Need help with WJ driveline diagnosis. - Page 2 -
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post #16 of 19 Old 05-16-2019, 08:35 AM
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2005 WK 
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Originally Posted by OldJim View Post
You're right .. Recently had to service my Clown Victoria's 8-1/2" open diff - just filled it with dinosaur shelf schmoo because i know it's good enough for the ancient axle design, not the same familiarity with this jeep, so for proper diagnostics I'll pony for all OEM fluids - though it's a 4 hour round trip to the nearest dealer. Ugh.

Drained the transfer case - had exactly 48 ounces of decidedly low viscosity near black fluid, doesn't smell burnt, but I'll bet it'll leave some crap if I were to put it through a coffee filter - so will refill this with the right stuff too.

It's not that I'm cheap by nature .. just hadn't decided whether or not this is a basket case. Wife says she likes it, so in for a penny.

I'm in Canada BTW, Northern Ontario. Gov't has all but killed car culture, no aftermarket to speak of, and the wreckers cube and cart quickly, so parts availability kind of sucks. The mantra here is "lease it for 3 years, do over". I've even had to pull my old 'rod off the road after 27 years because the insurers won't touch it for under $6K year.

Ah yes, don't get me started on them. Wife's wagon is a write off for the sake of two commonly available doors that I could replace in 2 hours. Car was so popular in that coulor that i could probably find the correct ones without paint. Nope says them - it's a write off, sucks to be you, and no you can't buy the salvage title.

Thanks so far for all the help, will update later.

I had a vehicle a couple years ago that insurance wanted to salvage when I went for a minor claim.
They made a lame offer and I went online and found a dozen of the most expensive ads and they tripled their offer..

Counter any insurance offer with the most expensive comparable vehicles you can find.


05 WK Limited 5.7, QDII, OME HD, 265/70/17 1.25" Spydertrax, CC, MBRP SS, 250xxxkms
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post #17 of 19 Old 05-16-2019, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Got it! Has to be.

Filled with OE goo (Who though it was funny to place fill holes on the dark side of Uranus? 2 ounce hoss syringe and a bit of 1/4" tubing got the job done - 2 ounces at a time). Just putting the brakes back on - In park key off - the rear axles turn freely, the front doesn't. The diff is locked. Something broke, something stuck.
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post #18 of 19 Old 05-16-2019, 05:44 PM
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I'd drive it for a little bit to see if the front end loosens up, when I changed the fluid in mine I had to drive it for a few days for it to fully loosen back up for whatever reason. Worst case the solenoid may be jammed. For testing purposes I imagine you could just remove it.

Originally Posted by OldJim View Post
I've even had to pull my old 'rod off the road after 27 years because the insurers won't touch it for under $6K year.

Ah the joys of private insurance. Everyone out here complains about our public insurance sometimes costing more, but it's hugely beneficial that they have to insure everyone at equal rates and people who have interesting vehicles don't get screwed.

91 Celica GTFour RC [for sale]
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post #19 of 19 Old 05-17-2019, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Well she's all back together .. hard to tell, possibly *maybe* a small bit quieter, but still clearly there. I didn't notice it on the dirt last Saturday, but now that I'm looking for it, it's definitely there at anything over 10 MPH any terrain.

On the other hand, last week I said turn her around NOW, something's wrong - 50 miles today and I didn't have the same impression, but the mind plays tricks. May be just because I've been through it and don't feel as if it's about to puke a joint or something.

If it didn't have tame street radials I'd say it was tire noise - or kind of like what you'd expect on an older truck with no sound deadening. A panel van. A drone which doesn't change in pitch with speed (although intensity increases with speed), doesn't change under power, coast, or brake, straight or in a turn. No actual vibration. I tried reverse but it's difficult to find a place where it's safe to reverse for any distance - though I think it's still there.

Hubs, half shafts and universals feel good. The clicking from the transfer case was, I suspect, just being driven on blocks with no wheels and no load. No drive line codes, no lights (well engine, but that's lambda and cat related). Goes in and out of 4WL normally. Case and diffs weeping at the gaskets as expected for age, but the seals are holding.

I've gone through it as thoroughly as I can, and at least reckon it's not going to toss a wheel and kill her (though the lower rad hose is a bit squishy) - so I'm thinking just drive it, wait and see.

There's a big dampening mass on the front diff, oil soaked over the years. It's not wiggly, but i wonder if it's bushing has given up the ghost? though I wouldn't expect to hear that at 20.
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