HID/LED Headlight Project - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
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post #76 of 162 Old 02-29-2016, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Yooshaw View Post
Are you cutting this yourself, or getting it fab'd somewhere?
I have not really decided... Obviously if I cut it myself it will not be very precise but it will be cheaper. I'll have to look back through this thread and the HIDplanet one. I remember someone posted a link to a website where they will make you / print you the brackets.

EDIT: Found it!
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Shapeways.com



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post #77 of 162 Old 02-29-2016, 02:54 PM
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post #78 of 162 Old 03-01-2016, 04:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bogie View Post
Thanks! That's also a good one. I'll have to check that out. I also need to figure out how thick I want this bracket to be.

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post #79 of 162 Old 03-02-2016, 08:31 AM
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Just read through the entire thread, awesome work! The level of detail you're getting yourself into is impressive. I went back to the first page to try and read again as I'm a bit confused. With the OEM Valeo's, is the projector just not big enough for the desired beam width you desire for an LED or HID bulb, and that's why you're installing a larger projector?

Are you adjusting cutoff with the high beam projector just by making sure it's angle when you mount it is correct, or are you fabricating some sort of adjustment system? Any opinions on OPT7 LED headlights or Starnill? They both have a lot of good ratings and reviews on Amazon. Some bad too, but a small percentage.
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post #80 of 162 Old 03-02-2016, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Hybridp View Post
Just read through the entire thread, awesome work! The level of detail you're getting yourself into is impressive. I went back to the first page to try and read again as I'm a bit confused. With the OEM Valeo's, is the projector just not big enough for the desired beam width you desire for an LED or HID bulb, and that's why you're installing a larger projector?

Are you adjusting cutoff with the high beam projector just by making sure it's angle when you mount it is correct, or are you fabricating some sort of adjustment system? Any opinions on OPT7 LED headlights or Starnill? They both have a lot of good ratings and reviews on Amazon. Some bad too, but a small percentage.


I will try to answer all your questions as best I can. The OEM Valeo's can be tweaked (clear lense/spacers/etc.) and made better. This is a much easier option when compared to replacing the projectors like I am doing. Since the assemblies are "Eagle Eye" Replica OEM the projectors that came inside them were Valeo replicas and unfortunately not the same quality. They needed to be swapped in my opinion to achieve a better amount of useful light.

I opted for LED projectors because new technology intrigues me. An easier route would have been to just swap in a Mini H1 projector from TRS(the retrofit source) because of it's size. The new H1 projector (7.0) have a crazy amount of width.

In the high beam output picture here:


You can see a distinct horizontal line. This will match up with the Low beam horizontal line (cutoff). I will use nuts/bolts and some JB weld to hold it in place. My goal is to align the beams as best I can since the adjustment screws will move both the high and low beam at the same time. This will probably be a headache for me to tackle one spring/summer night in the dark. I did a retrofit on my old motorcycle and you can see here what I'm talking about with the nuts/bolts.


Lastly I would absolutely shy away from any "Plug n Play" bulbs. That would include any HID or LED bulbs. As a general rule of thumb whatever bulb the headlight came with is the same type you should use. The reflectors in these headlights are designed around certain bulbs. The LED & HID bulbs may look brighter but are giving a way less controlled beam onto the road. This leads to glaring light into other drivers views and severely limiting your visibility.

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post #81 of 162 Old 03-02-2016, 10:53 AM
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Would the mini h1's just basically screw/lock down to the stock Valeo housing?

I agree with what you mean in just throwing HID's or LED's into certain projectors. That seems to be the issue with many as the glare and cutoff is pretty crappy on most cars. So if your jeep didn't come with the HID housings it's basically going to run you around 500-600 to get a good HID setup it seems? Man good luck with the adjustment screws and whatnot, lot of variables there with the different projectors and bulbs, will be interesting to see how it turns out. Maybe just leave the high beams alone and end up using an LED bar?
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post #82 of 162 Old 03-02-2016, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Hybridp View Post
Would the mini h1's just basically screw/lock down to the stock Valeo housing?

I agree with what you mean in just throwing HID's or LED's into certain projectors. That seems to be the issue with many as the glare and cutoff is pretty crappy on most cars. So if your jeep didn't come with the HID housings it's basically going to run you around 500-600 to get a good HID setup it seems? Man good luck with the adjustment screws and whatnot, lot of variables there with the different projectors and bulbs, will be interesting to see how it turns out. Maybe just leave the high beams alone and end up using an LED bar?
The Valeo's would need to be removed and a bracket would need to be fabbed up for the Mini H1's to bolt to (since I'm 100% the holes wouldn't line up perfectly). That's a simple swap though.

The Mini H1 (or Mini D2s) could be easily put into a OEM halogen set up though. Just like this:


Going with this would eliminate the need for buying new OEM style housings.

Another good option would be to use Spyder headlights, if you like the syle. They come with halogen reflectors but TRS sells Spyder retrofit kits. It removes the spyder halogen projector and replaces it with a Mini H1.

The cost could vary a lot. True OEM housings will cost more than the replicas. The replicas do not come with ballasts or controllers. Those could probably be had for cheap on Ebay or a local junkyard though. You could even find the OEM valeo projectors on Ebay. I know that's the route that Omelet went in his build HERE.

In my state a LED bar for a high beam wouldn't work.. It has to be DOT approved (which I guess technically retrofitting isn't) but whatever. A retrofit will get through inspection a lot easier than trying to pass a LED bar off as a high beam.

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post #83 of 162 Old 03-02-2016, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 08zombie View Post
The Valeo's would need to be removed and a bracket would need to be fabbed up for the Mini H1's to bolt to (since I'm 100% the holes wouldn't line up perfectly). That's a simple swap though.

The Mini H1 (or Mini D2s) could be easily put into a OEM halogen set up though. Just like this:


Going with this would eliminate the need for buying new OEM style housings.

Another good option would be to use Spyder headlights, if you like the syle. They come with halogen reflectors but TRS sells Spyder retrofit kits. It removes the spyder halogen projector and replaces it with a Mini H1.

The cost could vary a lot. True OEM housings will cost more than the replicas. The replicas do not come with ballasts or controllers. Those could probably be had for cheap on Ebay or a local junkyard though. You could even find the OEM valeo projectors on Ebay. I know that's the route that Omelet went in his build HERE.

In my state a LED bar for a high beam wouldn't work.. It has to be DOT approved (which I guess technically retrofitting isn't) but whatever. A retrofit will get through inspection a lot easier than trying to pass a LED bar off as a high beam.
Awesome to hear. The spider ones..man...those look odd. What I meant about the high beam is simply (well you've already modified them so it doesn't matter) leaving the high beams stock so they'll pass inspection when they turn em on but simply use an LED bar for high beams. You're a responsible driver so you're not going to be using it with oncoming traffic and people in front of you, etc. Good to know the Mini H1's will fit easily into the halogen setup.
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post #84 of 162 Old 03-03-2016, 04:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Hybridp View Post
Awesome to hear. The spider ones..man...those look odd. What I meant about the high beam is simply (well you've already modified them so it doesn't matter) leaving the high beams stock so they'll pass inspection when they turn em on but simply use an LED bar for high beams. You're a responsible driver so you're not going to be using it with oncoming traffic and people in front of you, etc. Good to know the Mini H1's will fit easily into the halogen setup.
Yup the Spyder & Anzo headlights certainly aren't for everybody. I prefer to keep it as OEM looking as possible.

I understand what you're saying now! I actually haven't modified the high beam YET. I only placed the front half of the projector in the location to get an idea of what it will look like.

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post #85 of 162 Old 03-03-2016, 07:12 AM
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The Anzo's don't look bad. Maybe just crack it open and disconnect the halo and LED lights if that's not your jam and use the projectors (are they good for HID?)

Maybe just throw a bar on the bumper and adjust the angle so the cutoff isn't way too high and use that as your actual high-beam, and you'll still pass inspection and not need to retrofit the high beams.
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post #86 of 162 Old 03-03-2016, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Hybridp View Post
Maybe just throw a bar on the bumper and adjust the angle so the cutoff isn't way too high and use that as your actual high-beam, and you'll still pass inspection and not need to retrofit the high beams.
I get what you're saying but the quads are speaking to me

I have had 2 KC's behind the grill now for a while. They're disconnected but I have all the components to hook them up.


If worse comes to worst (and the brackets I'm making don't work) I could just mount the low beam to the assembly. I wouldn't have any adjustment once it's sealed up though...
Here's an example picture (Jayloop? used FXR projectors):

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post #87 of 162 Old 03-12-2016, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Stopped by advanced auto parts this morning to look for a H9/H11 plug... apparently they don't have one. They only had 9005/9006/H4/H7.

Went to Lowes after lunch to look for mounting things. Bought everything I thought I needed except no sheet metal.. Well that leads me to this new development of ditching the bracket I took the time to draft lol. Similar to a method on HIDplanet called the "JnC method" but this one is not adjustable once sealed up.

Had to cut off the old projector bracket.


JB Welded a piece of angle on the assembly. I didn't want to drill through the housing to mount it. I will if the JB doesn't seem solid enough though. The other side of the projector is going to be a little tougher to find a spot on the assembly for the angle piece. It's not flat on that side. I'm just now waiting for that side to cure and I'll have to see what I can do for another mount.



Angle/Bolts on the projector.

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post #88 of 162 Old 03-12-2016, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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SOOO YAY JB WELD ON PLASTIC HOUSINGS! <Fail>



So the next logical step is to bolt the angle pieces into the assembly. It's what I didn't want to do but it's going to work so I'm going with it. Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. No sense overcomplicating. I may shorted the bolts in the rear with the dremel to prevent them from hitting anything. Nuts will be JB'ed onto the bolts in the rear once everything is aimed 100%.



Projector protrudes from the back exactly as far as it needs to. The sharpie line I made was the perfect depth to meet the OEM shroud.




Next phase is to get the high beam reflector dremeled out for the H9 projector. That's going to need to wait till I have a set of shrouds but I will be buying them very soon. Then after that is the fun part of copying all this onto the Drivers side headlight!!

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post #89 of 162 Old 03-12-2016, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 08zombie View Post
SOOO YAY JB WELD ON PLASTIC HOUSINGS! <Fail>



So the next logical step is to bolt the angle pieces into the assembly. It's what I didn't want to do but it's going to work so I'm going with it. Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. No sense overcomplicating. I may shorted the bolts in the rear with the dremel to prevent them from hitting anything. Nuts will be JB'ed onto the bolts in the rear once everything is aimed 100%.



Projector protrudes from the back exactly as far as it needs to. The sharpie line I made was the perfect depth to meet the OEM shroud.




Next phase is to get the high beam reflector dremeled out for the H9 projector. That's going to need to wait till I have a set of shrouds but I will be buying them very soon. Then after that is the fun part of copying all this onto the Drivers side headlight!!

hey bud looks good man, but what do you think this will cost you in parts? then how many hours of labor would you say?

I love your idea, and concept I wanna do it myself. But with what else is out there today, is this really worth it for the time and effort?

Dont get me wrong. I am all about DIY but sometimes it is easy to just bite the bullet n spend a few dollars more, and support another guy who has done this.

Im not hating at all, I just am here to figure out whats up, and how much time. because its FISHING SEASON soon and I got a new toy to play with ........ nice lil JetSki =)

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post #90 of 162 Old 03-12-2016, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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hey bud looks good man, but what do you think this will cost you in parts? then how many hours of labor would you say?

I love your idea, and concept I wanna do it myself. But with what else is out there today, is this really worth it for the time and effort?

Dont get me wrong. I am all about DIY but sometimes it is easy to just bite the bullet n spend a few dollars more, and support another guy who has done this.

Im not hating at all, I just am here to figure out whats up, and how much time. because its FISHING SEASON soon and I got a new toy to play with ........ nice lil JetSki =)
Hey thanks! In parts its hard to say... I see 3 potential options though. This is a long post... sorry in advance.

1.) If you have OEM HID assemblies I would recommend just doing a clear lense swap (~$30-40$) on them.

2.) If you don't have HID assemblies, like me, you'll have to buy the replica assemblies (~$250). You could use the projectors that come in them without any problems. The projectors just aren't OEM quality but would still work well enough for people to drive with. You would just need to buy the D1S bulb/ballast. (Can be found cheap on ebay)

I went the "Complex" route with the LED Projectors. They cost ~$130 from HERE. These projectors don't have any bulbs or ballasts. There are 2 LED drivers but that's included in the price.

The "Easy" route would be to purchase a Mini H1 kit like this one HERE. It costs ~$270. This kit should be easier than the LED but just isn't the route that I wanted to go. A bracket would still need to be made but the H1 projector is MUCH smaller. Also it has a high beam so you'd have a HID low beam & HID+Halogen highbeams.

3.) [The EASIEST OPTION!!] You don't buy the HID assemblies. Instead buy the H1 kit linked in #2 (~$270) or a D2s kit like this one HERE (~$315). Both of those kits should be able to fit inside the halogen assembly currently on your WK.

I've been going pretty slow on this build since the LED projectors are all very new to me. The H1 kit would probably be able to be done much much quicker.

Options 1 and 2 will yield an OEM looking HID headlight like this (painting is always another option):


Option 3 will look something like this (painting is always another option):




Sooo after that post are you leaning toward having it done by someone or tackling it yourself?? All of these options will increase the amount of light for your WK. Also let me know if you have any other questions. I will help with whatever I can!

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