CRD bypass oil filter installed, part 1 - JeepForum.com
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 26 Old 07-10-2008, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
boxcab
Registered User
 
boxcab's Avatar
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Auburn, Wash.
Posts: 136
CRD bypass oil filter installed, part 1

Well, I've finally put the bypass filter in. I had just gotten a bad report on the Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 after 9500 miles, so this was the opportune moment.

I actually mounted the bypass filter itself some months ago, but the actual hookup I put off until circumstances warranted it.

Originally, I intended to secure the mount, an Amsoil BMK-11, to existing bolts or holes in the engine bay using tubular struts. However, this would be complicated and, moreover, I wanted easy access to the filter for changing. Also, I wanted to restore the easy oil-sampling method of simply opening a tap, so I saved the sampling petcock from the dual-remote bypass setup I had in my '96 ZJ.

The sliding bracket to which the mount is attached is made from 80/20 aluminum extrusion. I had to cut a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate to attach the mount to the bracket. A knob to lift the slide and a lever clamp are standard jig and die fittings.

All of the hose fittings are 37 JIC 1/4" type in stainless steel. The hoses are smooth-bore PTFE with stainless steel fittings and braid. Wherever NPT threads are used, Loctite 545 Thread Sealant is applied.

The first thing I modified was the oil filter cap. This is simply drilling and tapping for a 1/8" NPT taper pipe thread...



...applying Permatex "The Right Stuff" to the adapter threads (not the Loctite, it's not for plastics), and screwing the adapter in until snug.



The adapter has a female JIC swivel. The reason for this is to allow the cap to be removed without removing either the adapter or the supply hose.



The threaded portion barely intrudes into the cap, and is positioned directly over the relief valve contained in the filter element armature, without interference. Here's the whole full-flow filter assembly, ready for installation:



Replacing the oil-pan drain plug: The drain plug is a metric bolt, size M14 x 1.5 x 30mm long, fine pitch. The adapter has the metric thread and an o-ring inside a washer seal on one end, and a male 1/4" JIC flare fitting on the other:



Here are two photos of it installed in the pan with an additional right-angle JIC swivel fitting connecting the return line. Sorry about the quality, but I had to shoot these "blind"...





End of part 1.

Due to system limitations on the number of images, I'll continue this in "CRD bypass oil filter installed, part 2".


Doug

2007 WK CRD
boxcab is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 26 Old 07-10-2008, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
boxcab
Registered User
 
boxcab's Avatar
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Auburn, Wash.
Posts: 136
CRD bypass oil filter installed, part 2

Continued from previous post...

Installing the full-flow filter: Okay, you know the routine for filling the CRD with oil. Step one is to pour about half very slowly down the oil filter housing:



Then we install the filter assembly and attach the supply line:



The bypass filter assembly: Here we see the bypass bracket in the raised or what I like to call the "service" position, ready to install the Amsoil EaBP-110 filter. Notice the brass orifice piece in the filter stud:



The two-quart filter installed. Yes, it took a full two quarts to prime!



The clamp is released, the slide lowered, the clamp is snugged and we are ready to run:



Check for leaks! First start-up on a warm-ish engine shows 30 psi or 2 bar at the bypass filter. For oil sampling, all I have to do is raise the bracket, hold the sample bottle under the petcock to the right of the pressure gauge, and Bob's your uncle!



Observations:
  • I am not too happy with the drain plug adapter. The factory plug, as noted earlier, is 30mm long, while the adapter is only a third of that. That wouldn't trouble me except that the opening of the drain hole is slightly recessed. As a result, the adapter is in only a little more than a singe turn! It's snug, and should be fine, but I'm ordering some bolts to drill and tap for a more secure fitting.

    A similar concern is with the cap. I could add a 1/8"-27 round nut, possibly filed-down to reduce diameter, to add extra physical security to the oil-cap adapter.

    The engine is decidedly quieter on the Amsoil AFL. I will be sending a baseline sample off for analysis shortly. BTW, it took the entire case, 12 quarts to fill the system, with the oil level about 2/3's of the way up between the marks.

I welcome your questions or comments!

Doug

2007 WK CRD
boxcab is offline  
post #3 of 26 Old 07-10-2008, 04:20 PM
----
Guest
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 682
Awesome! I helped install a bypass system on Mister17_5_9's Cummins-powered Ram. It really does help the engine idle quieter.

You expressed some concern with the drain plug adapter, have you observed any moisture or leaks in the area since the install?
---- is offline  
 
post #4 of 26 Old 07-10-2008, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
boxcab
Registered User
 
boxcab's Avatar
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Auburn, Wash.
Posts: 136
Thanks. No, bone dry. Those fittings really need only be snug to be leak-proof. The only seepage is around the skid plate drain holes, which are still weeping oil from the last oil drain. I'm tired of crawling under there or else I'd wet everything down with Simple Green and hose it off.

Doug

2007 WK CRD
boxcab is offline  
post #5 of 26 Old 07-11-2008, 11:05 AM
Hangloose
Registered User
 
Hangloose's Avatar
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 218
I am curious to know what the bad report was on the Mobil 1 Esp after 9500 miles ?

The instalation looks great and no doubt does a better job than the stock filter. Kind of reminds me of a marine engine auxilary oil filter. Is the oil pressure still within parameters when hot and cold ?

I was also reading a post on the Pro Vent but after talking to a friend who is an engineer at Mercedes Benz in Berlin, where the 320 Cdi / 3.0 CRD engines are produced said that the extensive testing showed this engine was designed to last 120,000 miles prior to an intercooler / intake system cleanout and that providing the oil / filter and servicing schedules were adhered to [ specified oil ], the engine is capable of lasting 500,000 miles. Turbo lasts up to 200,000 miles.

Everything else will fail before then and most of us will be in a Hydrogen powered Grand Cherokee by 2020.....
Hangloose is offline  
post #6 of 26 Old 07-11-2008, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
boxcab
Registered User
 
boxcab's Avatar
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Auburn, Wash.
Posts: 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hangloose View Post
I am curious to know what the bad report was on the Mobil 1 Esp after 9500 miles ?
I posted this in another thread, but the TBN had fallen to about 2 and the oxidation was in the critical range. What's odd is that the last 3K miles were mostly highway miles during a vacation, where I also got my be mileage, over 28 mpg.

We'll see how the Amsoil AFL holds up. Granted, there's 20% more in circulation now, so perhaps I'll have to weigh the results with that in mind.

As a side note, I stopped by my local NAPA and they had Lubro-Moly (actually Liqui-Moly) Longtime High Tech 5W-30 which meets M-B 229.51.

Doug

2007 WK CRD
boxcab is offline  
post #7 of 26 Old 07-11-2008, 04:40 PM
Hangloose
Registered User
 
Hangloose's Avatar
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by boxcab View Post
the TBN had fallen to about 2 and the oxidation was in the critical range. What's odd is that the last 3K miles were mostly highway miles during a vacation, where I also got my be mileage, over 28 mpg.

.
Thats really surprising for Mobil 1. Saying that, I used to have a Saab 9-5 which always had Mobil 1 every 6000 miles but suffered from a badly designed wire mesh on the oil pick up which sludged up and starved the engine of oil. Once I replaced the block, I always took the sump off to clean the pick up every second oil change.

I wonder if there are some 3.0 Crd engines that have a fault that causes the oil to degrade faster. I noticed on a few posts a TSB for new crank bearings where the engine is making a rattle / ticking noise. I hope to have some feedback from Mercedes.

One thing I do know is that the Mercedes engines produced in Stuttgart are better and less stressed than Berlin engines. Thats why I would never consider increasing power by re-mapping ecu software on the 3.0 Crd....
Hangloose is offline  
post #8 of 26 Old 07-11-2008, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
boxcab
Registered User
 
boxcab's Avatar
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Auburn, Wash.
Posts: 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hangloose View Post
Saying that, I used to have a Saab 9-5 which always had Mobil 1 every 6000 miles but suffered from a badly designed wire mesh on the oil pick up which sludged up and starved the engine of oil. Once I replaced the block, I always took the sump off to clean the pick up every second oil change.
Um, why would there be sludge when running synthetic oil? I have an '87 Mitsubishi SPX p/u with the 2.6 Hemi, nothing but synthetic (Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil), and it's as clean as it was when new. I think your Saab had another problem that caused the sludge.

Doug

2007 WK CRD
boxcab is offline  
post #9 of 26 Old 07-11-2008, 10:08 PM
Ridin' Around
Registered User
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Rochester, Illinois
Posts: 2,208
What a great thread. Thank you for sharing. This thread should be moved into a tech write-up. Mods please take note!
Ridin' Around is offline  
post #10 of 26 Old 07-12-2008, 10:17 AM
Hangloose
Registered User
 
Hangloose's Avatar
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by boxcab View Post
Um, why would there be sludge when running synthetic oil? I have an '87 Mitsubishi SPX p/u with the 2.6 Hemi, nothing but synthetic (Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil), and it's as clean as it was when new. I think your Saab had another problem that caused the sludge.
It was a known problem on the 2.3 HOT turbo engine. I used to drive it through Germany on the derestricted autobahns at 158Mph...thats why I changed oil frequently. It had a Hirsch upgrade at 286 Hp.

However, due to oil starvation what oil was left in the engine and turbo just got burned out. There was no evidence of gasket leaks or head cracks the crank just seized up due to oil stravation and that was that.

Saab were covering younger models with less mileage but mine was getting on a bit with 110,000 miles.....

Getting off the post here but thats why I was curious why the Mobil 1 in your Crd was in a bad way after only 9500 miles.....

So now I am very careful to idle the engine before shut down, take it easy when its cold and change the oil frequently especially after a long high speed run. I got my WH Crd to an indicated 131 Mph but Gps reading was 126 mph. Did not hang around long at that speed and rpm's.... It will happily cruise at 90-100 Mph through Europe. Just love tking the GC on a longer run. Its a great car with the Crd engine and the QD2 is in a league of its own on the slippery stuff.
Hangloose is offline  
post #11 of 26 Old 07-12-2008, 10:38 AM
----
Guest
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 682
Quote:
Originally Posted by boxcab View Post
I have an '87 Mitsubishi SPX p/u with the 2.6 Hemi, nothing but synthetic (Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil), and it's as clean as it was when new.
Hey! You've got a G54B?! Or is the N/A a different code? -Anywho, I used to have an '87 Quest TSi. -Neat stuff.
---- is offline  
post #12 of 26 Old 07-12-2008, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
boxcab
Registered User
 
boxcab's Avatar
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Auburn, Wash.
Posts: 136
Yeah, G54B. I wish it had the Starion's fuel injection. Really wish they had offered the 2.4l turbodiesel as an option, but those were discontinued 2 or 3 years before. Blew a head gasket a couple of years ago. I've got the parts, but not the time...

Doug

2007 WK CRD
boxcab is offline  
post #13 of 26 Old 07-12-2008, 07:28 PM
magellan
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hangloose View Post
It was a known problem on the 2.3 HOT turbo engine. I used to drive it through Germany on the derestricted autobahns at 158Mph...thats why I changed oil frequently. It had a Hirsch upgrade at 286 Hp.

However, due to oil starvation what oil was left in the engine and turbo just got burned out. There was no evidence of gasket leaks or head cracks the crank just seized up due to oil stravation and that was that.

Saab were covering younger models with less mileage but mine was getting on a bit with 110,000 miles.....

Getting off the post here but thats why I was curious why the Mobil 1 in your Crd was in a bad way after only 9500 miles.....

So now I am very careful to idle the engine before shut down, take it easy when its cold and change the oil frequently especially after a long high speed run. I got my WH Crd to an indicated 131 Mph but Gps reading was 126 mph. Did not hang around long at that speed and rpm's.... It will happily cruise at 90-100 Mph through Europe. Just love tking the GC on a longer run. Its a great car with the Crd engine and the QD2 is in a league of its own on the slippery stuff.
Sorry to extend the off topic conversation, but my other car is a 99 9-5. I have pulled the sump and cleaned it and the pick up screen. In my case, there was minimal signs of sludge, but I have owne dthe car from 32k miles and change the oil every 3,500. I use Redline in it and also run a little Chem-tool B12 through it before draining the oil. What is interesting about the Saab is that it holds just over 4 liters of oil. Not much consider the amount of heat generated by the turbo. I have a little Alfa Romeo that holds nearly 6 quarts.
magellan is offline  
post #14 of 26 Old 07-13-2008, 03:37 PM
Hangloose
Registered User
 
Hangloose's Avatar
2006 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by magellan View Post
Sorry to extend the off topic conversation, but my other car is a 99 9-5. I have pulled the sump and cleaned it and the pick up screen. In my case, there was minimal signs of sludge, but I have owne dthe car from 32k miles and change the oil every 3,500. I use Redline in it and also run a little Chem-tool B12 through it before draining the oil. What is interesting about the Saab is that it holds just over 4 liters of oil. Not much consider the amount of heat generated by the turbo. I have a little Alfa Romeo that holds nearly 6 quarts.
You're right. The oil capacity on the Saab was very low for a Turbo car.....

Its nice to know that the CRD GC has almost 10 Litres.
Hangloose is offline  
post #15 of 26 Old 07-17-2008, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
boxcab
Registered User
 
boxcab's Avatar
2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Auburn, Wash.
Posts: 136
Getting back on topic, here are a couple of pictures of the bypass filter assembly in its final form prior to installation. I forgot I took these pictures, and only discovered them clearing out a flashcard.






Doug

2007 WK CRD
boxcab is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Jeep Forums Replies Last Post
Cone air filter installed on CRD boxcab WK Grand Cherokee & XK Commander Forum 27 09-19-2008 07:42 AM
installed k&n filter today.... crod WK Grand Cherokee & XK Commander Forum 4 01-13-2008 09:06 PM
filter sock part 2 97 ZJ Steve ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum 5 06-15-2007 08:39 AM
By-Pass Filter Installed cherokee04 ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum 8 02-14-2005 01:03 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome