P73 Recall Experience - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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post #91 of 302 Old 07-14-2015, 02:08 PM
HEMI35
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so, FCA gave up again when they realized p73 doesn't work either?? I told you it was a bot lol


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post #92 of 302 Old 07-15-2015, 02:41 PM
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Worked just fine for our Jeep. Just sayin'.

Our 4Low went out about a month after the N23 flash was done. It went back to working just fine again after the P73 was done. Been checking it periodically as well to make sure.

The N23 isn't the only thing in the world that could make your 4Low go out obviously. For some people it's bound to be coincidental.

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post #93 of 302 Old 07-17-2015, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by suzq044 View Post
Worked just fine for our Jeep. Just sayin'.

Our 4Low went out about a month after the N23 flash was done. It went back to working just fine again after the P73 was done. Been checking it periodically as well to make sure.

The N23 isn't the only thing in the world that could make your 4Low go out obviously. For some people it's bound to be coincidental.

Yeah, as I stated earlier in the thread, my 4lo is working perfect now after the P73 flash. The strangest thing about this whole deal though is that the notice I got said I needed N23 done, when I took it to the dealership, they said it had been done previously. I know FOR A FACT that it was never done. The interesting this is, I had all the symptoms of a post N23 Jeep, but once I got the P73 flash, everything was perfect.

I know there is a lot of butt hurt around here about FCA and the N23, but they got this right, at least for my jeep.
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post #94 of 302 Old 07-18-2015, 03:11 PM
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Solution - N245 Shift Motor

Hi this is my first post on this forum. I had been haunted with problems with this shift motor. I am on my third motor and second FDCM. I have spent many hours trouble shooting this problem and here is what I discovered:
The position sensor was sending an erratic signal to the FDCM and it interpreted it and produced a code that forced the transfer case into 4WH only. The N23 recall forced the 4WH condition and locked the case into 4WH rather than allow a signal that would allow a neutral shift condition. The P73 recall loosened some of the output conditions.
The problem that I found was in the feedback sensor and was a broken printed circuit board foil at the point at which the leads were soldered on. With a simple printed circuit board repair, the transfer case has worked flawlessly ever since. I don't get the strange lockup condition noted in many posts and my gas mileage has improved. I don't get error codes or is the transfer case forced into 4WH. It is a different Jeep. I have more to say but this should start things off! The material cost was approximately $ 0.15 if you have the tools and took about 2 hours.
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Last edited by JeepBrian; 07-18-2015 at 03:34 PM.
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post #95 of 302 Old 07-18-2015, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepBrian
Hi this is my first post on this forum. I had been haunted with problems with this shift motor. I am on my third motor and second FDCM. I have spent many hours trouble shooting this problem and here is what I discovered: The position sensor was sending an erratic signal to the FDCM and it interpreted it and produced a code that forced the transfer case into 4WH only. The N23 recall forced the 4WH condition and locked the case into 4WH rather than allow a signal that would allow a neutral shift condition. The P73 recall loosened some of the output conditions. The problem that I found was in the feedback sensor and was a broken printed circuit board foil at the point at which the leads were soldered on. With a simple printed circuit board repair, the transfer case has worked flawlessly ever since. I don't get the strange lockup condition noted in many posts and my gas mileage has improved. I don't get error codes or is the transfer case forced into 4WH. It is a different Jeep. I have more to say but this should start things off! The material cost was approximately $ 0.15 if you have the tools and took about 2 hours.
It can't be this simple!! FCA's high paid techs couldn't figure this out!? All this bs back and forth, this fix and that, never solving a simple solder point or circuit board repair?? Wow man, kudos, and thank you! This should save a lot of future frustration.

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post #96 of 302 Old 07-18-2015, 05:42 PM
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Yes, think about it! There are 250,000 vehicles out there with this potential problem. At the dealer say $1000.00 per fix; that doesn't fix. That's 250,000 X $1000.00 = $250 Million. An aftermarket company should get on a replacement sensor with the flaw corrected; would make them a lot of money. The sensor is a 5 minute change in the shift motor but you have to buy the whole shift motor. The sensors cannot cost more than $5.00 each to mass produce. The sensor is a simple potentiometer.
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post #97 of 302 Old 07-18-2015, 07:20 PM
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Yes, think about it! There are 250,000 vehicles out there with this potential problem. At the dealer say $1000.00 per fix; that doesn't fix. That's 250,000 X $1000.00 = $250 Million. An aftermarket company should get on a replacement sensor with the flaw corrected; would make them a lot of money. The sensor is a 5 minute change in the shift motor but you have to buy the whole shift motor. The sensors cannot cost more than $5.00 each to mass produce. The sensor is a simple potentiometer.
Gotta say I had to look twice at this post, I didn't look like anything I posted but the name was very familiar! Lol

Great write up, I hope it's this easy.

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post #98 of 302 Old 07-19-2015, 11:01 AM
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Well done..... And time will tell....

Jeep Engineers - What a bunch of Dummies............

Now when will they come out with the fix to reverse the P73..??

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post #99 of 302 Old 07-19-2015, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepBrian View Post
The problem that I found was in the feedback sensor and was a broken printed circuit board foil at the point at which the leads were soldered on. With a simple printed circuit board repair, the transfer case has worked flawlessly
If I'm not mistaken, this is what triggered the recall/flash to begin with. FCA need to put in quality boards as a recall fix, not a f***'n software flash!!!

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post #100 of 302 Old 07-19-2015, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JeepBrian View Post
The problem that I found was in the feedback sensor and was a broken printed circuit board foil at the point at which the leads were soldered on.
Where is the feedback sensor again? easily removable/reinstalled by a backyard mechanic?

So the N23 recall and P73 recall are "simply" firmware updates to detect this failure in the feedback sensor? The failed/failure of this feedback sensor would allow the vehicle to slip into neutral?
If all this is true, it seems odd that the fix is to change the parameters in the firmware to detect the broken printed circuit board. It would make more sense to me to have a fix that makes a better printed circuit board that does not break so frequently.

Imagine if your exhaust system was leaking into the cabin of the vehicle and the "recall" was not to correct the exhaust system, but instead install a better sensor to detect the exhaust leak.

Seems like Sergio should be called before the NTSB and get another lecture on how to properly execute a repair/recall.

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post #101 of 302 Old 07-19-2015, 10:22 PM
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-Removal of sensor:
-Have the dealer do the P73 recall.
-Disconnect battery.
-Remove shift motor from vehicle.
-Remove two screws that attach the electrical receptacle on the shift motor.
-Pull out the receptacle to expose the wiring.
-Note the position of the grey, brown, and green wires in the receptacle.
-Detach the pins connected to the grey, brown, and green wires; push suitable tool into pin cavity from the pin side of the receptacle and pull on wire at same time.
-Remove the gasket on the drive end of the shift motor.
-Pry out and remove the sensor and wiring.
-With an ohmmeter check for discontinuities in operation; wiggle test and move sensor while measuring resistances.
-If this is the problem continue.
-Pop apart the sensor.
-Remove solder from wire connections; used solder wick.
-Inspect for damaged foil on the board.
-Repair damage and resolder connections.
-Follow procedure for repair or have it done by someone with the skills.
-Repair broken foil with bus wire or lead snipped off a small resistor. Curl the wire around the wire connection and solder to wire and foil.
-Resolder other connections; all should appear bright and shiny.
-Clean out residual flux with isopropyl alcohol and dry.
-For mechanical integrity a layer of epoxy could be applied over the three joints. I didn’t but time will tell.
-Reassemble sensor.
-With an ohmmeter check for discontinuities in operation as above.
-If problem is resolved reassemble; locking tabs on receptacle pins may have to be bent back up to lock properly.
-Once the shift motor is back in the Jeep, reconnect battery and clear codes.
-Test operation and drive away.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Wiring_01.pdf (167.2 KB, 89 views)
File Type: pdf Sensor_Schematic_01.pdf (22.0 KB, 80 views)
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post #102 of 302 Old 07-20-2015, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
northerngood
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Excellent write up JeepBrian! Thank you for this information, this should be a new write up article on how to fix no 4-low issues!

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post #103 of 302 Old 07-20-2015, 10:00 AM
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The sensor is integral to the shift motor assembly, so a new shift motor would solve this every time. Are you saying the sensors are faulty in new shift motors?

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post #104 of 302 Old 07-20-2015, 11:54 AM
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Yes! From what I have seen there is a weakness at the connection point between PC board and the attachment wires. As far as I know there is no part number change and I would expect no improvement in the sensor; unless they are doing the GM ignition switch thing and have modified the design without showing it in a new part number. Yes the sensor is in the drive end of the motor and removal of the assembly is required; 5 minutes. Removing the sensor from the assembly should be another 5 minutes.
This is not to say that there could be other failures.
A cold solder joint or broken PC board foil is insidious. Temperature, moisture, or vibration can trigger a high or variable resistance at the failure point causing the symptoms noted in many forums. The joint can stay with a normal good contact and then randomly go high resistance creating problems as seen.
I also noticed that the solder connections had a dull crystalline look. This is usually a sign of a cold joint, too much heat, or the wrong solder. I removed it with wick and resoldered properly. My joints, although not great; are acceptable.
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post #105 of 302 Old 07-20-2015, 12:32 PM
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Definitely looks like cold soldering. That's just ridiculous! Hopefully the right people are reading this...........

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