New Badger build thread - JeepForum.com
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  • 1 Post By davidradio
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  • 1 Post By azzkicker
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-15-2018, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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New Badger build thread

Iím starting a new build thread because my old photos donít work on the old build thread, and now I have experience with these modifications, so my comments will be different.
This 07 WK Hemi was completely rust free and had no underbody scratches so Iím sure it didnít go offroading. Iíve fixed that, and beaten many permanently welded parts to a new shape. I do crawl under it every few outings to touch up anything rusting with a thick rustoleum black paint.

I had almost all of the labor done for me, due to health issues. I used to do heavy automotive work before I got Multiple Sclerosis, but I just canít do much now. I can do some quality work here and there, but I need the bulk of it done for me. I found a great local shop, call Accessory Outfitters in Beaverton, Oregon. They really do a great job, and their prices are similar to Amazon, except they stand behind anything you buy from them.
Starting at the front end, I went with an ARB winch mount bumper and Warn M8000s (synthetic cable). Iím a little unsure how the synthetic will hold up. It already has some melted areas. Iím told that isnít an issue. I like the idea of lower danger from a broken cable, but Iím skeptical of the idea. Iíve only used my winch a few times, and it already has some melted looking areas of the rope. I suspect steel lasts a lot longer.


07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, two M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-16-2018, 02:28 AM
davidradio
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Very nice shot vazzkicker
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-16-2018, 01:35 PM
Jpe61
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Regarding the cable, here's a good article on steel vs. synthetic:

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/12...ynthetic-rope/

Personally I'd go with synthetic, as it's (a little) safer in case of a cable snap... other than that, it's a really tough call.
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-18-2018, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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I got a request for pics and writeup for my dual battery system, so rather than answer in that thread, I'll just do it here and link to this. I wanted dual batteries because I have dual winches, and I think even 1 winch is risky to run off a single battery.

Up front and in the back, I have installed a Duracell (made in USA) AGM group 49, 850 CCA @ zero degrees F, and 92Ah for the 20 hour rating. That gives me almost twice as much battery as the spec calls for, and only required a wood chisel to shave a few plastic bumps off the tray. My stock hold down and tray work great. Bigger isnít always better, but when it isnít, my apologies; I had fun.
I would recommend anybody with a WK like mine put the bigger battery in. I think in my case, the bigger battery was cheaper, but I was shopping by capacity anyway.



You might notice Iíve added an extra ground wire because I was too lazy to run the ground all the way from the back to the front, and Iím using the body as my ground cable. With the potential added current through the body, I didnít want to overload the stock body ground.
You can also see the 500 amp breaker Iíve installed on the firewall, to protect the main battery from a short in that big cable running back to the rear battery. At the rear battery, I have a resettable 150 amp circuit breaker to protect the rear battery, and keep the whole circuit from overloading.

I would have liked a 200 amp, but I wanted a quality buss, and the available 200 amp unit reviews said they pop much lower. Iím sure somebody makes a good one, but I figure the load should never (or at least rarely) exceed the alternator output. If it does, Iíll change my components. The wire is rated for something ridiculous because itís 30 strand 1/0 gauge pure copper, so that wonít be my choke point.

If you donít breaker or fuse both ends, you risk a short and having arc welding going on until you get time to remove a battery terminal. My cable runs next to my gas tank. Enough said.

I think it was Omelet who has a very clever mount in the rear fender, but I hate working under the rig, and I had the room in the cargo area, so I didnít go that direction. 10 years ago, thatís where it would be.
I took out my load floor because it wasnít doing anything for me and it was taking up space. Mounting to the load floor wasnít as good as mounting through the metal floor anyway.
Hereís where it sits :


I used 1/0 ga pure copper, 30 strand welding wire to make my own battery cables, using an IWISS crimper and soldering the connections as well. They are really nice, and the crimper is much nicer than the price indicated. FYI, when you want to solder something that big, wrap a wet rag tightly around the cable as close to your joint as possible. That keeps the heat from spreading up the cable and embrittling the insulation. It has the added bonus that your shrink tube wonít shrink while itís waiting a foot down the wire.

I switch the battery charging on and off with a cole-hersee 200 amp continuous duty solenoid, wired to an accessory fuse that is only on when the key is (this can be turned off by switch on the dash). I have a momentary switch to use for self-jumping if the engine battery needs help to start. These switches are right next to the steering column. If I donít want to wear out the solenoid, or hear it click, I can switch it off. If I need a jump, I can hold down the momentary switch to connect both batteries.


Iím not sure the circuit breaker is big enough, but I think it is, and if I have to beef up the components, I can do that pretty easily. As I currently have it, it will only be annoying that the breaker pops (if it does). I have easy temporary fixes, like jumper cables or simply bolting both cables together, so this wonít be a trail emergency.
The rear winch is connected directly to the rear battery, and with the engine running, the alternator will charge the battery as I go.

I heard there can be problems without a ďsmartĒ management system, but I didnít have much to lose trying the simple solenoid, and can just replace that with a smarter one if I need to. I didnít see how that was really better (thereís some kind of timed delay, which might make more sense if I was camping and draining that battery, but I wonít. I have the cutoff switch on the dash, so if I need to, I can do the same thing the smart solenoid says it does (wait a few seconds after the engine starts before connecting). So far, Iíve had no issues, and Iíve been running it for months.

The second battery is for running the rear winch, and for peace of mind that I can jump start myself. Neither battery can kill the other if the key isnít on. The only scenario I can think of where my rear battery is dead and wants a huge draw would be if I had to winch with the engine off (like I sank my nose in water, or rolled over. In that case, thereís jumper cables under the seat.

I wanted to run the negative all the way from battery to battery, but in the interest of routing ease and less cable, Iíve run a 1/0 from the rear battery to the body, then I added a 4 gauge ground from the body to the underhood battery. I can add the long ground if I ever have a problem, but right now the only detectable drop in voltage is across the solenoid, and thatís in the mA range.

I installed a plexiglass guard to keep any loose cargo from bumping the solenoid, then I painted all the exposed connections with liquid electrical tape. The battery is in a marine box, trimmed to allow my custom hold down. I ran threaded rod (5/16Ē) through the floor with big washers, then I used a stiff bar over a rubber mat to hold it down. The rods are kept from moving side to side by attachment to angle brackets which are screwed through the floor.

One of those brackets mounts the solenoid and breaker, and the other blocks my cargo box from hitting the battery box. Both are attached with U-bolts. The box is sealed to the floor (mostly so a spilled barley pop or something wonít get under there and stink), and kept from moving in any direction by brackets screwed to the floor. The battery is so tight in the box, it canít move anyway, but the tie down does not use the box, in fact the box is trimmed around the hold down. This is really solid, and nothing budges at all when I yank on it.
The hot cable runs under the rig, and is protected the whole length with an old garden hose (sounds dumb, but itís tougher than split loom and readily available in the 20 feet I needed). If I expected long periods of draw in the 500 amp range, Iíd be worried about overheating the wire, but thereís no scenario I can think of where that would happen. This fine strand stuff has a lot less resistance than copper clad aluminum thick strand (a standard battery cable), so it makes a lot less heat at the same amperage.

If people would find it useful, I could get more detailed on what cable I bought, the crimper, and my solder process (which isnít necessary with the crimper). Many people are better at making cables than me, Iím sure, but these came out really nice and I got to make them exactly the length I wanted, and out of higher quality cable than you can get at the auto parts store. And even with the tool purchase, Iím pretty sure I came out ahead and I wish Iíd bought one decades ago.
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07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, two M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-18-2018, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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Here's the switch where I can prevent the two batteries from connecting, even when the engine is on. The momentary switch forces them together even without the ignition on, in case I want to jump start myself without getting off my butt.

You can also see my CB mounted in the cubby below.
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07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, two M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-19-2018, 09:26 AM
badgerwithhands
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Garage
Loving the setup azzkicker. I'm sure you thought about it, but what did you do to prevent water from entering the water hose loom?

07 WK Overland CRD, cargo LEDs, OME HD, MOPAR skids, rack,
future mods: tires, lights, CB, skids,
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-20-2018, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badgerwithhands View Post
Loving the setup azzkicker. I'm sure you thought about it, but what did you do to prevent water from entering the water hose loom?
Thanks!

I'm not sure I started out thinking about that, but water won't stay in there, and welding cables are not damaged by water contact. The water hose was cut lengthwise the entire length, since pushing the welding cable through would have been tough, and the exact length couldn't have been determined until I actually routed and secured it. Where it gets close to heat sources, I have it wrapped in a quality foil tape to reflect any radiated heat, and near the exhaust I added actual exhaust wrap to the pipe. Then I used electrical tape (not that cheap crap either) where it would pass through holes or brackets. Elsewhere I have small zip ties to make sure the hose loom stays with the cable. As I was threading it through, places where it needed wrapped made themselves obvious (it would bulge or kink). Water will be able to evaporate or leak out.

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, two M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-20-2018, 01:22 PM
omsok
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Aud Battery Setup WK Jeep

Just as an option this was what I did to mount my second battery in the rear. That being said my charging setup is different and only requires a 30 amp fuse to the Ctek in the rear, and I use a fairly small wire. I think it was 8 Gauge. I have yet to update with current photos of install, but this shows the battery tray and setup in general. I can not sue the second battery as a startup battery in this setup, but can manually (at the moment) adjust it so batteries work in parallel.

http://www.engineeredobsolescence.co...battery-setup/
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Last edited by omsok; 02-20-2018 at 01:27 PM. Reason: Added photo
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-20-2018, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
azzkicker
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[QUOTE=omsok;39733274]Just as an option this was what I did to mount my second battery in the rear. That being said my charging setup is different and only requires a 30 amp fuse to the Ctek in the rear, and I use a fairly small wire. I think it was 8 Gauge. I have yet to update with current photos of install, but this shows the battery tray and setup in general. I can not sue the second battery as a startup battery in this setup, but can manually (at the moment) adjust it so batteries work in parallel.

That looks like some nice machine work. By the way, you might consider an automatically resetting breaker instead of a fuse (or in addition, see below), so you won't just blow your fuse if the battery is dead and trying to take more than 30 amps. They're pretty cheap (I think under $20), and most commonly used on the charging circuits for towing a camp trailer. That way, if the battery is really dead, it will charge a bit, lift off until it cools, then charge again and again until your battery is level with the main one. With just a fuse, a dead battery will probably blow your fuse and just not charge at all.

If you carry jumper cables long enough to connect your two batteries, then you could jump yourself, just not from the driver's seat. Careful how you hook them up, or you'll smoke your small ground to the rear battery.

I'm not sure what the Ctek is, but make sure you protect both ends of that 8ga wire. For instance, pinch it on a rock under the rig, and the fuse will blow to protect one battery and the wire, but the other battery may keep sending power until you have a fire. In my case, I have a 500 amp fuse on one end, and a circuit breaker on the other, so a short will not get power from either battery. In your case, I'd be tempted to have my 30 amp fuse on one end, and put a 20 amp auto-resetting breaker on the other end.

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, two M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-21-2018, 09:38 AM
underscore
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off topic but @omsok where did you get that cargo barrier for behind the rear seat?

07 WK CRD//QDII//OME MD//OMG WTF BBQ [daily]
91 Celica GTFour RC [for sale]
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post #11 of 11 Old 06-18-2018, 08:55 AM
omsok
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Travall Petguard. https://www.travall.com/en-us/pet-barrier Vehicle specific.
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