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post #1 of 15 Old 04-06-2020, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
SteveROntario
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Brake Job Videos

I took care of my front brakes yesterday and put together a video. There are other videos on YouTube available which are also good but I figured I'd film it anyway as everybody does it a bit differently. The intro is 10 minutes.
I drove for about 20 minutes after doing the brake job and the coating was worn off the rotors by then.

I am going to do the rear brakes sometime this week. They are starting to make a burning rubber smell if that is possible? The parking brake shoes fell out 3 years ago and I think I lost the friction material off a pad a couple weeks ago.


2013 Civic, 2009 Suzuki DRZ-400SM, 2008.5 Grand Cherokee CRD, 1991 Dodge B250, 1934 Hupmobile 417W
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post #2 of 15 Old 04-06-2020, 10:28 AM
LouC
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If you have trouble getting the rear rotor off make sure first that you completely loosen the emergency brake adjustment. I used this trick for getting the rear rotors off. First spray around the hub and lug stud holes with PB Blaster, Kroil or Free all. Let it soak in. Then get a couple of bolts the same thread as the caliper bolts. Leave the inner pad in place and use the bolts to push the rotor off, just tighten a little at a time and just tap the rotor with a hammer in between the lug studs (put the nuts on to protect the threads) worked like a charm.

PS I found my parking brake shoes were still in good shape but bought the shoes and the springs etc anyway. Maybe next time.

I used the OTC brake drum/rotor puller on the front rotors and it popped them right off. Did not have to use a hammer at all which is a plus, no potential damage to wheel bearings. My front rotors were original and pretty rusted up.
PS....coat the hub and inner mating surface of the rotor with anti seize and they will come right off next time.
Been doing this on the ZJ, lost count of how many brake jobs I have done over 22 years of ownership.

For the WK I used all OE jeep parts, because the guy at the parts counter who knows me gives me a discount if he is there when I come in.

the other job I did on the WK this past year was the rear CV on the front driveshaft. I also found a replacement for the front CV plunge style joint if that ever goes bad but it is still fine. The rear one I used the Dorman kit on. I was able to change it without even removing the driveshaft. Just left the front end connected and let it hang down a bit on the crossmember. The rear joint came off easily because the boot was not leaking that long so it wasn't all corroded up yet. Just a bit tricky to get both tin covers and all the bolts lined up. Jeep wanted $774 for a new shaft, lol. I'd get a Tom Woods double cardan before doing that, but I thought I'd try the CV replacement and see how it went. So far so good, did it over the summer.
For the ZJ I use the best aftermarket I can find...
Attached Thumbnails
brake rotor removal with bolts.jpg   WK new front brakes.jpg  

2017 JK Unlimited Sport 6 spd
2007 WK Limited Hemi QDII
1998 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
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post #3 of 15 Old 04-07-2020, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
SteveROntario
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Thanks for the reply Lou. The hardware stores have been forced to close and only permit curbside pickup so I wasn't able to source the bolts you used.
I did have enough scrap steel to build an OTC 6980 rotor puller tonight based on a wooden version a GMC guy built on YouTube. I would have preferred to buy the real deal but we'll see how it works.
Attached Thumbnails
vlcsnap-2020-04-07-21h37m58s807.jpg   vlcsnap-2020-04-07-21h36m08s862.jpg  

2013 Civic, 2009 Suzuki DRZ-400SM, 2008.5 Grand Cherokee CRD, 1991 Dodge B250, 1934 Hupmobile 417W
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post #4 of 15 Old 04-07-2020, 11:25 PM
LouC
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That looks great. Let us know how well it works! Necessity is the mother of invention as they say....

2017 JK Unlimited Sport 6 spd
2007 WK Limited Hemi QDII
1998 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
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post #5 of 15 Old 04-08-2020, 07:04 AM
brent_m
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I feel for you guys in the rust belt.

I would consider replacing the caliper guide pins, rubber bands and the dust boots while you have the bracket off. I neglected mine and paid the price of doing the job twice.

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post #6 of 15 Old 04-08-2020, 07:24 AM
Brit30-06
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Hi Steve
Thank you for the great vids you are making. Really helpful.
My local mechanic who replaced my rear discs, pads and handbrake shoes made a complete pigs ear of the handbrake. He said the shoes for the handbrake were I nightmare to change out. Took him three attempts to get it right.
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post #7 of 15 Old 04-09-2020, 06:34 PM
LouC
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I did the emergency brake shoes on the ZJ and it wasn't hard just a little fiddley. The one on my wife's old '98 Subaru on the other hand was very difficult, none of the normal drum brake tools fit right. My WKs were still ok so I let sleeping dogs lie...

2017 JK Unlimited Sport 6 spd
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post #8 of 15 Old 04-12-2020, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
SteveROntario
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I got the brake job done on the rear of the Jeep yesterday. The brake tool worked fine, you just need to go slow and hold the pressure on the rotors while tapping them.
I need to circle back and work on the parking brake adjustment. I feel that I have some drag but need two jack-stands to adjust things properly. I have to say that it takes some patience and strength to get those parking shoes back on.

2013 Civic, 2009 Suzuki DRZ-400SM, 2008.5 Grand Cherokee CRD, 1991 Dodge B250, 1934 Hupmobile 417W
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post #9 of 15 Old 04-12-2020, 02:03 PM
LouC
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Ok here’s how I got the emergency brake adjustment right on the ZJ and I think it will work on the WK....the thing that throws you off is the drag from the disc brake shoes and differential. What I did:
Compress disc brake caliper pistons with large c clamp to reduce drag
Blocked front wheels front and rear
Shift auto trans to neutral
Put rear axle up on jack stands
Then adjust parking brake shoes for light drag
This works better because you can feel the drag from the park brake shoes better

2017 JK Unlimited Sport 6 spd
2007 WK Limited Hemi QDII
1998 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
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post #10 of 15 Old 04-12-2020, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
SteveROntario
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That's a great idea. I seem to remember somebody saying that you need to bleed the back brakes after a brake job to make them operate properly too. I'll try both options...just need to find some jack stands.

2013 Civic, 2009 Suzuki DRZ-400SM, 2008.5 Grand Cherokee CRD, 1991 Dodge B250, 1934 Hupmobile 417W
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post #11 of 15 Old 04-12-2020, 06:19 PM
azzkicker
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Nice work, but am I the only person who was expecting videos of people slamming on the brakes in front of tailgaters?


I don't do it myself, after seeing dangerous inattention in others, but it makes for good dash cam footage.



Nice project. Hope it works well.



FWIW, my buddy uses a garden sprayer with brake fluid, makes a cork that fits the top of his master cylinder, then pressurizes fluid through the system and bleeds it that way. I haven't tried it, but he's a retired technician and seems to be exceptional at that type of thing.

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post #12 of 15 Old 04-12-2020, 10:40 PM
LouC
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OK watched the rear brake vid, I can say that compared to doing the ZJ rear parking brakes this is a bit more difficult because it appears that the hub diameter is larger and more in the way. Suggestion and I did this when I did the ZJ....one problem is the parking brake shoes keep moving around. What I did was get one of the those rubber cushioned clamps you use for wood working projects and gently clamped it on the shoes, to keep them retracted so to speak on the backing plate. This makes it easier to get those tricky retainer clips in and also makes it easier to get the springs on. In addition, the brake spring tool that looks like a
T with a small hook on the end, works great to try to get the brake spring in the hole in the shoe.
I have drum brakes on my boat trailer and have just about every drum brake tool that you can imagine.
Other tips..I take the adjuster and coat the threads with syn brake grease or marine grease to allow them to move easily, helps the next time you need to take it apart.
I also grease the actuator piece, so it moves smoothly
Grease the ledges where the shoes slide
before removing the disc, loosen the star wheel all the way, it will come off easier that way and if the parking brake shoes are in good shape, this keeps them from getting damaged and you might not even have to replace them next time.
anti seize on the hub and the part of the rotor that contacts the drum

Years ago I had a Toyota Corolla with 4 wheel disc brakes, instead of this pain in the butt drum brake in the rotor, they used a jack screw arrangement that extended the disc brake caliper piston to apply the brake. Worked well and NO separate parking brake. Not sure why this is not more widely used...
Lastly I did the parking brake shoes on my wife's old '98 Subaru and it was even more difficult, because the damn things were so small the normal drum brake tools didn't really fit.

2017 JK Unlimited Sport 6 spd
2007 WK Limited Hemi QDII
1998 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
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post #13 of 15 Old 06-02-2020, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveROntario View Post
I got the brake job done on the rear of the Jeep yesterday. The brake tool worked fine, you just need to go slow and hold the pressure on the rotors while tapping them.
I need to circle back and work on the parking brake adjustment. I feel that I have some drag but need two jack-stands to adjust things properly. I have to say that it takes some patience and strength to get those parking shoes back on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZY3gC-QLY7w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fd5t0atvTzs
Thanks for the vids!
Honestly I didn't see yours when I searched youtube directly. I'll be sure to like/upvote or whatever they do for ya!
My 3.7 has developed an inconsistant click that sounds like coming from the rear driver side brake. Any ideas? Since I have to take it all apart to check I'll probably order all the parts for a full rear brake job, e brake included.

2007 Grand Cherokee Limited CRD.
2006 Grand Cherokee Larado 3.7 V6.
Denver,CO
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post #14 of 15 Old 06-03-2020, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
SteveROntario
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The parking brake may be grabbing. You can take the wheel off and release the caliper a bit to make it easier to feel if the parking brake is dragging. When we got the Jeep the parking brake warning light was not working and I drove it for a few minutes on the highway before realizing the brake was on. The brake started grabbing and letting go. I had to stop and release the parking brake to fix that...it would not fully release while driving.

Youtube can be a bit of a waiting game for me. I have put out some videos that I felt were unique or informative and they sat for months before anybody watched them but then there were others that took off right away. One of my videos I filmed about 3 months ago just took off but some get totally ignored. Thank you for your support.

2013 Civic, 2009 Suzuki DRZ-400SM, 2008.5 Grand Cherokee CRD, 1991 Dodge B250, 1934 Hupmobile 417W
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post #15 of 15 Old 06-04-2020, 10:01 AM
Jambalam
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I found a kit on amazon, should be here in a week. Also got brake spring pliers and the spring pin release tool on the way.
About $20 for the two tools and $123 for rear rotors, pads, shoes and springs.

Not bad, eh? I figure a shop could charge $1000+ for this job.




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