3.0L CRD Limp Mode and ETC Light - JeepForum.com
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  • 1 Post By buschy2586
  • 1 Post By rokrau
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-12-2019, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
Blackwater81
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2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 4
3.0L CRD Limp Mode and ETC Light

I am hoping that at least one other person on here has experienced the same issue. I have a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with a 3.0L diesel. About a month ago the ETC light (lightening bolt with reverse brackets) came on one morning. it then went out later that day, but came back on the next day and stayed on for about 3 days. This on/off cycle has been going on ever since. No real pattern as to when it will happen it just happens. Everytime the light comes on the jeep goes into limp mode (except once and I can't begin to fathom why). It is literally a crap shoot everytime I turn on the ignition to see if it going to happen or not. It is only the ETC light that flashes on, it has not thrown the CEL nor has it thrown ANY codes. I have scanned it with both my GDE tuner and my OBD2 and there are no DTC's anywhere. I have even driven around with my OBD2 plugged in with the light flashing and it does not trip a code. I have so far redone my swirl motor resistor mod, replaced the throttle body, done a visual inspection of the turbo and a general inspection of the turbo actuator and all seems to be working properly. I am replacing my fuel filter and fuel/water sensor today to see if that is the problem, but without any codes coming up I'm pretty much grasping at thin air at the moment. The jeep does have a GDE hot tune with DPF delete and returning to stock, checking diagnostics and returning back to tune does nothing either. I'm going slightly crazy trying to figure out what to do with it. Really hoping someone else on here has had similar issues.

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post #2 of 10 Old 06-12-2019, 08:31 AM
buschy2586
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I had been dealing with a very similar problem the last year or two. Intermittent ETC light coming on, going into limp. BUT my CRD would throw codes for boost under or over preassure. It seemed to only happen when it was warm and had been running for a bit (summer) or random times in the winter.
What fixed mine was replacing the turbo actuator. I think mine was basically stuck in the up position and would only work spuratically. I have heard recommendations on making sure those two preassure lines that would connect to the dpf were connected to eachother so they read the same preassure. I left mine dangling after the dpf delete and have been meaning to remove them completely and getting a small piece of hose to connect them in the engine bay, but the turbo actuator replacement has fixed my problem (crossing my fingers still! only did this a few weeks ago).
I did find a cheap turbo actuator on amazon, so it made it worth a shot for me.
Hope this helps!
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-12-2019, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
Blackwater81
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I had just cut and crimped the pressure lines when I deleted the dpf. Now that I'm thinking back on it the problem started the day after I did the dpf delete. I'm going to connect them together in the engine compartment and see what happens. I had talked to a guy last night who refurbishes turbo actuators and he seemed to think it was fuel related as I've already taken care if most of the air side of things. I will keep posted on here what happens. Thanks buschy
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-13-2019, 01:31 AM
rokrau
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2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: San Jose
Posts: 90
Another thing to check is whether the connector from the main wiring harness to your ECU is loose. The thing is under the battery.

I’d also check that the electrical wire that goes right by the air condition line on the driver side of the engine has not shorted out due to the isolation melting.

Finally you could check if the connector to the Flow Control Valve contact is loose or damaged. https://oregonfuelinjection.com/shop...08-sprintjeep/

Most of this will throw codes though. Are you sure your code reader works properly?

Good luck!
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--Roland, 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland, 3.0 CRD, EHM and TRD
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-13-2019, 05:19 AM Thread Starter
Blackwater81
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Thanks for the ideas to check rokrau. Yes I'm quite positive that my scanner is working properly as it has shown me other codes in the last month that I have also fixed (glow plugs being one), also I have had it to my mechanic as well to try and solve the issue and even their diagnostic scanner picks up no codes. The light hasn't come on in 24 hours, I'm hoping that it stays that way now. If it makes it beyond 5 days without the light coming on and going into limp mode than I will assume it was the fuel filter and it is fixed as the longest it has gone since the problem has started was 4 days. Fingers crossed.
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-13-2019, 10:34 AM
Grinmaul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackwater81 View Post
I had just cut and crimped the pressure lines when I deleted the dpf. Now that I'm thinking back on it the problem started the day after I did the dpf delete. I'm going to connect them together in the engine compartment and see what happens. I had talked to a guy last night who refurbishes turbo actuators and he seemed to think it was fuel related as I've already taken care if most of the air side of things. I will keep posted on here what happens. Thanks buschy
Ask GDE to double check your tune that the DPF is indeed removed from it. and if your like me you did the DPF delete long after your first eco/hot tune so i now have 4 tunes on the programmer, double check you installed the right one.

2008.5 WK CRD, 2005 WK Limited 5.7
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-13-2019, 02:41 PM
GreenWK
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2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 97
I had been dealing with this exact issue and it was the turbo actuator. Replaced it and I have a brand new car. Boost is back and fuel economy too.
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2008 CRD Overland, GDE Eco
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-14-2019, 05:13 AM Thread Starter
Blackwater81
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Posts: 4
I did the DPF delete when I bought the GDE tune. I have used the GDE tuner to return to stock and then back to tuned with DPF delete and still no change. I have taken a video of what happens when the light is on and what the scanner says. I will try to upload it soon so others can see what has been happening.
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post #9 of 10 Old Yesterday, 04:52 AM
sampuppy1
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1936 CJ2A 
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Wayland
Posts: 102
Had same issue. After awhile the CEL would show up throwing an over/underboost code. Usually would start fine after sitting awhile (usually overnight) very random for awhile as to when it would act out. Eventually it would limp any time WOT called for full boost. Either the actuator wouldn't move and cause underboost, or it would hang up after WOT was ceased and cause overboost. CEL never showed up until this point.

Based off the codes, I bought an actuator. 15 minutes to swap it and not a single problem since.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
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post #10 of 10 Old Yesterday, 07:52 AM
Gray203m
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2008 WK 
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: RM Pense
Posts: 176
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I had the exact same thing happen last summer. No codes but limp mode with etc light. Ended up being the alternator dying. I ended up running torque watching sensors as I drove, and the voltage was fluctuating wildly. If the voltage stayed low for too long, it would trigger limp mode, but still no code until the alternator outright died

2008 WK CRD North
GDE Eco Tune, DPF Delete
2" RC lift, 265/65R18 Duratracs
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