Air in cooling system? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 06-27-2021, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
Brill
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Air in cooling system?

About a month ago I had my timing cover replaced at a shop because it was leaking. They drained and refilled the cooling system as part of the repair and since then it seems like my Jeep is running a bit warmer than normal. The temp gauge used to always sit about one notch before dead center but lately it's been running up to center or even a notch after.

Could this just be some air still in the system if they didn't bleed it properly or should it have worked its way out by now? The coolant level has been stable since it left the shop.

What would be the proper way at this point to bleed any leftover air out if it is that?


It's a 2006 WK with the 5.7L

Thanks for any advice.

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post #2 of 7 Old 06-27-2021, 08:54 PM
Vertisce21
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Nevermind, you are talking about the engine coolant and not the AC coolant. I assumed the latter because it's the only system you have to "bleed". The radiator and overflow system will purge any excess air from the system on it's own but there is a plug near the water pump that you should take the plug off of when filling the radiator to allow it to fill properly.

Last edited by Vertisce21; 06-27-2021 at 09:23 PM.
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post #3 of 7 Old 06-27-2021, 08:55 PM
yzjwk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brill View Post
About a month ago I had my timing cover replaced at a shop because it was leaking. They drained and refilled the cooling system as part of the repair and since then it seems like my Jeep is running a bit warmer than normal. The temp gauge used to always sit about one notch before dead center but lately it's been running up to center or even a notch after.

Could this just be some air still in the system if they didn't bleed it properly or should it have worked its way out by now? The coolant level has been stable since it left the shop.

What would be the proper way at this point to bleed any leftover air out if it is that?


It's a 2006 WK with the 5.7L

Thanks for any advice.
If it was a good shop , they should have changed the thermostat at the same time and if the existing one was old, it was probably opening a bit early. Normal levels are 1-2 needles below or above 1/2 way depending on ambient temps, as long as the running temp is stable. Air in the system will usually make the temp rise and fall dramatically as it burps and you will see a change in fluid levels.
If you still think thereís some air I would run it up to full temp with the interior heat on high and completely cool down a couple times. You might consider replacing the rad cap too if thatís old or original.

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post #4 of 7 Old 06-27-2021, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
Brill
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They did replace the thermostat as well and I actually already have a new rad cap on order just in case. It'll currently run between one notch below center to one notch above whereas before it never really got higher than that one notch below.

I'm just a little uncertain about how to burp the system. I've searched the forums and found a few posts about using the bleed screw on the water pump and/or running the engine with the rad cap off but I'm not sure what the best procedure is.
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post #5 of 7 Old 06-27-2021, 09:11 PM
yzjwk
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Originally Posted by Brill View Post
They did replace the thermostat as well and I actually already have a new rad cap on order just in case.

I'm just a little uncertain about how to burp the system. I've searched the forums and found a few posts about using the bleed screw on the water pump and/or running the engine with the rad cap off but I'm not sure what the best procedure is.
If youíre temps are stable at full operating temp and the fluid level isnít changing after driving a few times, I would say the shop did a decent job and thereís no or not much air left. The system should purge itself over a week or so of drive cycles. If anything there might be some in the heater core which is why I suggested driving with the heat on.

5 and counting :05 WK 5.7 HEMI
90 YJ Islander 4.2L
94 ZJ Ltd 5.2 ,00 WJ 4.0
2010 MK Patriot
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post #6 of 7 Old 06-27-2021, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
Brill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yzjwk View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brill View Post
They did replace the thermostat as well and I actually already have a new rad cap on order just in case.

I'm just a little uncertain about how to burp the system. I've searched the forums and found a few posts about using the bleed screw on the water pump and/or running the engine with the rad cap off but I'm not sure what the best procedure is.
If you’re temps are stable at full operating temp and the fluid level isn’t changing after driving a few times, I would say the shop did a decent job and there’s no or not much air left. The system should purge itself over a week or so of drive cycles. If anything there might be some in the heater core which is why I suggested driving with the heat on.
Yeah the temperature is fairly stable. I was just worried the new "normal" temperature was higher than it should be. I'll try what you're suggesting. Thanks.
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post #7 of 7 Old 06-28-2021, 12:16 PM
gspfunk
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I canít speak for all models, but bleeding ALL the air from the system on the SRTís is ridiculous. Iíd imagine they are about the same, or at least the 5.7. In the past, Iíve done mine in my driveway, which is slanted, and park it nose up. Run it for 30 minutes filling as needed.

As mentioned, it should purge some air over time, but a lot of people leave enough air in it that it spikes, which can lead to overheating issues. If yours isnít spiking, just keep an eye on it, but it will likely be ok.

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