is this a normal amount of metal shavings? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 03-26-2020, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
Alex_
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is this a normal amount of metal shavings?

Hey there; I was preparing to do a fluid swap on a rear dana 44, I'm still waiting for the fluid to come but I wanted to see what was on the plug magnet, I don't know whether to be concerned or not; It has the original fluid as far as I know and 265.000 kms on it but there's quite a bit of metal shavings on the plug as you can see on the photo.

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post #2 of 8 Old 03-26-2020, 06:08 PM
222Doc
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i would say about normal that many miles never been changed. During breakin much of that is made. That is why i always change the all fluids well before say 5k, then about every 10k on the difs or more depending on use.

as long as there is no say pinion issues or other noise heard runs well. It dont need much of a special oil. Unless it has POSI then you need to add the expensive additive for posi. I would use Dino oil as well, no real need for Synthetic here. Only if you were towing max all the time and heat was an issue in the dif.

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post #3 of 8 Old 03-26-2020, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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i would say about normal that many miles never been changed. During breakin much of that is made. That is why i always change the all fluids well before say 5k, then about every 10k on the difs or more depending on use.

as long as there is no say pinion issues or other noise heard runs well. It dont need much of a special oil. Unless it has POSI then you need to add the expensive additive for posi. I would use Dino oil as well, no real need for Synthetic here. Only if you were towing max all the time and heat was an issue in the dif.
what do you mean by pinions issues? well there is a noise when shifting the trans from P to R or D but I diagnoses that as a bad trans mount (its the original one) there's also a small noise when cruising on the back but it does sound like the trans clunking a bit when making the changes, That noise did go away when we changed the U-joints but it came back but not as bad.

I was planning on using 75w-140.
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post #4 of 8 Old 03-28-2020, 07:01 AM
jeeptorino68
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I think synthetic is the oem reccomendation...

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post #5 of 8 Old 03-28-2020, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex_ View Post
what do you mean by pinions issues? well there is a noise when shifting the trans from P to R or D but I diagnoses that as a bad trans mount (its the original one) there's also a small noise when cruising on the back but it does sound like the trans clunking a bit when making the changes, That noise did go away when we changed the U-joints but it came back but not as bad.

I was planning on using 75w-140.
Pinion should have no Lateral play( side to side. They will rotate with some play. To check that amount you need to pull the cover and use a dial indicator to measure the lash. Most cases if the pinion had lateral play the seal leaks as well. One could have a bad seal and not have pinion issue as well.

Drive line slack. Is when you hear that clunk changing gears. It could be normal, depending on how you shift gears. It could as well be worn U joints. worse case it could be excessive wear in the dif or trans.

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post #6 of 8 Old 03-28-2020, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Pinion should have no Lateral play( side to side. They will rotate with some play. To check that amount you need to pull the cover and use a dial indicator to measure the lash. Most cases if the pinion had lateral play the seal leaks as well. One could have a bad seal and not have pinion issue as well.

Drive line slack. Is when you hear that clunk changing gears. It could be normal, depending on how you shift gears. It could as well be worn U joints. worse case it could be excessive wear in the dif or trans.
I do not have one of these but maybe a buddy that has a shop can lend me one.

The U-joints where replaced I believe early last year with spicer ones; as for the trans the mount is shot same as the pressure sensor which I strongly believe is the cause for the clunk from 2nd to 3rd.
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post #7 of 8 Old 03-30-2020, 06:30 PM
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I would pull the diff cover off and inspect. I've seen abused Dana diffs with 200,000+ miles on them and not that many metal shavings. If the diff has never, ever, been drained since new, then I could see that possibly happening.

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post #8 of 8 Old 03-31-2020, 08:23 AM
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Pull the cover, spray it all down real well with brake cleaner, let it dry, reseal with RTV (mopar stuff is cheap and sets fast) and refill.

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