CV axles - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-16-2020, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
underscore
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CV axles

My Jeep doesn't seem to like the cold snap we've been having and I get a bit of what I think is CV noise from the drivers front corner when I first get going in the morning. Presuming this means my CV's will need replacing in the near future what else should I do at the same time (diff seals?) and what brands should I avoid? I've seen a bunch of posts about bad experiences with sub-par replacements but the search function doesn't like "cv".



I get all my parts from RockAuto so Surtrack/Trakmotive, APWI, or Cardone are the options unless there's another brand available from another reseller that's better.



Am I correct in assuming the front right is the same for both eLSD and normal diffs? I see different listings for the left but only one option for the right.


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post #2 of 12 Old 01-16-2020, 04:18 PM
Rtbrjason
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I think all the aftermarket cv axles are basically junk. Even the Mopar rebuilds are a no go for me. I’d get a new Mopar unit if you don’t want to do the job again. You may or may not need axle seals. The driver side is most likely to get destroyed in the process. The passenger side should be fine.

If your suspension or inner/outer tie rods need replacing, it’s a good time to do that as well as front wheel bearings if needed. It’s also a good time to do the brakes if they need it, since it will be mostly apart.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-16-2020, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
underscore
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I've already done the brakes and wheel bearings and front suspension so that should all come out nicely at least. Tie rods I haven't done yet but since they result in needing an alignment I'm leaving them for now until either they or the control arm bushings needs to be done.



New Mopar axles are just shy of a grand before shipping here in Canada. I'm not too keen to spend that on a vehicle that's only worth maybe $8k and I might be selling in a year anyways (don't get me started on how I finally got this thing the way I want it and haven't actually gotten to use it for anything yet). Do the aftermarket ones last a few years or are they crap right out of the box?

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post #4 of 12 Old 01-16-2020, 06:46 PM
SteveROntario
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I would get a junk yard OEM shaft. That is what I did and I'm very happy with it. One shaft is shared between both differentials and one side is different.

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post #5 of 12 Old 01-16-2020, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
underscore
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How can you tell if it's any good outside of the vehicle? Did you rebuilt it before install or just pop it in? The junkyard here doesn't get much in terms of "newer" vehicles so I'd have to pay for shipping but they'd be <$150 each that way.

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post #6 of 12 Old 01-16-2020, 08:26 PM
SteveROntario
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You visually inspect the rubber for damage and check the motion of the joints. The joints should move smoothly through their range of motion without any slack. If you grasp the shaft on either side of the joint and twist in opposition directions it must be free of play. You can do this on your Jeep if you lift the wheel off the ground but you need to use stands and go under it.

I think the rate for used non-ELSD shafts is $50 and $70 for ELSD around here but you would want to know the vehicle mileage and specify that it needs to be an OEM part. They charge $20 flat rate if they need to get it from another wrecker. If it's bad you refuse it...I would not mail order.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-17-2020, 10:44 AM
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Ha I don't think anyone's Jeep is loving this weather. I'm also getting some clicky grind on turns from whatever side I'm turning into Before she warms up. Wasn't certain but after reading I'm sure it's CVs. I have some API (I think) sittting in my garage I got on RA on sale a while ago for like under $100 for both. Gonna be a spring time job.. Unless the current ones explode before that.
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-17-2020, 11:21 AM
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I wouldn't worry about them just yet, but maybe keep an ear on them. When I decided mind needed done, they would grumble and sound 'chunky' when I put any power through the front end (slippery road, heavy throttle). I tore one apart out of curiosity, didn't see any evidence of imminent death. New CV's did fix the problem and it's been at least 2 years now.

I bought brand new Cardone units and they've been just fine. For the low cost of them and they've gone over 2 years so far, I'd buy them again if they blew up today.
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-17-2020, 11:44 AM
2005JGC
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I think I have an advance auto axle on my drivers side for a year of beating the crap out of it. I have some clicking on that side when I load up in 4lo and it bothers me to the point its always on my mind.... BUT, I keep driving on it and its not getting any worse than the first day I put it in. I have been keeping my eye open for another WK to build so I am half expecting to walk into an entirely new-to-me hopefully all still original drive train.

The only problem I have noticed is at full droop, the outer boot is pulled down into the clevis bushing mount and rubs as the axle rotates. It has also done this since day 1 and has not rubbed enough to make it through the boot.

At 1k dollars for an axle, I would consider RCV's before the OEM!

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post #10 of 12 Old 01-17-2020, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
underscore
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Thanks for all the input guys. I'm not rushing to replace them as it only does it a couple of times a day at most, but I don't want to wait to gather info in case it suddenly gets really bad. I had wheel bearings that were noisy for at least 20k km before they started to make noise while turning so hopefully the CVs will be equally slow to die.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 2005JGC View Post
At 1k dollars for an axle, I would consider RCV's before the OEM!

It'd be 1k for the pair. Up here a pair of the RCV's will cost $3400 before shipping. That's almost half what I paid for the whole Jeep when I bought it, I'd be slapping the cheapest ones possible in and selling it before I'd be willing to spend that much just on two CV axles.
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post #11 of 12 Old 01-17-2020, 01:13 PM
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I've never had the drivers side let go yet ( **knock on wood) but I'm on my 3rd passenger one . Factory unit lasted 7 years/ 100km, replacement ( done under 3rd party warranty so i don't know mfg) lasted 6 years/110k , the Trackmotive I bought from RA is still good at just over 1 year . Limited lifetime warranty at $65 Cdn + shipping = $100. 2 hour job in my garage so not worth worrying about IMO.

My personal preference.. but I would install a new "anything" over rebuilt "anything" all the time..
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-17-2020, 02:24 PM
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I went to the Dealer and got a Mopar re manufactured CV axle for about $250. The Dealer is not going to sell you third party junk.
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