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post #1 of 18 Old 08-01-2021, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
jbsj33p
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Hello! New to me WK

Hello all!

Thought I would introduce myself to this side of the forum, the WK side. I recently acquired a 2010 WK limited with 130k miles on it, HEMI, tow package, QDII and the works. However no passenger TV. Not new to the Grand Cherokee family this will be my third, I have had a 93ZJ and a 03WJ so far. At this rate I might have to try them all. One of my favorite parts about jeeps is the community following that goes along with them so I will try my best to be active on the forum with my latest addition.

Now to the WK. It was a one owner vehicle serviced extensively at the dealer its whole life. So far I have gone through and changed all the fluids just to be safe as a new to me vehicle and they all looked great. The only issue I am having is after changing the oil I got a code stating the incorrect oil type was used. I'm pretty sure I'm using the correct oil? I put in Pennzoil 5w-20 full synthetic. I've cleared the code but it keeps coming back.

As for repairs I had to change the front driveshaft, the boot was torn on the transfer case side and the CV joint was full of road grit. I was noticing a clunk changing gears and when decelerating. At first I thought it was the front diff bushings but those all looked fine for now. I will say that front driveshaft is a real pain to get out I had to drop the crossmember to get it out finally.

For those of you who have also had to change a front driveshaft on your jeep what brand of driveshaft did you use? I used a new precision driveline, who I think is part of MOOG, from O'reilly and unfortunately I regret that choice. It was not balanced at all, terrible vibrations at highway speeds. I could have taken it back and had it warrantied but if the first one was junk more than likely the second one will be in some way too and they're not easy to get out and replace all the time. I ended up balancing it myself with some hose clamps and trial and error. But in the future I'm going to try and replace it with a better one if that exists.

My last issue is cosmetic that has yet to be solved. I've got the 18" plastic chrome clad wheels with the matching spare wheel and unfortunately the "chrome" has peeled off of the spare wheel. I had 5 matching tires put on it and had hoped to do a 5 tire rotation but found out that spare wheel is real ugly. Has anyone successfully re-chromed these wheels with spray paint or covered them all to match. My other option is to find some take off wrangler wheels but I just paid to have these tires mounted and balanced I would hate to have to do it all over again on a new set of wheels. Continental Terrain Contact A/T BTW.

For the future I would like to put some Bilstein 5100 shocks and struts on it and maybe a new front skid plate (mine is missing). Possibly some LED light upgrades, my night vision isn't great lol. And of course make sure it is reliable mechanically. So far that's all I can think of, most to all of my off-roading is on the beach, don't really need much to do that other than a good compressor and a shovel. Although a roof mounted awning might be nice.

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post #2 of 18 Old 08-04-2021, 05:53 PM
HanSoloBurger
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Hello! Welcome to the WK thread!!
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post #3 of 18 Old 08-06-2021, 10:25 AM
2005JGC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbsj33p View Post
Hello all!

Thought I would introduce myself to this side of the forum, the WK side. I recently acquired a 2010 WK limited with 130k miles on it, HEMI, tow package, QDII and the works. However no passenger TV. Not new to the Grand Cherokee family this will be my third, I have had a 93ZJ and a 03WJ so far. At this rate I might have to try them all. One of my favorite parts about jeeps is the community following that goes along with them so I will try my best to be active on the forum with my latest addition.
Welcome to the WK side!

Quote:
Now to the WK. It was a one owner vehicle serviced extensively at the dealer its whole life. So far I have gone through and changed all the fluids just to be safe as a new to me vehicle and they all looked great. The only issue I am having is after changing the oil I got a code stating the incorrect oil type was used. I'm pretty sure I'm using the correct oil? I put in Pennzoil 5w-20 full synthetic. I've cleared the code but it keeps coming back.
I don't have access to Chrysler flash information, but it appears there is a flash update for an inaccurate wrong oil fault. It uses oil pressure and oil temp to determine engine oil viscosity. So there is potential the oil pressure sender took a dump. 5w20 is correct if that is for sure what went in.

Quote:
As for repairs I had to change the front driveshaft, the boot was torn on the transfer case side and the CV joint was full of road grit. I was noticing a clunk changing gears and when decelerating. At first I thought it was the front diff bushings but those all looked fine for now. I will say that front driveshaft is a real pain to get out I had to drop the crossmember to get it out finally.

For those of you who have also had to change a front driveshaft on your jeep what brand of driveshaft did you use? I used a new precision driveline, who I think is part of MOOG, from O'reilly and unfortunately I regret that choice. It was not balanced at all, terrible vibrations at highway speeds. I could have taken it back and had it warrantied but if the first one was junk more than likely the second one will be in some way too and they're not easy to get out and replace all the time. I ended up balancing it myself with some hose clamps and trial and error. But in the future I'm going to try and replace it with a better one if that exists.
I haven't replaced mine and am working towards a SAS so spending that money will likely never happen as I will just have to have a custom one made. I have pulled both ends of mine apart and cleaned and regreased them to try to keep it working until the day I park the jeep for surgery. Tom Woods makes a double cardan front driveshaft for this which is what I would probably get if mine were to fail before the swap.

It's worth reaching out to O'reilly and see what they can do. I do tend to agree, if the first one was bad, maybe this is not manufacturer worth trusting. I know for CV axles, I installed one to replace a dying axle and it made WAY more noise than what I replaced... It sounded like it was going to explode right out of the box. Advance auto didn't have any more of the same axles anywhere local so they ate the difference to their more expensive option. That axle also sucked, but sucked less. That to say, typically parts stores will do what they can to work with you. They likely don't have any other options for a driveshaft, but seeing what it would be to return it and get your money back or try a different drive shaft (like the tom woods) is worth it.

Quote:
My last issue is cosmetic that has yet to be solved. I've got the 18" plastic chrome clad wheels with the matching spare wheel and unfortunately the "chrome" has peeled off of the spare wheel. I had 5 matching tires put on it and had hoped to do a 5 tire rotation but found out that spare wheel is real ugly. Has anyone successfully re-chromed these wheels with spray paint or covered them all to match. My other option is to find some take off wrangler wheels but I just paid to have these tires mounted and balanced I would hate to have to do it all over again on a new set of wheels. Continental Terrain Contact A/T BTW.
Surf marketplace or craigslist... 5x5 lug pattern. The JK wrangler works. JL uses a bigger wheel stud so I am not sure what people are doing if they are running those. Ive seen WK2 wheels on a wk... You dont have to go for a custom wheel, you can opt for the more OEM+ option of a newer factory wheel. I would assume that rechroming is going to be incredibly expensive and likely not very pretty when all is done considering the corrosion around that is there. stripping the plastic cover to rechrome is potentially even an impossible process.

Quote:
For the future I would like to put some Bilstein 5100 shocks and struts on it and maybe a new front skid plate (mine is missing). Possibly some LED light upgrades, my night vision isn't great lol. And of course make sure it is reliable mechanically. So far that's all I can think of, most to all of my off-roading is on the beach, don't really need much to do that other than a good compressor and a shovel. Although a roof mounted awning might be nice.
The 5100s are great, and a skid plate is always nice. The LED's get a bad rap because people use cheap LED's. More expensive LED's you can rotate the bulb in the mount and this is vital for facing the LED chips at the reflectors properly. Getting a nice factory halogen cutoff is easy and keeps the lights from glaring oncoming traffic in all circumstances that the halogen bulb would not be glaring oncoming traffic. When you just throw LED's in and they are not aimed properly, that is when the light is spread poorly (making your visibility worse) and causing glare for oncoming drivers. You will want the LED resistors for this rig as you do get flickering and led's that stay dimly light when off.

Enjoy it! I love playing on the beach and dunes in mine. An awning would be a nice addition too! Welcome to the WK fam!

2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Work in progress...
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post #4 of 18 Old 08-07-2021, 08:52 PM
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Front driveshaft CVs are known to go bad after the the rubber boot gets torn, I've had the best luck just using a CV rebuild kit on the stock driveshaft. I've done that twice now on 2 different WKs and have put 40k+ miles on each without issues. The first time I needed a replacement I tried to buy a grade A used driveshaft from LKQ and the one I received already had a torn boot.. I sent that one back and ordered the rebuild kit for less than $100.

'05 WK 3.7L QT1 OME MD lift
'09 WK 5.7L QDII Stock for Now
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post #5 of 18 Old 08-10-2021, 06:11 PM
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Welcome to the WK views but every one chimes in enjoy, Here is a link that will assist in Jeep cross sizes and back spacing. I run Sahara Black 18's on 255/70-18 on my 2009 and if I went back to a 17 inch wheel with 245/75-17 are just under 1 inch shorter but back to the original stance but I'm aware
Here is a link that you can change model and year to see their fitment. I thing it's useful. Oop IMO,

https://www.wheel-size.com/

In some cases I like the parts warranty that places like O're, AZ and AA offer but, the placement of the parts make one think about stepping up to a more direct line to a suppling remanufacture that you can take your known half shafts to yes it takes a couple days. and you get badly serviced one.
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post #6 of 18 Old 08-15-2021, 09:19 AM
schgsd
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Moog is not the brand it used to be. At the shop parts come from NAPA or in the case of a driveshaft or other major component we get that direct from dealership. Lifetime warranty means nothing. O'Reilly, AutoZone, VIP or any other big chain, the parts are junk. We would still be charging you labor when that wheel bearing only lasts 4000 miles.
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post #7 of 18 Old 08-16-2021, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
jbsj33p
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Yeah now that I look back I should have rebuilt the Mopar driveshaft but I tossed it, didn't realize the CV joints were rebuildable until after the fact. I definitely don't want to mess with the warranty on the Oreilly's garbage. I was going to get a new Mopar one when I first replaced it but there was quite a wait time for it and I needed to get back on the road.

For the wheels I'm looking for some 18" wrangler take offs I will for sure post some pictures of the new wheels when I find them.

For the LED bulbs didn't want to go cheap, I want them to work properly first and foremost. I have seen Sylvania makes some direct replacement LED bulbs, I think they call them the ZEVO series of bulbs. Has anyone had any experience with these? Do they cause any issues with the computer brain?

Never trust a Jeep that doesn't leak oil.
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post #8 of 18 Old 08-17-2021, 07:00 PM
schgsd
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FWIW a careful search of Rock Auto can at times unearth OEM brand parts for less money. In many cases what they are doing is selling off excess inventory that could be located anywhere in the supply chain.
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post #9 of 18 Old 08-17-2021, 07:38 PM
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I do agree it's a crap shot on buying parts and no matter where you purchase parts your gonna pay for labor except from dealers because of higher prices. And there we are back at the beginning looking for a good product at a more reasonable price.
Besides look at the remaining life time warranties, they've changed over the passed three years not counting this %%##$$ pandemic. because their being adjusted to the quality control over manufacturing. Remember NAFTDA north American free trade agreement well a lot of companies didn't stick to to North American they ventured over seas and just wanted parts for cheap.
Sorry Forum member for ranting...maybe I shouldn't of had the second glass of red...naaa
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post #10 of 18 Old 08-18-2021, 09:07 AM
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On the WK not only can you rebuild the rear CV on the front shaft for not much money (I used the Dorman kit) but you can also find the front CV/plunge style joint as its called (some had a regular ujoint on the front end of the front shaft), no need to replace the OE shaft. These are all aftermarket but in my experience as long as you really pack the joint with grease well and install the boot correctly you will get decent life out of them.
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2007 WK Limited Hemi QDII
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post #11 of 18 Old 09-20-2021, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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I bit the bullet and picked up a Mopar front driveshaft, vibrations are gone. And O reilly took back the old driveshaft and gave me a full refund!

As for the wheels I picked up a set of 18" off a wrangler Sahara. Went to have them mounted and surprise to me they don't clear the calipers in the front. Ive seen a few people on the forum have ground the calipers to fit wheels I will have to play with them and see if I can make the wheels fit. Not a fan of wheels spacers so I would rather grind the calipers.
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post #12 of 18 Old 09-20-2021, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbsj33p View Post
I bit the bullet and picked up a Mopar front driveshaft, vibrations are gone. And O reilly took back the old driveshaft and gave me a full refund!

As for the wheels I picked up a set of 18" off a wrangler Sahara. Went to have them mounted and surprise to me they don't clear the calipers in the front. Ive seen a few people on the forum have ground the calipers to fit wheels I will have to play with them and see if I can make the wheels fit. Not a fan of wheels spacers so I would rather grind the calipers.
There's a little ridge on the calipers that only needs an 1/8th of an inch or so ground off. Some people have taken to using 4-5mm spacers on the front only to get fitment. I have Black Rock Vipers which had the same issue. Tire shop "test fit" and said they were fine so they mounted and balanced the tires. When they did the install and lowered it to the ground, the damn thing wouldnt budge an inch. I was pretty mad until they took care of the calipers for me!
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post #13 of 18 Old 09-20-2021, 05:59 PM
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I just put in a new mopar front driveline too. The stock one lasted 100,000 miles, and was dying gracefully under heavy abuse (full throttle donuts, etc). An aftermarket might grenade at any time. I was toying with rebuilding my driveline, and even bought the rear kit, but I either didn't find a front kit, or just decided it wasn't worth worrying about cheap parts breaking when I'm full throttle and nearly stuck already.

My front boot was cut by a small piece of steel exhaust hanger that was cut off with a little tab left over. It's on the exhaust pipe where it curves to miss the front driveline, but obviously on the driveline side and hard to see. I suspect it was a remnant from the superlift installation that wasn't properly cleaned up. It didn't touch except in extreme contorted positions, but when it did, it looked like a can opener took to my rubber boot.

As for your engine oil, I would use Mopar for most of the fluids in this rig. It isn't worth the tiny savings, and there are various oddball things about the design that doesn't seem to tolerate aftermarket fluids in all situations. If you want the fluid to work exactly the way it was designed, every time in every condition, just buy the fluid it was designed with. I have vehicles where I buy whatever brand fluid is reputable, but this one just gets straight factory stuff from the dealership.

This engine uses the oil to operate the multiple displacement system, turning on and off valves in the engine at perfectly timed intervals. Will it be perfect with your 5w-20? I think your computer can tell the difference, so there is a difference. Again, just not worth the worry for me. The transmission, transfer case, differentials, and power steering are all weird designs doing things a little different than normal. I give them the fluid that was designed for them too.

Good luck with your new rig. I love the QD2 system.

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ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #14 of 18 Old 09-21-2021, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbsj33p View Post
I bit the bullet and picked up a Mopar front driveshaft, vibrations are gone. And O reilly took back the old driveshaft and gave me a full refund!

As for the wheels I picked up a set of 18" off a wrangler Sahara. Went to have them mounted and surprise to me they don't clear the calipers in the front. I've seen a few people on the forum have ground the calipers to fit wheels I will have to play with them and see if I can make the wheels fit. Not a fan of wheels spacers so I would rather grind the calipers.
I have Sahara 18" wheels on my 2009 with no clearance issues, Here is a link that covers years and model jeeps and their back spacings.
IMO grinding calipers I question , so you grind for clearance what happens when you pick up a rock or pack it with mud. Yes your caliper will act as a wiper which is ok or less damaging with mud and will manage with rocks and gravel but grinding clearance. Good luck on tracking why this is happening or a need. I will post the year that my Sahara's came off of. I'm sure others will chime in on both sides. The need to grind and why.

https://www.wheel-size.com/
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post #15 of 18 Old 09-21-2021, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 3Recon View Post
I have Sahara 18" wheels on my 2009 with no clearance issues, Here is a link that covers years and model jeeps and their back spacings.
IMO grinding calipers I question , so you grind for clearance what happens when you pick up a rock or pack it with mud. Yes your caliper will act as a wiper which is ok or less damaging with mud and will manage with rocks and gravel but grinding clearance. Good luck on tracking why this is happening or a need. I will post the year that my Sahara's came off of. I'm sure others will chime in on both sides. The need to grind and why.

https://www.wheel-size.com/
Its not actually the caliper that is being ground off. Its part of the caliper's bracket. I found a photo to demonstrate. The bracket might lose a slight amount of structural rigidity in the process, but likely not enough to make a huge difference since its only approximately 1/8th inch on the outside of a completely solid bit of steel.
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