Limp Mode No Codes - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 07-02-2019, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
Brizzzle
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Limp Mode No Codes

2008 Jeep GC Overland 3.0l v6 Diesel. GDE Eco Tune.
After running without a hitch the last few weeks and months. I pulled a trailer last month for camping and got back zero problems. Since the i put i a new air filter, and i did a transmission fluid service and filter change(droppped the pan) . Drove for a good week or 2 with out problems asweell. All looks great . This past weekend i hitched up my trailer ready for a trip 4 hours away and 10 mins out of the city, ETC (electronic throttle light) comes on and boom limp mode. I pulled over restarted jeep it was off and maybe 10 mins later again it comes on. After a 3rd time we decided to head home and leave the camper and try without. Same thing kept coming on for us without towing now. Sometimes 30 mins of driving other times 5 mins. It was a warm day....

One thing to mention we had some serious rain the night before which we were driving in but had no problems then...
I need to find an answer as im positive i bring it to the shop or dealership ill be paying money to them without a resolution. From reading evrything on the internet about etc lights and no codes for these jeep crds im thinking checking and replacing

1) Turbo actuator
2) Crankshaft position sensor
3) Checking PCM for bad wiring. ( I do have a broken clip on the big wire connector to the pcm located directly under battery. Never has gave me problems before but maybe now?)
4) Transmission fluid check( not positive i have correct fluid level as it takes a scientist to measure correctly on these. I know im close though. I used ATF+4 but is some better then others i have no idea...

The other thing is it happened again 1 hr into our trip back home, then a full 3 hrs back it didnt happen atall. Just why its intermittent like this is what has me guessing. I assume if it was a failed sensor it would just always come on. To me its something about to fail or else electrical demons

Ive checked for lose hoses anything disconnected but it all looks good. I thought i figured it out when i noticed my intercooler hose to throttle plate thing was kinda popping off. Wire clip wasnt holding properly but today i removed all that and made sure the clip was good and pipe clamped it and i still am experiencing the Throttle light coming on along with reduced performance.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Any fues or relays i should have a look at?. Thanks so much


2002 Overland 4.7L H.O
Onyx Green Pearl
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post #2 of 20 Old 07-02-2019, 11:51 PM
rokrau
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There have to be codes. Your engine light is coming on, right?

Is your code reader any good?

Check the wiring harness that runs by the AC line on the driver side right behind the power steering pump.

Reseat and fasten with a zip tie the connector to the PCM.

Observe the opening and closing of the actuator lever with someone in the car turning the key. The lever must move and make no funny noises. Also have them rev the engine a bit to observe that the actuator is properly working.

Did you change the fuel filter?

Did you disconnect the MAF sensor?

Did you disconnect anything else when you worked on the transmission fluid change?
Like that sensor that sits right by the turbo.

How about the swirl motor fix?

That’s my troubleshooting rundown of all the problems myself and others report here regularly.

Hopefully you’ll find codes.

—Roland
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--Roland, 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland, 3.0 CRD, EHM and TRD
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post #3 of 20 Old 07-03-2019, 08:44 AM
jtec
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there are likely codes - a scanner is a must have tool today.

Dont disconnect battery or erase codes until you get a scanner on system.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #4 of 20 Old 07-03-2019, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
Brizzzle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rokrau View Post
There have to be codes. Your engine light is coming on, right?

Is your code reader any good?

Check the wiring harness that runs by the AC line on the driver side right behind the power steering pump.

Reseat and fasten with a zip tie the connector to the PCM.

Observe the opening and closing of the actuator lever with someone in the car turning the key. The lever must move and make no funny noises. Also have them rev the engine a bit to observe that the actuator is properly working.

Did you change the fuel filter?

Did you disconnect the MAF sensor?

Did you disconnect anything else when you worked on the transmission fluid change?
Like that sensor that sits right by the turbo.

How about the swirl motor fix?

That’s my troubleshooting rundown of all the problems myself and others report here regularly.

Hopefully you’ll find codes.

—Roland
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
<img src="https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/images/smilies/iagree.gif" border="0" alt="" title="I Agree" class="inlineimg" /> there are likely codes - a scanner is a must have tool today.

Dont disconnect battery or erase codes until you get a scanner on system.
Thanks for the reply. No there is definetly no codes. Check engine light is not coming on just the flashing electrical bolt with 2 inverted brackets. Electronic throttle control and it just flashes. That is all. And like i say sometimes after 5 mins sometimes adter 2 hours..When i was out of town i took it to the dealership and they scanned it with a crazy snap on diagnotic scanner and they come up with nothing , in any category... .. as i presumed .... previously i checked it with the gde scanner and nothing was up aswell.

-I have a new fuel filter 1 month ago was replaced with no problems.

- will check the wiring by the power steering pump. Thanks and i will try to connext the PCM wiring better

- i will have to check the actuator in operation.. so with car off then key on it should move? And then with the throttle pressed i should see it moving without any wierd noises correct?. Thanks so much

-The MAF was disconnected prior to problems just to get my air box off ..i was adding the alternator splash guard. But that was all plugged back in....

-Swirl has been disabled from the gde tune ( from my understanding it is anyway)

- never disconnected any sensors with the trans fluid change

I appreciate all this thank you

2002 Overland 4.7L H.O
Onyx Green Pearl
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post #5 of 20 Old 07-03-2019, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
Brizzzle
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Checked Functionality of turbo actuator and it seems to be working fine. Key on and it moved up to a position and then upon pressing the pedal it opened and closed with the accelerator. Seems ok under these tests

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post #6 of 20 Old 07-03-2019, 11:51 PM
rokrau
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brizzzle View Post
Checked Functionality of turbo actuator and it seems to be working fine. Key on and it moved up to a position and then upon pressing the pedal it opened and closed with the accelerator. Seems ok under these tests
Tough one then.

Without codes I’d be most suspicious of the ECU connector.

Also check the resonator and it’s hose clamps and connections if you still have that thing. It sits at the end of the metal pipe that comes from the turbo. If it comes loose or the connections are not tight you will get an under boost that will cause the ETC light to come on. Wiggle the pipes to see they’re firm and tight.

MAF will throw a code if not reconnected properly. I did that.

There’s a sensor in the throttle body. When you put the splash shield in you might have gotten that disconnected. Check that.
At this point it’s gonna get tough and expensive.

Best wishes!!!
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--Roland, 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland, 3.0 CRD, EHM and TRD
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post #7 of 20 Old 07-04-2019, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
Brizzzle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rokrau View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brizzzle View Post
Checked Functionality of turbo actuator and it seems to be working fine. Key on and it moved up to a position and then upon pressing the pedal it opened and closed with the accelerator. Seems ok under these tests
Tough one then.

Without codes I’d be most suspicious of the ECU connector.

Also check the resonator and it’s hose clamps and connections if you still have that thing. It sits at the end of the metal pipe that comes from the turbo. If it comes loose or the connections are not tight you will get an under boost that will cause the ETC light to come on. Wiggle the pipes to see they’re firm and tight.

MAF will throw a code if not reconnected properly. I did that.

There’s a sensor in the throttle body. When you put the splash shield in you might have gotten that disconnected. Check that.
At this point it’s gonna get tough and expensive.

Best wishes!!!
Thanks you. Next thing for sure im checking is the connections at the pcm and the wiring around it.

I have done the resonator delete and the new pipe is clamped very well .. that looks good but in still suspicious of the other end of my intercooler the pipe from that into the throttle body doesnt use a pipe clamp connection its just that plastic fitting and on the tube end its a formed metal with 2 dimples then the only thing that holds it in is a metal U clip. Seems like that originally was popping off a little bit to one side and i did notice that. Im sure it is not air tight there...and coinidentally every time i noticed the light that was 1/4" out on one side and i could push it and it "clicked back in" and i thought tha was it for sure. I had some one in the car pressing the gas and theres alot of growth in that pipe past the intercooler and it got hard ao the pressure is there for sure... but like i say i pulled that plastic plste off and made sure the clip was on right and put a pipe clamp over it all so its not popping off 1/4" on one side any more but maybe the seals gone............ anyway i have the jeep booked in to get looked at tommorow i will update later.
Thanks again

Ive pulled that sensor in the throttle body out and looked at it but never disconnected any wiring

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post #8 of 20 Old 07-05-2019, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Update from chrysler dealership. Just as i presumed they couldnt tell me why the ETC light was coming on but my transmission had 0.8L over so they pulled that out and we'll see if that was the cause or not. Im hoping so because i cant have a car that just goes into limp kode for no reasons.. so frustrating.. whaddya think ? Over filled transmission fluid can cause this??... crazy thing is i read a tranny fluid service take approx 4-6 qts and i put in 4.5 quarts but it was still 0.8 l over ? It was showing high on my fluid measuring stick dipstick tool i bought online i wasnt confident it was correct for reading the levels but i guess it is.. it said mercedes transmission nag1 and all.. bought off ebay

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post #9 of 20 Old 07-07-2019, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Im sure its a sensor not reaching perfect parameters or else an electrical fault , relay not performing 100% , turbo actuator working but not working correctly, m.a.f. sensor working but not working correctly, brand new air filter allowing too much or too little air flow then ecm not used to, dpf delete pipe not jive-ing with the rest of the system, lol and joking aside but anything else electrical that speaks to the computer that has a say in throttle function. Something so simple is absolutely making this vehicle worthless to me we bought it for camping and long hauls and we cant even do that, having a trailer behind and going into limp mode on the highway is dangerous and i cannot have that with my wife and kids in the vehicle. Rendered useless. Saddened but this vehicle will be getting sold soon unless some miracle happens soon. Unbelievable really. These damn new vehicles these days i tell ya

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post #10 of 20 Old 07-08-2019, 10:47 AM
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As said above, you definitely need a code reader that is capable of reading ALL of the modules, especially the transmission. I have an 05 Dodge Magnum with the same Mercedes transmission (NAG1) that is used mostly for trips....87K on it. Started to go for a little ride the other day and it went into limp mode on the first 2-3 shift. On my fairly high end scanner (Autel MS906) I pulled the code P0733, a 3rd gear ratio issue. I've since researched the problem and talked to several people "in the know" and am almost positive it is the conductor plate on the valve body.....at least that's what the consensus is. This can apparently happen at any time without warning as, the last time I drove it, it worked fine.

I am not even going to mess with it....just take it to a reputable shop and have them do it. I'll be there watching the proceedings too. The complete job should run $700-800 and the parts alone (all Mercedes) cost close to $400, including the conductor plate, the plug (part of the problem) and the fluid and filters. The vehicle is being flat-bedded to the shop tomorrow, and I'll post what the findings are.

As a side note, when I checked the fluid level, mine was a little overfull too, but it's been that way for almost 30K without issue. I don't know if this could be a contributing factor or not. We'll see what they say.

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post #11 of 20 Old 07-09-2019, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, even the chrysler dealer has said no codes were coming up. I assume they were capable of reading all the codes. Thats the 2nd chrysler dealership now thats told me that... ive since checked and pulled my battery out which prior i noticed my negative battery cable could move left to right it was not perfectly tight not sure why but maybe that could have been causing it?. It did seem like one instance i pressed a.c on and boom it happened. And first times it happened with my trailer attached it was plugged in and my jeep was powering its lights and i have a brake controller. I first suspected electrical... but any whoo i took my battery out recently, battery tray, checked all the wires underneath and their harnesses there was a bit of rubbing of the big main loom on the power steering pump and a.c lines no wires were frayed tho. So i zip tied them best o could to stop touching, maybe the heat transfer to the wires could be causing interference aswell? I dunno. Also my pcm connector ( dumb dumb design was broke flimsy plastic its held in tight but never coming out) seems ok. I attach a couple pics. I put everything back and tightened my battery real good , it hasnt happened again yet although ive only drove for 10/ 20 mins here and there the past few days, i will let you know

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post #12 of 20 Old 07-09-2019, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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My computer was caked in sludge from previous owner i also wire brushed it and cleaned it maybe it was over heating aswell. I hope this problem is gone
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post #13 of 20 Old 07-09-2019, 03:30 PM
browningv308
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I just logged on to this site to ask about my etc {thunderbolt of death light} flashing and the jeep going into limp mode I'm 3 weeks into the ownership of my shiny new to me jeep and on the way from a short tip Sunday the light came on and the jeep went into limp mode. My code reader says PO243 turbo actuator malfunction I didn't know to turn off the engine and it would reset so I drove it the 50 miles back home While I was driving in limp mode from time to time the jeep would sputter and shake a little while on the pedal Today I tried driving the jeep and at 1st the light was gone and it ran good after 30 min the light came on and again hit limp mode I also noticed the mpg's have gone down to about 17 under normal driving?
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post #14 of 20 Old 07-10-2019, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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I would say definitely your looking at a new/ rebuilt turbo actuator in your case. For me I almost wish i got a engine code at the time of the etc light ro lead onto. I still have nothing to go on. .. although i havent seen the light come on yet the past couple days aince i checked the wiring and re installed my battery. I need to go on a 1 -2 hr cruise for my final test and see if its gonna come back

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post #15 of 20 Old 07-11-2019, 01:07 PM
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Mine ended up being the elephant hose it had come loose from the clean air hose, mine still had the orange gasket and it was covered with oil.

The more I think about it the 1st time the Jeep went into limp mode all I saw on the dash was the red light above the temp gauge and no check engine light in the middle. Now the sun was behind me all the way home so I may have missed the center orange/yellow light.

The next day I did see the check engine light it was on all the time and the red limp mode light was flashing. When I read the code it came back as a PO243 Turbo actuator.
Pulling the engine cover 1st thing I saw was orange gasket at the end of the elephant hose exposed.

Could your hose be leaking? Have you checked around the clean air hose to see if anything is loose?
I just bought the Jeep 3 weeks ago and while test driving the 1st thing I noticed was a diesel smell in the cab when I was driving it.. Can you smell any diesel inside your Jeep?

I just did the elephant hose mod today and the 1st thing I noticed was no diesel smell in the cab while driving along with no more limp mode and flashing lights.
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