Lower control arm replacement - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-14-2019, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
Avs
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2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 65
Lower control arm replacement

After spending days attempting to remove the clevis bolt from the control arm to no avail, I have decided cut off the clevis bolt replace the entire control arm. Itís only ~100/arm for moog with new bushings and ball joint all pressed in.
Before I attempt replace the control arm, do I need to mark the two rear bolts and front boltís location prior to removal assuming I will go for an alignment afterward. Which hole(s) are slotted for camber/caster adjustment? How bad is it getting to 3 bolts to come out vs the clevis bolt?

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post #2 of 7 Old 11-14-2019, 07:00 AM
bensylrm
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I had to do this a few years ago when I put on the OME HD lift. BEST DECISION EVER. I would gage it at about a thousand times easier to remove the control arm and cut out the cleavis bolt. After using a sawzall and angle grinder to cut the bolt out, I did have to use a drill press to drill out the bolt plugs that were thoroughly rust welded into the cleavis fork. A good sharp metal bit and a hand drill could probably have the same effect, might just take a little bit longer. Make sure you have a replacement bolt before attempting said repair. I think I got mine from moparpartsonline. I then used two tape measures to make sure the front of the tires and the back of the tires were equal distances. That's how I do my driveway alignment. It makes it close enough to get it to the alignment shop.

It may take a slight amount of blood sweat tears and cursing she completely finish the job. Good luck! It can be done.

Sent from my ONEPLUS 6 using Tapatalk

05 WK 4.7 OME HD F150 MLL's, BFG MT 255/75-17. Lots of stickers, lights EVERYWHERE!
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post #3 of 7 Old 11-14-2019, 07:07 AM
SteveROntario
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The front lower control arm bolt is the same bolt as the clevis bolt. It has lots of exposed threads so soak it in oil before you go to remove it. The two rears are not that bad but they are installed facing up so their threads will also be rusty. You could spray paint the bolt locations to mark where the old control arm was sitting.

2013 Civic, 2009 Suzuki DRZ-400SM, 2008.5 Grand Cherokee CRD, 1991 Dodge B250, 1934 Hupmobile 417W
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-14-2019, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
Avs
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Just want to double check, all the bolts from the control arm to the body/knuckle should be torque down prior to wheel installation and all the bolts from strut to control arm and strut to body should be torque down with wheel installed and weight of the car bearing on it? The fsm states they should be torque down prior to wheel installation. Thatís how I understand it.
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-14-2019, 08:44 AM
SteveROntario
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Your statement sounds reasonable. The control arm needs to be tight so that it doesn't move when you put weight on it. You want all of the other joints to move to their natural locations with the weight on the vehicle before you torque them.

2013 Civic, 2009 Suzuki DRZ-400SM, 2008.5 Grand Cherokee CRD, 1991 Dodge B250, 1934 Hupmobile 417W
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-16-2019, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
Avs
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Whatís the trick of installing the lower control arm? Per fsm, the cv joint needs to come out, I was able to installed the driverís side without removing the cv joint. Slip the ball joint into the knuckle, jack the control arm up and align the front and rear. For some reason I am having a hard time with the passenger side.
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-16-2019, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
Avs
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I finally figure it out. It was late at night and I wasnít thinking straight.
The trick is jack the steering knuckle up approx. 15Ē high. Slip the ball joint from the lower control arm to the knuckle. Tighten the ball joint all the way. Place the rear of the LCA to the chassis and lastly slide the front of the LCA to the chassis.
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