No heat when idling. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 11-22-2019, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
EduardoV24
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No heat when idling.

smelled nasty antifreeze thru the vents, replaced the heater core at a shop.. About a week later the wife noticed the Jeep wasn’t warming up like it should when idling.. It was blowing out cold air.. Only would blow hot when we drove it. I noticed it as well, I’d be sitting at a stoplight or parked somewhere and the heat would turn to cold within a few seconds of idling. Took it back into the shop and they changed the coolant thermostat... Picked it up today, and noticed it is doing the same thing. Was told it could have an air pocket. But the mechanic claimed to have tested the Jeep before calling me in to pick it up. Any suggestions? Thinking about switching mechanics after throwing 900$ + withthin the last month to get the HEAT FIXED... Need it fixed ASAP especially w little ones in the vehicle & cold winter seems to be starting very early.. Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 17 Old 11-23-2019, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EduardoV24 View Post
smelled nasty antifreeze thru the vents, replaced the heater core at a shop.. About a week later the wife noticed the Jeep wasn’t warming up like it should when idling.. It was blowing out cold air.. Only would blow hot when we drove it. I noticed it as well, I’d be sitting at a stoplight or parked somewhere and the heat would turn to cold within a few seconds of idling. Took it back into the shop and they changed the coolant thermostat... Picked it up today, and noticed it is doing the same thing. Was told it could have an air pocket. But the mechanic claimed to have tested the Jeep before calling me in to pick it up. Any suggestions? Thinking about switching mechanics after throwing 900$ + withthin the last month to get the HEAT FIXED... Need it fixed ASAP especially w little ones in the vehicle & cold winter seems to be starting very early.. Thanks in advance.
It does sound like an air pocket in the system. As long as the engine is not overheating and there is heat while driving, the pocket should work it’s way out over a week or so. sometimes a nice long drive on the highway can help burp the system.
The other option if the heat was working perfect for the first week and then this started happening is that one of the connections could not be tight enough and the system is loosing coolant when hot (pressurized) and sucking in air as it cooled. Either way the problem should get better or worse depending.

The mechanic should be willing to rectify the problem for free because the issue is a direct cause of the work. As long as there’s not something else mechanical wrong of course .. but It’s one of the easier systems to figure out on a vehicle.

Did the mechanic use HOAT (mopar-pink or valvoline G05- yellow) coolant?
If not you, probably need to flush the system completely now. Other antifreezes don’t mix with HOAT and could do damage to the whole system.

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post #3 of 17 Old 11-23-2019, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
EduardoV24
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I feel like I’ve gotten the air pockets out, had to top off the coolant. It seemed to have worked maybe for 5mins, after doing some research I now think it’s something to do with the blender door.. passenger side blows out heat, but driver side doesn’t. Defrost also blows cold..
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post #4 of 17 Old 11-24-2019, 05:45 PM
brent_m
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What color is the fluid in your coolant reserve tank?

I'd suspect that your heater core is plugged with sediment. It's easy enough to reverse flush if you want to do it yourself.

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post #5 of 17 Old 11-25-2019, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
EduardoV24
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Originally Posted by brent_m View Post
What color is the fluid in your coolant reserve tank?

I'd suspect that your heater core is plugged with sediment. It's easy enough to reverse flush if you want to do it yourself.
Looks orange. That’s what I was suspecting as well, it needed to be flushed. After reading more into these forums and google.. I’m taking it in Monday morning to the mechanic. Both hoses are hot to the touch and no more air since I got it out 2 days ago.
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post #6 of 17 Old 11-25-2019, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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1st picture is of my coolant tank.
After I had gotten the air out I noticed a burning smell coming thru the vents. I looked under the hood n seen some smoke coming from where the 2-3rd picture is... I contacted my mechanic after I seen that and he claims that he hasn’t touched anything there. And said only thing it could possibly be is the vacuum hose to the brake booster.. smelt like burning rubber..

This is a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w the 5.7 btw..
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post #7 of 17 Old 11-25-2019, 08:12 PM
brent_m
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Did they do work on it today?

There's a few ways to leak oil in that area. Did you have any engine temperature issues around the time your heater core failed?

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post #8 of 17 Old 11-25-2019, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
EduardoV24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brent_m View Post
Did they do work on it today?

There's a few ways to leak oil in that area. Did you have any engine temperature issues around the time your heater core failed?
No they didn’t. Last they worked on it they had to replace thermostat which I had to fork over 164$ for.. Then took it home noticed the same thing, no heat when idling only cold.. No engine issues. Check engine light is on tho for cataylytic converter. Replaced all 4 02 sensors n still light on. Even tho mechanic said the converters are reading correct temps.. so my guess is a manifold issue. Seen another post about that, still have yet to look at it.
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post #9 of 17 Old 11-26-2019, 07:27 AM
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On the "no heat at idle" I would be checking out the condition of your water pump. On the smoke coming from the drivers side of the engine compartment I can think of two things 1. an oil leak from the back of the valve cover gasket and/or 2. a leaking exhaust manifold gasket and maybe some broken exhaust manifold studs.

On the Catalytic converter make sure you used Mopar Oxygen sensors. Need a scan tool to read the wave forms from the front and rear O2 sensors and compare them. You may very well need new Catalytic converters.

I would not blame the mechanic for anything. A fifteen year old Jeep will have a long list of problems that need to be serviced.
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post #10 of 17 Old 11-26-2019, 08:03 AM
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Personally, I'd keep looking for a better mechanic. He may not be bad, but he will cost you a fortune on these glitchy rigs. He absolutely threw a thermostat at a problem that doesn't even sound like a thermostat, and a thermostat would have been easy to verify. Maybe it was bad too, but there's no evidence of that in this thread (according to my amateur opinion). You should question your mechanic on what other reasons he had for replacing the thermostat.

I don't think you got your air bubbles out of the heater core, and this is free so do it a bunch before you pay for something else (I might question the water pump next, or belts, or ?). This vehicle is the hardest thing to burp a core that I've ever owned. Your symptoms would easily be explained (even the side-specific temp) by the heater core being mostly air-filled. Do you ever hear a little waterfall or trickle coming from near the heater core? If so, that's definitely water falling through an air gap. I'm not commenting on the smoke, which I don't understand and could mean my advice is not on point. It may be unrelated, so I will assume that for now. Any time you are under the hood of an old vehicle, you can break old hoses and old plastic fittings by doing very normal things. You might also have knocked a chunk of god-knows-what loose and it fell onto a hot part.

I burped my core by putting my jeep ridiculously nose high (I ran the front wheels onto something at least 2 feet higher than the rear). I started with a cold vehicle and an open, full radiator. I had just flushed mine myself, which turned out great.
Vehicle propped up, I got a step stool and watched the open radiator cap as it warmed up. First the water stirred, then there was an obvious circulation starting when the thermostat opened. I kept topping off with distilled water. After I got as much water as I could in there, and watched it circulate for about 5 minutes, I put the cap on and shut the engine off. Make sure you have at least enough in the catch bottle to refill anything as it cools. You will keep checking the level for several days.

I let it cool off and did it a second time, but after the first time, the water fall sound was gone. BTW, I had waited for the air bubble to fix itself, and it didn't seem to be going away on it's own.

On the uneven temp left to right, I've heard of cars that send the drivers air through one part of the core (guess the bottom half for a thought experiment), and the passenger's air through the other. If so, when your rig is idling, and only a trickle of hot water is getting into the core, only part of the core is warm. Then when the RPM come up and the water pump starts sending more water, more of the core heats up, allowing both sides to get air through a hot portion. Just a possible theory on why your temp might varywhen you have an air bubble. You may have something completely different happening, but the air bubble only costs you time to get rid of.

If the blend doors were vacuum operated, I'd be more inclined to go after them. These seem to die with the repeated click of an electric solenoid moving broken plastic parts. I don't think those care if you idle or go fast, but your water pump certainly speeds up, so your partially filled heater core (if that's the issue) could get hotter.

Good luck.
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post #11 of 17 Old 11-26-2019, 08:06 AM
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Backflushing the core would be another possible fix, but not as easy as driving your jeep up on something like a commercial and watching it run. I'm just suggesting the cheap and easy step first.

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post #12 of 17 Old 11-27-2019, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Alright so I took the Jeep into the mechanic today. He didn’t get a chance to fix it but did look at it.. He recalibrated the actuators, said he got heat, but when he turned the vehicle off and back on again he says the actuators lose calibration.. He’s not sure what’s causing it, but said I can bring it in Monday to look at it further.. He unplugged the drive side actuator & said for me to let him know if I get heat on idle over the weekend.. Still no heat, only when I drive.
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post #13 of 17 Old 11-28-2019, 11:31 AM
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I still think your core is plugged. Since you had a failure previously, that sediment was distributed throughout your cooling system as the heater core failed. I still think flushing would be easiest to perform. I'm not sure what actuators he's "calibrating".

azzkicker said it above. "I don't think those care if you idle or go fast, but your water pump certainly speeds up, so your partially filled heater core (if that's the issue) could get hotter."

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post #14 of 17 Old 11-28-2019, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EduardoV24 View Post
Alright so I took the Jeep into the mechanic today. He didn’t get a chance to fix it but did look at it.. He recalibrated the actuators, said he got heat, but when he turned the vehicle off and back on again he says the actuators lose calibration.. He’s not sure what’s causing it, but said I can bring it in Monday to look at it further.. He unplugged the drive side actuator & said for me to let him know if I get heat on idle over the weekend.. Still no heat, only when I drive.
Here's my .02

Yes there is an HVAC module that you can calibrate for blend door positions. and yes there are a lot of problems with them in a dual climate controlled vehicles . It could also be a plugged core , water pump, an air bubble or even a bad rad cap by the sounds of it.

The issue I have here is ANY "mechanic" should be able to tell you definitively where the problem is after a fairly short diagnosis and then work on it from there. Is the problem flow, pressure or blend air? It's not that complicated of a system. If he could reliably get heat until it shut off as he said, then you or he should have driven it around like that and confirmed that as the issue. At least blend door HVAC problems won’t overheat your engine or spray hot antifreeze or leave you stranded over the next 4 days!

FWIW , if you've never changed the rad cap and you don't know if the mechanic pressure tested it or the system, I would buy a new one .

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post #15 of 17 Old 11-28-2019, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
EduardoV24
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I’ve been driving it all over. No overheating issues. Getting heat after driving it but after I come to a stop or park it turns cold. It was the “blend door actuators” he was recalibrating. I had mentioned that the heater core could possibly be clogged, he says that it can’t be the heater core because it’s brand new... I doubt he pressure tested it. And no haven’t changed radiator cap since I got the Jeep.
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