jeepinByAl upper control arm install - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-02-2011, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
geoffh
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jeepinByAl upper control arm install

so i just got jeepinByAl upper control arms and the instructions for them say that i need to use a special tool #8677 to seperate the upper ball joint from the knuckle. Is this tool truly necesary or can i just hammer at it till it comes loose? I dont want to do any damage but I guess if I will be throwing out the old UCA what does it really matter?

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post #2 of 11 Old 04-02-2011, 10:17 PM
jeepnxj3
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It isn't necessary. I bought one at autozone for like $10 just in case when I did my lift and ended up not needing it so I just returned it. You could do the same.

I just loosened the nut on the ball joint and then gave it a few whacks with a hammer and it popped free without any damage.

2008 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE OVERLAND 4X4
5.7 HEMI QDII
2" OME MD : 265/70/17 ON MOABS : AFE STAGE II : KICKER AUDIO : WEATHERTECH MATS
ROLA RACK : 4XGUARD 12 BOLT DIFF GUARD : BT CATCH CAN
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-02-2011, 10:26 PM
Lifted_up
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffh View Post
so i just got jeepinByAl upper control arms and the instructions for them say that i need to use a special tool #8677 to seperate the upper ball joint from the knuckle. Is this tool truly necesary or can i just hammer at it till it comes loose? I dont want to do any damage but I guess if I will be throwing out the old UCA what does it really matter?
Just remember to not hit the actual ball joint because you could damage it. Hit the flat part of the knuckle by the ball joint and it will pop free.

[09 JKU Rubicon][4.5" lift][Synergy draglink flip kit][Bushwacker flat flares][18x9 Black Eagle Alloy 197 Wheels][35" Nitto Trail Grapplers][Warrior Front Stubby Bumper w/Hidden Winch Mount][Smittybilt X20 10 Comp Series Winch][Paramount Restyling Rear Bumper w/Tire Carrier][Adams Front DS][SC Flashpaq][PureJeep C Gussets][Nitro Sleeves]
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-02-2011, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
geoffh
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so then your saying to hit down on the flat spot of the knuckle to break it loose? Use a rubber mallet or what? I just dont want to mess anything up.
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-02-2011, 11:06 PM
Lifted_up
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Originally Posted by geoffh View Post
so then your saying to hit down on the flat spot of the knuckle to break it loose? Use a rubber mallet or what? I just dont want to mess anything up.
No need for a rubber mallet. Regular hammer will work. You just want to hit around the area where the ball joint slips into the knuckle. You'll see the flat spot I am talking about. It is on the side that faces the tire.

[09 JKU Rubicon][4.5" lift][Synergy draglink flip kit][Bushwacker flat flares][18x9 Black Eagle Alloy 197 Wheels][35" Nitto Trail Grapplers][Warrior Front Stubby Bumper w/Hidden Winch Mount][Smittybilt X20 10 Comp Series Winch][Paramount Restyling Rear Bumper w/Tire Carrier][Adams Front DS][SC Flashpaq][PureJeep C Gussets][Nitro Sleeves]
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-02-2011, 11:11 PM
jeepnxj3
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http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/...ead.php?t=5715

This OME install on a Commander will help. Just scroll down until it begins talking about removing the front struts. I did it the way they described. Loosen the nut and hit the bolt with a metal hammer. It only took 2 or 3 hits for it to come loose for me.

2008 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE OVERLAND 4X4
5.7 HEMI QDII
2" OME MD : 265/70/17 ON MOABS : AFE STAGE II : KICKER AUDIO : WEATHERTECH MATS
ROLA RACK : 4XGUARD 12 BOLT DIFF GUARD : BT CATCH CAN
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-03-2011, 10:49 AM
SuplexTreatment
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I had to use a 1/2" washer above the JBA castle nut to get the cotter pin hole in the right spot. Might wanna pick a couple up.
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-03-2011, 03:13 PM
BLEEDNJEEP
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He could use a pickle fork or miss and hit the ball joint, the JBAs have new ball joints anyways so damaging the old ones don't really matter!!!

2012 Jeep Unlimited Sahara 2" inch lift
2007 WK 4.7 QT II Jeep Green OME 2" lift
1985 CJ-7 5.7 360 41K miles
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-03-2011, 04:28 PM
sk1er18
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Just a quick suggestion for anyone using the hammer method. Make sure you take the nut ALL THE WAY OFF FIRST! Then, put the nut back on a few threads and hit the knuckle with a hammer. This goes for the outer tie rod as well.

What will happen if you don't take the nut all the way off first? Well, most of the time the threads aren't very clean and it takes some torque to get the nut off. If you just unscrew the nut a few threads, then break the balljoint loose, and then think you'll just finish unscrewing the nut you'll likely find that the balljoint will spin and the nut won't come off. By taking the nut off first you essentially "clean" the threads which makes it easy to remove once the balljoint is loose.

-Matt
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post #10 of 11 Old 04-03-2011, 04:30 PM
CmmdrDan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk1er18
Just a quick suggestion for anyone using the hammer method. Make sure you take the nut ALL THE WAY OFF FIRST! Then, put the nut back on a few threads and hit the knuckle with a hammer. This goes for the outer tie rod as well.

What will happen if you don't take the nut all the way off first? Well, most of the time the threads aren't very clean and it takes some torque to get the nut off. If you just unscrew the nut a few threads, then break the balljoint loose, and then think you'll just finish unscrewing the nut you'll likely find that the balljoint will spin and the nut won't come off. By taking the nut off first you essentially "clean" the threads which makes it easy to remove once the balljoint is loose.
The bottom of the ball joint is a 8mm. For those that haven't cut it back.
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post #11 of 11 Old 04-03-2011, 04:47 PM
sk1er18
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T'is true. And the bottom of the tie-rod is a hex (forget what size).

Still a PITA though. And via working in a shop in the North-East part of the country, i've seen instances where the threads were so bad that the 8mm (or hex or whatever is there) wasn't enough and would strip out, leaving the only recourse being to cut it (which is even more of a pain unless you're lucky enough to get it threaded back on and use the tapered connection to keep it from spinning with some very well placed pry bars).

If you spin it all the way off first it saves some fighting and usually comes off by hand afterwords.

-Matt
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