P0299 code, but no boost leak? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 09-26-2018, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
Hendrix9
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P0299 code, but no boost leak?

Hey guys. Been having all kinds of crap going on with my CRD lately. I thought my turbo actuator was going out so I got a replacement, and it worked for a few days then on a WOT run up a steep hill i heard a loud POP and then limp mode. I pulled over and expected to see a blown intercooler hose. No such luck.

I did some troubleshooting and discovered the kidney bean silencer had a couple of broken mounting points so I figured it must be broken somewhere causing a massive boost leak. I removed it and examined it and didn't really see anything faulty. I replaced it with the CAT hose just to be sure. Still keeps going into limp mode.

Today I just pressurized the cold side with a 2" fernco with a bolt in valve steam on the turbo inlet and used a regulator at about 15psi. Used leak detector fluid all over the freaking place and didn't find any leaks. I did notice the crank case breather tube obviously leaking some air out of it, but that was it. Decided to reload my tune and give it a try anyways. I threw it in reverse and powerbraked it, got to about 10PSI with more RPM that should have been necessary I think and I heard a small pop and then went into limp mode.

I don't even know where to go from here. I'm pretty confident the cold side is intact based on my pressure test.

-could my turbo hot side gaskets be failing causing it to spool up the turbo slower than the computer thinks causing a low boost code?
-could the crank case breather be dramatically popping open venting boost into the intake freaking the computer out and throwing a low boost code? I'm kind of leaning this direction but anyone have any thoughts? This is the next easiest thing to try and only around $100.


2007 CRD QDII
2004 QD 4.7 GC
2009 Rav4 v6
2009 Sienna
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post #2 of 17 Old 09-26-2018, 04:24 PM
Chirpz
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Somebody has to ask.....
Where did you get your turbo actuator? Was it new or rebuilt? Could you have possibly received a bum one? Have you double checked the plug to make sure the TA is really fully plugged in?

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2007 WK CRD, Quadradrive II, OEM Tow Hitch, GDE EcoTune, DPF-Delete, 4xGuard Front, Rear, Belly Guards, Side Rails & Full Matrix, OEM Skids, EHM, Dash Duck.
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post #3 of 17 Old 09-27-2018, 03:19 AM Thread Starter
Hendrix9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirpz View Post
Somebody has to ask.....
Where did you get your turbo actuator? Was it new or rebuilt? Could you have possibly received a bum one? Have you double checked the plug to make sure the TA is really fully plugged in?
I actually did swap my actuator back on and got the same results. Not that that's a good test. I got it from the guy in Canada, it was a rebuilt and then I was sending mine back as a core but when I started having issues I held off on sending it back right away. I'm sure it was plugged in good because I plugged it in before bolting it back on.

I was sure it was going to be that sensor on the firewall side of the "throttle body" (whatever it's called on a diesel), but that was intact.

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2004 QD 4.7 GC
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-09-2019, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
Hendrix9
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Hey all.

Wanted to update this. I tried all kinds of things trying to figure this one out. I finally caved and took a shot with an independent shop authorized to even do Mercedes warranty work. Vertucci Automotive in Wallingford CT for anyone around here. They were great and work on a ton of these 3.0 engines. The owner's even sold 4 of these CRDs and his wife drives one.

Anyways, it ended up being the passenger side exhaust manifold. There's flex bellows right before the turbo Y pipe and the flex had failed causing a low boost issue since obviously the turbo wasn't getting the proper hot side flow. The part was like $570, and they charged me around $1200 total. Took the tech nearly 2 days and he said it was a pain. This was the first time I've let anyone work on this thing and I was really happy with them. I just didn't have time with the 2 little kids and we're closing on the selling of our house and buying another at the end of January.

2007 CRD QDII
2004 QD 4.7 GC
2009 Rav4 v6
2009 Sienna
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-09-2019, 10:22 PM
willyok
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good to hear it got sorted. Considering the price of the part, the repair cost seems pretty reasonable.
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post #6 of 17 Old 08-24-2019, 02:18 PM
drumnerd33
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Did you have any exhaust smell at all? I'm going on a year of chasing a p0299 code and have replaced everything and still getting the code. I even took it linden engineering in Denver and they thought it was a boost sensor I already replaced and that didn't fix it.
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post #7 of 17 Old 08-24-2019, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drumnerd33 View Post
Did you have any exhaust smell at all? I'm going on a year of chasing a p0299 code and have replaced everything and still getting the code. I even took it linden engineering in Denver and they thought it was a boost sensor I already replaced and that didn't fix it.
I'm kinda in the middle of the same this past week. My P0299 with limp mode originally happened immediately following P0046 so I checked all the boost side connections for leaks, none. After a cool off limp mode would clear and boost would return to normal, but P0046 would still be stored. Seemed like I could make about 5 drive cycles before P0299 and limp mode again, a few times this week. P0299 hasn't come back yet after I changed the TA yesterday. P0046 is still stored but I'm thinking that'll clear after a few fault-free drive cycles. My Torque Pro app doesn't clear it even though it goes through the motions like it did.

All that said, I'm still suspicious of the turbo and/or its connections. Maybe you, and maybe I, have a turbo rebuild/new turbo in our futures? I do hear a low whistle, I assume from somewhere in the turbo system, as boost builds around 15psi during acceleration. I don't remember hearing that in the past... normal? What have you observed in the past year?

All stock 08 GC Laredo CRD except for swirl motor resistor mod
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post #8 of 17 Old 08-25-2019, 01:01 PM
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The only code I get is a p0299 and it's usually a pending code and doesn't actually throw a cel. On mine I have already replaced the turbo with a new one, and have replaced just about everything.... I have done all the sensors other then the iat because it is functioning properly. I have a brand new egr, brand new throttle plate, new map sensor (boost sensor), new exhaust back pressure sensor, new mass airflow, brand new turbo actuator (I also did a rebuilt one and thought maybe it was also bad so now have done 2 of them) I have checked multiple times for boost leaks even smoked the system and did smoke with pressure, I tried removing the dpf and it did take longer to go into limp mode but still does.

Only thing I haven't done at this point is remove the catalytic converter but the exhaust back pressure sensor should see too much backpressure and throw a code, I have watched the pressure while driving and the max I see is about 3800 sometimes will hit 4000 I'm not sure what it's supposed to be at isy only issue.

I also put the gde eco tune on and now it's hot way more power but you can also really feel there is an issue because now you can feel the surging even more like the turbo is trying but at wot the vehicle kind of lunges in and out while accelerating. I did change the fuel filter on my previous oil change but didn't on this last one not that long ago, so Im gonna put one on today and see if that helps. Mine feels like either a fuel issue or electronic cutting the boost pressure. If I watch the scanner I can see boost set point and boost pressure do not match but fuel pressure set point and actual pressure seem to match so I'm not sure what's going on.

I'm going to check for exhaust leaks today as well.
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post #9 of 17 Old 08-25-2019, 04:51 PM
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So no exhaust leaks and installed new fuel filter, last one was done last oil change, not sure how often they need done but was told every 10k miles. But thought maybe a have a partially clogged fuel filter and I need to change it anyways, no help same or worse...last drive boost with wot was only 12 psi and limp mode pretty quick
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post #10 of 17 Old 08-25-2019, 08:02 PM
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Okay I think I'm correct in saying that the exhaust back pressure sensor you mentioned would not detect a clogged catalytic. If I'm not mistaken the exhaust back pressure sensor is the one on the crossbar under the hood that measures differential from the front to the rear of the DPF. If I'm correct then a clogged catalytic would have no bearing on that sensor and would cause a low boost situation with no other codes. Exhaust can't flow properly so turbo doesn't spool up. Am I wrong? Is there another exhaust pressure sensor Upstream of the catalytic?

All stock 08 GC Laredo CRD except for swirl motor resistor mod
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post #11 of 17 Old 08-25-2019, 08:10 PM
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By the way are you using the GDE gadget to read and clear codes? I really need to get something better than Torque Pro and I've been considering the GDE tune very seriously recently if only to eliminate other possible problems.

All stock 08 GC Laredo CRD except for swirl motor resistor mod
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post #12 of 17 Old 08-26-2019, 05:37 AM
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No I'm talking about the sensor right near turbo or right next to the egr that sesnor is pre turbo and catalytic converter and is supposed to read back pressure in the exhaust so if there is an issue it will back off the turbo to keep from damaging anything. What I would like to know is what the numbers are supposed to be? Only other thing I can think to do would be to disconnect the turbo output and drive it to see if it changes anything.
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post #13 of 17 Old 08-26-2019, 05:40 AM
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I did remove the intercooler and hoses to inspect, and I found some metal in the intercooler on the feed side so I'm guessing a previous owner had a turbo blow up, it is aluminum pieces. Checked hoses good for cracks and they look good. So again i can't seem to figure out this low boost problem.... Been chasing for over a year now. Getting to my last nerve.
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post #14 of 17 Old 09-02-2019, 07:12 PM
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Drumnerd33, I have read several thread about your on going issues. I am curious, when did this issue first appear? was it around the time of your GDE tune? I am just curious if something is wrong with the tune. Seems like the one area that hasn't been looked into. Have you tried running the stock firmware?

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post #15 of 17 Old 09-02-2019, 07:40 PM
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So it began right after I did the oil cooler leak so I had to tear down everything in the valley and my turbo needed replaced because the blades on the intake side were all chewed up. So I did everything in one shot since I had it all apart anyways... I also deleted the swirl flaps and reading all the problems. Once I had it back together I was getting limp mode instantly... Replaced the actuator and seemed good till the next day it went into limp mode so it was better but still did it. That was when I was trying to rest everything and figure out what was going on and I emailed the gde guys and explained to them my problem and they said it is better to have the vehicle running properly before adding the tune. So I kept testing. Finally started getting maf codes and the maf did test bad and seemed to help but still limp mode every now and then. Then I got the egr code so I pulled it and cleaned it and it was pretty bad but didn't help kept getting the code so ordered a new egr, that fixed the code and seemed good but depending on the day would still go in. That's when I ordered the gde tune. Then I thought I had installed it and noticed no difference (more on that later) so kept trying to diagnose but I'm new to diesel motors and turbo, have been doing gasers forever but this was like Chinese, I have all the proper tools from my uncle who is a retired mechanic and a mobile ecm programmer plus I have a star scanner which is a huge benefit most people don't have. At this point I did anboost pressure test again and smoked it then smoke it with pressure and nothing... No leaks. Then I broke down and just started replacing all the damn sensors..lol even did the throttle plate thinking maybe it's sticking closed... Some things helped a little but when I would tow or be in cruise control it would still go into limp mode. So I was getting pissed and me and my uncle decided to take it to a shop who knows these motors, so we took it to a local place in Denver that alot of people with sprinter vans and jeep crd take there's because they are the place to go. They couldn't find anything either but he did find my map sensor the numbers weren't quite right even though I put a brand new one in, so he replaced it and thought it was good, but nope on the drive home still went into limp mode it just takes longer. Now the part of the story how I realized I'm an idiot.... This whole time I thought I installed the gde tune so I decided to try and take it off to see if it was causing issues, well when I started reading how to go back to factory tune I had to load the computer program then it was saying I had to take the module I plugged into the jeep and plug it into the computer to make a file and send it to gde then they send you the tune....hahahahaha I was like omg I'm an idiot I paid 700 bucks for this almost a year ago and never got the tune...lol so I emailed them and they were extremely fast and helpful and the next day loaded the tune, wow lots more power but now the issue was even more obvious because it was asking for more power it was surging worse and quicker limp mode.

Now for the "I think I fixed it but I don't want to say I did till further testing" yesterday morning I found a guy that had same issues on a sprinter with the same motor, and he had a video showing what the issue was and the shops and the dealer couldn't figure it out. When you rebuild the turbo with a new center section the seller tells you to make sure and clock the turbo correctly. Well on mine the pins lined up correctly and I put it together and put on the actuator and seemed good. Well he did the same thing and found out if you disconnect the linkage from the actuator to the vvt then start it and rev a few times then shut it off the actuator goes to it's home position. Then you see if the linkage will go on and if not you have to clock the cold side of the turbo some till the linkage fits, because otherwise the actuator isn't getting the full range of motion. So I thought well I haven't tried that yet, low and behold mine was about 1/8" off, so I clocked the cold side till it would slide on easy. And hey it's driving normal. Tons of boost and no limp mode. So today I went and towed another jeep which is a nice heavy tow and yup no surging and no limp mode... I think it's fixed, but I'm so scepitcal after so many times thinking its fixed and it wasn't I want to do more testing, I need go do a long trip and use cruise alot and tow my quads to the mountains so I can confirm yup that was it.... And then I want to help the others that have been battling this motor. It's a great motor when it's running right.
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