3 link rear on WK - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-24-2021, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
HBP40
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3 link rear on WK

Anyone run a 3 link rear on a WK yet?

Given the tank location it makes sense in theory, I have seen an aftermarket kit on the market, but I have not seen anyone running it.


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post #2 of 9 Old 05-25-2021, 11:28 AM
2005JGC
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I have seen some with it. I think most of the guys doing that stuff spend less time on the interwebz with the little people. I've seen home made long arm setups for the front (insane, amazing work btw). I've seen 4 link rear with a heavily modified superlift front end (running the add-on Australian fuel tank in the rear as the only tank). I've seen people mention having the cp engineering 3 link in the rear. But it is incredible how uncommon it is to be seen/talked about or even pictures to get posted.

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post #3 of 9 Old 05-27-2021, 09:19 AM
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So one problem we are running into is there aren't many options for longer springs about 2.5 inches other than the SL springs. JBA stopped making their 4 inch springs. So now the set up has to be full custom down to the springs. Now yes you can just use springs for a different vehicle but you probably try 2 or 3 different sets that may or may not have the same coil mount depending on the springs you buy. This isn't a big deal really but it is not for the low budget simple trail driver or mall crawler. Not to mention there is some difficulty in putting a roll cage in one of these and maintaining to luxurious look and feel inside. Which in my opinion if your going for that much flex you will end up in hairy situations and a cage is not a bad idea. Jeeperf makes a nice looking set of sort arms for the back that have a bend in one for extra clearance of the gas tank skid. To drop further. Longer brake lines are needed at that point and your elsd harness will need to be lengthened along with possibly lengthening your wheel speed sensor wires depending on how much down travel you will have. Not many talk about the complications of going big with these. Most people don't have the know how or if lacking the know how they lack the money to pay someone that does. So only us smart peoples do these things and when we talk about them in forums we don't get much support because most people aren't doing these things and those that do respond either have no idea what they are talking about and just say "nice job" "looks good bro" or they say things like "why do that, that's dumb" that being said I am preparing for a 3 link rear and and 4 link long arm front with coil springs. There was a guy in Argentina I believe that did his front like this.
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-27-2021, 08:55 PM
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Ive Never seen it done but I would think you could take a WJ rear axe setup and fit it to a WK. Thereís lots of long arm 3 link setups for that. That would give you better articulating 3 link and (marginally stronger?) D44a with a varilock.

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post #5 of 9 Old 05-29-2021, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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I was able to pick up the superlift 4Ē coils by themselves. But yeah thatís about the only game in town for springs.


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post #6 of 9 Old 07-12-2021, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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MA_Racing Iíd be interested in hearing more about the build youíre prepping for. I canít message directly without posting more Iím guessing, been awhile since Iíve been active here.

And funny enough, just when I think Iíve exhausted searching for aftermarket possibilities, 2005jgc mentions those aux tanks Iíve never heard of so thanks for that, an expensive option, but an option I hadnít considered


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post #7 of 9 Old 07-13-2021, 02:49 PM
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Always happy to help spend other peoples money!

I also have an SAS swap on the horizon. I have the axles, just need everything else haha (almost there lol). I intend to do what I can to go triangulated 4 link front and rear with complete removal of the front IFS subframe. I want the fuel tank out of the way and plan on finding something close enough in size/design or building my own to the exact specifications I want in the rear. Likely cutting out the floor between the unibody frame rails in the rear and sticking the fuel tank up into the cabin 4-5 inches then weld in a new floor over it for some fire protection for occupants in the cabin. I should be able to get away with most of the original interior space considering the removal of the big plastic floor spacer/storage tray back there. By doing this, the with my calculations, I should be able to build a larger tank than factory, which would be nice to carry even a few more gallons.

I want mine to be streetable, something I can drive to explore. I may end up trailering it to OHV areas to play for the day, but I want to be able to load the family up and drive it to the beach for the day. I don't want it to be scary to drive, wondering all over the road while you are driving, let alone accelerating and braking. My jeep is currently my daily, and I have no intent to burn up 37's driving to work or wear out expensive suspension links commuting. I have about $7-10k more to go to have this built how I want on top of the axles I already own, so this wont be happening overnight. The project picked up after discussion with my wife about getting a DD truck (not right now YIKES) that can more comfortably tow the camper with the family and I realized when that happens, I can go a bit more wild with the WK.

Ultimately, I am sick of breaking stuff. Yes, a cv axle can be swapped out in 30 minutes with hand tools and yes, the way my rig is set up, I can drive myself home with a broken axle (and have done it 2 times now)... but I am tired of them being the deciding factor if I can take that line or not. I am tired of no ground clearance and only room for 33's. I LOVE playing in snow and really want a 37x13.5 to float this pig in deep snow. I want an axle ratio that can better help spin those big tires, and 4.10's ain't it. I want more breakover angle so I am not dragging over obstacles.

An IFS build would be (assuming you can find one) a superlift, $2500 + any lift stacked on it $500+/-. RCV's $1600(because you still have crappy CV axles). Plus 35" tires $1500, because 4.10s are not going to spin 37's well and even with a stacked superlift, your tires are still too close to firewall for too big of a tire (there have been a few that did it and posted pictures, won the internet, but I have never seen 37's actually stay on an IFS WK). Adjustable rear control arms to push the axle back some $5-600. 4.10 gearing 2k+/- installed... $8k for this setup, you STILL have IFS and I just broke my intermediate shaft last time I was out, RCV's wont solve that. STILL have 4.10s and a loss of available torque from the bigger tires. STILL have minivanesq breakover angle. I LOVE this jeep, I LOVE this platform, as my WK sits I was hitting lines wranglers were driving around last time I was out (and I broke... minor details). I want to make it that much more capable to where I am doing all the lines the built wrangler guys are doing with none of the payment.

So Straight axles its getting!

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post #8 of 9 Old 07-13-2021, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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I think you and I have a lot in common. Iím right there with you on sort of where do I go with this rig. I have the same issues with the limitations and the few solutions out there.

Shoot me a message or post, Iíd be curious to your axle choice, tcase, etcÖ I have a few ideas Iíve been mulling over taking on once this season wraps up.


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post #9 of 9 Old 07-14-2021, 12:30 AM
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I picked up some Dodge Ram Powerwagon axles. They come stock 4.56's and Elockers. Front is an AAM 9.25 and rear is AAM 10.5. Front has some other gearing options for the future, rear would need to be swapped to something else like an AAM 11.5 to get a shorter gear ratio options because 4.56 is the shortest option for the 10.5. I purchased these because they are set up, as is, and ready to cut factory brackets and weld on what I need. I don't need to buy new gears and bearings, I don't need to buy lockers. The 4.56 isn't ideal. I would love a bit of extra advantage like 5.13's or 5.38's to cover the absorption of power spinning the heavier weight, not just a bigger diameter tire. But building an axle is going to be 5k, and I paid 1100 each for these (2200 total). This is what ford f350 SD axles are going for around me. with 3.73's and open differentials, so I couldn't justify the D60 and Sterling 10.5 that everyone wants right now that would need to be built. Given the cost of the build, I am going to roll with what I have and consider upgrading the rear axle in the future.

For the transfer case, I am planning on doing a np242 out of a wj, durango, or I believe ram had one too behind the 545/45rfe. This will give 2wd, 4hi, n, 4lo.
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