OME HD Coil Spring Compression - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 08-14-2019, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
Jimbo_IX
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I have been researching like crazy, but cannot seem to get a straight-forward & consistent answer. Any experienced advise will be much appreciated.

My front suspension is Bilstein 4600 & OME HD Coil springs. I also put in New isolators (spring seats).

I have a question about mounting the springs. How much should the springs be compressed before putting the top mounting plate and tourquing the mounting plate nut (to 25ftlbs)?

The service manual just says " compress the spring".

Should the coil be compressed enough for the nut to be all the way down on the shock rod before torque? Then decompress the spring?

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post #2 of 16 Old 08-14-2019, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo_IX View Post
Should the coil be compressed enough for the nut to be all the way down on the shock rod before torque? Then decompress the spring?
Yes.

That being said however if you have never dealt with these things I have to warn you. These things can kill you. Ive seen springs go through cinderblock walls like it was tissue paper. Id suggest spending the cash and taking them to a professional repair facility and have them swap the springs over.

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post #3 of 16 Old 08-14-2019, 03:21 PM
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Yeah, those coil compressors you rent are a little scary to use with the HD springs. They have to get compressed a long ways and you end up running out of room and uncompressing to move those things around.

Agree with Mr Puddles; find a shop with a wall mount and have them install it all with new mounts. You'll be much more pleased in the end


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post #4 of 16 Old 08-14-2019, 03:35 PM
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Agreed with the others, get new mounts and bumpstops so you can throw out the old assemblies entirely and have a shop assemble the new ones for you to put in. I did mine myself but with MD springs and the amount of force required on the ratchet to tighten the compressors compared to doing the springs on my car was pretty concerning. HD springs would be even more so.



If you DIY it, the spring needs to be compressed enough that it's still loose with the top mount on, otherwise it's messing up the torque spec and it'll be loose on the vehicle. Oh and don't forget the washer that goes under the mount (on the shaft) that stops clunks with the 4600. Alternate tightening the compressors so it stays even on both sides and do it by hand (no firing it down with the impact!). Don't have any part of your body in what would be the path of fire should something fail and be mindful of where it's pointed ie. don't have one end aimed at the house and the other out the open garage door into the street.

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post #5 of 16 Old 08-14-2019, 03:55 PM
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I have OME HD coils, but I never used coil compressors to set them up. I removed the old and installed the new by placing a jack under the lower control arm. Jacking up the LCA uses the vehicle weight to compress the coil spring. Once compressed, a quick burp of the impact wrench and they were solid. I've used the same technique on many vehicles without issues and always felt safer.
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post #6 of 16 Old 08-14-2019, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by YouStupidBunny View Post
I have OME HD coils, but I never used coil compressors to set them up. I removed the old and installed the new by placing a jack under the lower control arm. Jacking up the LCA uses the vehicle weight to compress the coil spring. Once compressed, a quick burp of the impact wrench and they were solid. I've used the same technique on many vehicles without issues and always felt safer.
I have seen first hand the results of this when a 5100 came apart. The rod unscrewed from the piston and everything came apart. Big mess, and unfortunately for MOST applications, the 4600 or 5100 for the WK is not a part on the shelf at a local store. Now your car is down while waiting on shipping.

Sometimes tightening the nut with a tool while holding the rod is just not possible without the special tools due to design of the strut mount. I do wherever possible though!
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post #7 of 16 Old 08-14-2019, 11:58 PM
underscore
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How can you tighten it on the vehicle when the nut is covered by the chassis on the WK?
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post #8 of 16 Old 08-15-2019, 04:50 AM
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I just put my HD OME lift on last weekend The rears were easy with a rented compressor. I was able to use a 1/2 ratchet and crank them down enough to fit.
The fronts though were a beast with the rented compressors 1st thing is they didn't fit in the springs so I had to take the tool apart and wind it in place to get started. I could not get the spring compressed by hand with a wrench or ratchet. I ended up having to use an impact to compress the spring and even then the impact barely had enough power to do it.
It took a lot of time but I got them both compressed enough to get the top threads all the way down so I could torque the top bolt.
Before doing the lift I called every shop in town that messed with shock and struts and none of them would help me.
If I had to do it all over again I would look into a press to compress the strut and spring. If that would even work.
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post #9 of 16 Old 08-15-2019, 08:21 AM
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I actually had my local Jeep dealer (who will install lifts, etc) do the install of my 5100s. I will try most things but that's where I draw the line.
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post #10 of 16 Old 08-15-2019, 10:10 AM
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How can you tighten it on the vehicle when the nut is covered by the chassis on the WK?
Through the access ports under the coolant reservoir on the passenger side and under the fuse boxes on the driver side.
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post #11 of 16 Old 08-15-2019, 11:15 AM
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The hole isn't large enough for a socket though, one guy that had to tighten his opted to hack that hole open larger to fit it through.

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post #12 of 16 Old 08-15-2019, 12:01 PM
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That hole isn't large enough for a socket as viewed, but that strut assembly was already assembled when moved over from my other Jeep. Take a socket and tap it through the hole with a hammer. It's not that small or difficult and will make future maintenance easier. The point of my response is that there are often options and shortcuts.
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post #13 of 16 Old 08-15-2019, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YouStupidBunny View Post
That hole isn't large enough for a socket as viewed, but that strut assembly was already assembled when moved over from my other Jeep. Take a socket and tap it through the hole with a hammer. It's not that small or difficult and will make future maintenance easier. The point of my response is that there are often options and shortcuts.
I'm sorry but I'd love to see a pic of that. The metal is too thick
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post #14 of 16 Old 08-15-2019, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by browningv308 View Post
I'm sorry but I'd love to see a pic of that. The metal is too thick
There's the requested picture. As mentioned in a previous post, the strut assembly was assembled on another vehicle. The vehicle in the attached image is that vehicle.

It's really not that hard to get a socket through there with a hammer. It'll make it so much easier in the future if you need to service or replace parts.

Just like you would enlarge any hole, start small and step up to larger pieces until you find your desired width. I went with just a slightly larger socket.

With it up on jack stands and the old spring and strut removed, install the new. After everything is lined up, use a floor jack under the lower control arm to compress the spring.

When you are tightening the top of the strut, if you are using an impact don't crank down on it. Just give it a few quick hits and it'll seat itself. If you need to, use vice grips on the shaft from below, but use something to cover the teeth and prevent damage to the piston. A socket from the top should finish the job.

If you need to disassemble, just reverse the steps.
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Last edited by YouStupidBunny; 08-15-2019 at 09:21 PM. Reason: Added more info.
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post #15 of 16 Old 08-16-2019, 02:50 PM
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That's handy to know if mine ever need to be tightened later. If you lock the vice grips on high enough up the shaft it should be okay if it's marred a bit since that part won't enter the housing. Getting a loose nut onto a new strut through there might be a bit tricky but some needle nose pliers could probably get it on the first couple threads.

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