger front was seized in the pin and snapped, new bolts and pins, front and back ordered with rubber boots
  • caliper pin on the driver side is stuck in the bracket, new bracket ordered

Thanks,

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post #2 of 5 Old 09-07-2017, 03:15 PM
DukeLucan
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Newport
Posts: 43
If you cannot get hold of the end of the brake cable (long-nose pliers?) then you might need to take the half-shaft out complete with hub, backing plate, and brake cable and sort it all out. The handbrake cable will need releasing at the front end, and the anti-roll bar must be released from the axle to free it - they don't make it easy.

I find re-assembling the rear brakes is a swine, but it should not need doing very often. The front return spring is very strong and needs to be stretched ~20mm to get it into the holes in the shoe. The workshop manual says use needle-nosed pliers, but any pliers thin enough to get into the space would be too weak to do the job, I reckon, and you would need hands like the Terminator's too. It does not help that the handbrake cable inner relaxes back and thus holds the equaliser mechanism at maximum expansion like the brake is full on.

This is my method : First I fit the equaliser mechanism, hooked over the cable eye (and watch that it stays that way). Then fit up both shoes held roughly in place with their backplate spring retainers, the front ends on the equaliser and the rear ends free FTTB and as close to each other as possible. Then I hook the lower end of the front return spring (the strong one) into the lower shoe at which point its upper hook is about 20mm short of its hole in the upper shoe. I then lever the upper hook upwards with a large (say 15" long) flat-head screwdriver with its handle to rear, levering against tone wheel (on its un-toothed part). The trick is that I have ground a small notch in the side of the screwdriver blade to prevent the spring from slipping off. This notch needs to be only 1-2mm across and deep, and ~2 mm from the tip of the screwdriver. This gets the hook up to the hole but you then need a second smaller screwdriver to push and lever the hook into the hole fully.

Once the forward spring is in, the rest is easy. The adjuster goes easily between the rear ends of the shoes if you fully screw it back, and the softer spring across it can almost be put in by hand

I had worried that levering against the tone wheel might damage it, but it seems to be a solid chunk of aluminium. I don't know why these brakes had to be so difficult to service. I have worked on many drum brakes and never met one so difficult to get the shoes in as the WK.

Regarding the rear rotors stuck to the half-shaft flanges : because the parking brake shoes should never wear down, not many people therefore bother to take the rotors off to inspect them during a service. So they rust on. I had to take both my half shafts with hubs and rotors right out (see above). I heated the rotors around the centre with a blowlamp until too hot to touch, then quickly stood them upright on the wheel studs on a hard wood block on a concrete floor, and hammered (copper hammer) on the back of the drum/disk through the cut-out where the disk calipers go, turning it to minimise bearing damage.

The moral is that you should take the drums off every service, and replace with a smear of grease over the mating surface to keep them sweet.

Last edited by DukeLucan; 09-09-2017 at 01:33 PM.
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post #3 of 5 Old 09-08-2017, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
nerk
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2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Belle River
Posts: 26
good tips and advice!

I have a long set of angled needle nose pliers (had to buy it to remove the transmission conductor board plug) that I managed to get the spring on, but it was definately not easy... almost needed a third hand in there somewhere... I also think maybe what I've been doing wrong, after reading your steps, is that I was setting the adjuster and rear spring before I moved to the harder front spring...

I've attached a couple photo's to show my parking brake cables (see how one is longer than the other) and the whole that it snuck itself back in... I can't seem to find any tool that can fit in there to pull it back out cause the hub's in the way...

Is there an easy way to detach the cable from the back side of the backing plate? I'm not sure how it comes off...

Thanks
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post #4 of 5 Old 09-09-2017, 01:54 PM
DukeLucan
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Newport
Posts: 43
Sorry I can't see your pictures - seems I cannot see or post pics until I have at least 10 verbal posts. Never mind that I was a member from years back but somehow one day recently my password would not work and I had to re-register

Sounds like the equaliser where the two rear cables split from the single handbrake front cable has become seriously unbalanced. I don't really understand why you cannot get hold of the eye at the end of the brake cable inner. The eye is too big to dissappear back into the cable outer sleeve; they are just Bowden cables. Are you sure that the cable outer is close up to the brake backing plate? I cannot remember if the Bowden outer sheath of the cable is fixed to the brake backing plate or is free to float inboard away from it. I would check that. Also you could release the cable inner from the equaliser ("leveller" in your first post) and push-pull it by hand to check it is free moving. You should be able to do this or maybe the cable is seized.
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post #5 of 5 Old 09-10-2017, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
nerk
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2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Belle River
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by DukeLucan View Post
Sorry I can't see your pictures - seems I cannot see or post pics until I have at least 10 verbal posts. Never mind that I was a member from years back but somehow one day recently my password would not work and I had to re-register
Two more posts!

and yes you're right, the equalizer was well... not equal...

I went to canadian tire and bought a pick tool set that gave me the reach to get back there and pull the cable out from the hole... stupid me, I did the other side, thinking I had it all done yanked the parking brake again and same thing... only this time it was so far in and stuck on something that the pick tool set couldn't get it back...

So I used an old clothes hanger and bent it to shape and was able to really give it a good tug and it came out.

I also got fed up with the new springs, and if I put them side by side, they were a little shorter even... So I just used the old springs.,, they seem to work fine...

at least its done now... just need to finish up the pads and rotors this morning and I'm done! Easy Peasy! What else could go wrong?!
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brakes , parking brake , parking brake cable

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