CRD fuel injector O-ring failure - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 64 Old 01-26-2012, 12:35 PM
jtanelson
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Jediknight, the GC has 85K miles on. I haven't noticed a re-gen before - what do i look for? Today was colder than normal (0 deg C) and the smoke was a lot more noticeable. Is there a cold start sensor which may be trying to pump more fuel in? could the DPF be trying to re-gen all the time?

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post #47 of 64 Old 01-26-2012, 12:37 PM
jtanelson
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oh and the smell is like Kerosene (oil fired AGA). Very noticeable.
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post #48 of 64 Old 01-26-2012, 02:40 PM
jediknight
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The main objective for the regen cycle consist of burning out the diesel soot that has been traped in the DPF. This function is triggered by the ECU when two "known(so far)" conditions are respected. First one is through a differential pressure mesurement that is done through two ports on the DPF, one before and after. If the pressure differential is getting to high ( based on a predefined tables recorded in the ECU mapping ) a regen cycle is trigered. The second known condition is the mileage. Every 750 miles or so (i think it varies from one vehicule to an other but still in the same range ) the ECU launchs a regen cycle based on the last regeneration. At the end of each regeneration a differential pressure lecture is done by the ECU in order to register the data and compares it with a predefined estimated value calculated by the manifacturer. If the difference is to big between the two values a MIL will probably pop... telling you that the DPF is full.

The regen cycle was developped so the owner of the vehicle never feels its happening. Some says that during a cold weather temp ( like -15 here in Canada ) and when the engine is about to reach the operational temperature (half way between cold and the normal temp range) and you enter in a regen cycle the exhaust will sound like coughing a low RPM and the exhaust tone will sound deeper. Probability you encounter all those conditions are pretty thin if we can say. Also, if you have an OBD II gauge device you may be able to read the Cat1 Bank1 sensor for any raise in temperature ... that will also indicate a regen cycle.

I hope that helps you... but if you're due for a DPF change, you're MIL light will pop anytime soon if not already.
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post #49 of 64 Old 12-19-2014, 06:29 PM
denniscdunbar
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Removing Diesel Injector Leak Line

Quote:
Originally Posted by nostaw22 View Post
Unfortunately the O-rings aren't sold separately. As I recall you need to get the entire fuel return hose set... If you go to an auto parts place with the O-ring you may be able to find something that will work, but I'm not sure.

You should check the injectors are tight... I had a loose bolt causing an exhaust leak under the hood because one injector wasn't tight.

JW

I was able to purchase fuel leak line o-rings from my local Jeep dealer. I'm not sure exactly how to remove the fitting. Can someone explain this as I'm replacing my leaking fuel injector and need to disconnect the leak line in the process.








http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...modelYear=2008



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post #50 of 64 Old 12-20-2014, 10:07 PM
Tango.
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FYI ... he was talking about the 0-rings on the rubber diesel return line, which are not sold seperate and you have to buy the whole return line"s".

You are talking about the copper o-ring that sits at the bottom of the fuel injector.

Life is hard-John Wayne
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post #51 of 64 Old 12-21-2014, 08:27 AM
denniscdunbar
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I was able to order both o-rings directly from my local Jeep dealer here in White Rock, BC Canada. I forgot to pick them up yesterday but will post pics and price on Monday. The parts guy said he has never had anyone ask for the o-ring for the fuel leak line before and said that the Service department never replace them when they remove fuel injectors. He was the one that suggested I get a couple if I damage mine. We both agreed that just like when you replace the oil filter and replace the o-rings, this should be changed at the same time.

You can purchase the o-ring here on the web.
http://europarts-sd.com/item.asp?PID=2197

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...category=20311

Dennis
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post #52 of 64 Old 12-22-2014, 07:12 PM
denniscdunbar
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O-rings Replaced

Quote:
Originally Posted by denniscdunbar View Post
I was able to order both o-rings directly from my local Jeep dealer here in White Rock, BC Canada. I forgot to pick them up yesterday but will post pics and price on Monday. The parts guy said he has never had anyone ask for the o-ring for the fuel leak line before and said that the Service department never replace them when they remove fuel injectors. He was the one that suggested I get a couple if I damage mine. We both agreed that just like when you replace the oil filter and replace the o-rings, this should be changed at the same time.

You can purchase the o-ring here on the web.
http://europarts-sd.com/item.asp?PID=2197

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...category=20311

Dennis

Replaced 2 leaking Fuel Injector o-rings. Took about 2 hrs to replace o-rings and clean-up all the burnt diesel fuel. All is good now.








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post #53 of 64 Old 08-16-2015, 05:35 PM
r_unda
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Sorry to bring this back but I have a leak on one of my injectors. Is there a write up or a link with step by step instructions for the o-rings replacement? I am thinking in replacing the o-rings in all 6 injectors since I already going to be under the hood. My WK has over 140,000 miles and plan to keep it for long.

Thanks in advance for your help.

My Jeep isn't getting older, it's getting newer part by part

2011 WK2 HEMI 4x4 Overland
2007 WK CRD 4x4 Limited GDE Tuned
1998 TJ SE
1973 CJ5 - YJ OME 2.5" lift, 33" tires
1951 Willys truck
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post #54 of 64 Old 08-17-2015, 07:57 PM
Tango.
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do a search and you'll find it.

The highlights are:
There is a special injector puller which is very handy. Mine came out by hand.
The copper O-rings are listed above and the bolts you need to buy also. They are a one time use item.
Take careful removing the return line plastic clips, if you break any of them you need to buy the whole return line. They kind of work the opposite you press them down not up.
Pre soak them 12 to 24 hours in injector cleaner before you take them out, it's a lot easier that way.
I would remove and re-install the glow plugs with copper anti-seaze from napa (good to 1600 degrees)
Grind down a solid aluminum rod to pluck the O-rings out. It's also ised to plug the hole to soak the cylinder over night.
I personally think these copper rings need to be replaced every 60,000 miles.

Figure 3 days.
Soak; pull the injectors and soak cylinders; replace and go.

Make sure you do all 6.. the rings are all the same.

Life is hard-John Wayne
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post #55 of 64 Old 08-17-2015, 09:49 PM
r_unda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TangoTango View Post
do a search and you'll find it.
I did a search here and didn't find much info. I did found some MB forums about this issue using the search words "black death"

Quote:
Originally Posted by TangoTango View Post

The highlights are:
There is a special injector puller which is very handy. Mine came out by hand.
The copper O-rings are listed above and the bolts you need to buy also. They are a one time use item.
Take careful removing the return line plastic clips, if you break any of them you need to buy the whole return line. They kind of work the opposite you press them down not up.
Pre soak them 12 to 24 hours in injector cleaner before you take them out, it's a lot easier that way.
I would remove and re-install the glow plugs with copper anti-seaze from napa (good to 1600 degrees)
Grind down a solid aluminum rod to pluck the O-rings out. It's also ised to plug the hole to soak the cylinder over night.
I personally think these copper rings need to be replaced every 60,000 miles.

Figure 3 days.
Soak; pull the injectors and soak cylinders; replace and go.

Make sure you do all 6.. the rings are all the same.
Thanks for this info, very useful

My Jeep isn't getting older, it's getting newer part by part

2011 WK2 HEMI 4x4 Overland
2007 WK CRD 4x4 Limited GDE Tuned
1998 TJ SE
1973 CJ5 - YJ OME 2.5" lift, 33" tires
1951 Willys truck
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post #56 of 64 Old 08-18-2015, 01:17 PM
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post #57 of 64 Old 09-02-2015, 02:36 PM
sjgault
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The Mercedes dealer repaired the leaking number 3 fuel injector on a Jeep Grand Cherokee Loredo 2.7 CRD and evidently stripped the bolt. I was notified they are doing an insert and got some engineering shop to come do it. They said they refitted the seals on all 5 fuel injectors. They said they test drove the car twice after that and say the water pump packed up afterwards. They now want R6,360 to replace it. Is there anything they could have done with the head or otherwise that could cause the water pump to fail, perhaps when drilling or tapping the bolt hole?
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post #58 of 64 Old 06-13-2016, 02:04 AM
ggrassmid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango. View Post
do a search and you'll find it.

The highlights are:
There is a special injector puller which is very handy. Mine came out by hand.
The copper O-rings are listed above and the bolts you need to buy also. They are a one time use item.
Take careful removing the return line plastic clips, if you break any of them you need to buy the whole return line. They kind of work the opposite you press them down not up.
Pre soak them 12 to 24 hours in injector cleaner before you take them out, it's a lot easier that way.
I would remove and re-install the glow plugs with copper anti-seaze from napa (good to 1600 degrees)
Grind down a solid aluminum rod to pluck the O-rings out. It's also ised to plug the hole to soak the cylinder over night.
I personally think these copper rings need to be replaced every 60,000 miles.

Figure 3 days.
Soak; pull the injectors and soak cylinders; replace and go.

Make sure you do all 6.. the rings are all the same.

Tango, when you say soak with injector cleaner, what type are you talking about? Power Service? Or just general injector cleaner like one of these?


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post #59 of 64 Old 06-13-2016, 06:17 PM
Tango.
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Like this for example,

Soaked the outside of the injectors over night. Then pulled the injector.
Then took a aluminum rode and round the end to a point and stuck it in the injector whole.. then soaked the cylinder overnight.
Then cleaned out the fluid, wiped the injector cylinder clean and reinstalled them.

I did 3 then a couple weeks later the other side leaked, so I would recommend doing all 6.
took 3 days. ... soak over night .. pull and soak cylinders... clean and reinstall

and like mentioned above the return clips you pull up on the ring thing to release them.. that took a while to figure out.




Life is hard-John Wayne
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post #60 of 64 Old 06-13-2016, 06:57 PM
ggrassmid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango.
Like this for example, Soaked the outside of the injectors over night. Then pulled the injector. Then took a aluminum rode and round the end to a point and stuck it in the injector whole.. then soaked the cylinder overnight. Then cleaned out the fluid, wiped the injector cylinder clean and reinstalled them. I did 3 then a couple weeks later the other side leaked, so I would recommend doing all 6. took 3 days. ... soak over night .. pull and soak cylinders... clean and reinstall and like mentioned above the return clips you pull up on the ring thing to release them.. that took a while to figure out.
Great! What size aluminum rod? I need to get those picked up now. I have 6 copper washers, 6 hold down bolts, and 6 return line o-rings.


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