2008 WK CRD 6in lift horrible camber. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 12-23-2019, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
2008WKCRDboii
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2008 WK CRD 6in lift horrible camber.

Hello gents,

Long-time post cruiser, first time posting. I have a 2008 WK grand Cherokee limited, quadra drive CRD diesel that I accidentally lifted too high. ( said no one ever) Seriously though, I did not mean to have such a big lift. I skimmed the sparse databases I could find on affordable lifts and ended up just "making something up" I have the adjust a perch Bilstein 5100's upfront on OME HD springs. and The 5100's in the rear with the OME HD coils as well. In preparation for a modest lift, I opted for the JBA UCA's meant for a lifted Wk, and low and behold I received almost 5.5 inches of lift in the front. and roughly 3 in the rear. After 500 miles hasn't gotten any lower. This brings me to my problem. My camber is bad. I had firestone "fix" it, which helped significantly, but my front wheels still have a significant amount of positive camber and I'm not trying to ruin my new BFG's.

The shop told me they maxed out my LCA's. I have JBA UCA's and therefore can't run moog adjustable ball joints. Is there another way to get my camber in check if the lowers are "maxed out"?? any info or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks,
-Wes

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post #2 of 13 Old 12-23-2019, 03:25 PM
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A superlift.

If there was an easy solution there would be answers all over the forums. There is a lot of moving parts in independent front suspension. Your tie rods are going to be almost pointing straight down which is going to put major stress on the steering rack and tie rod ends. Because your steering is at such a steep angle, any time the wheel travels up you are going from a little bit of toe in to WAY toe'd out when the suspension is compressed making weird driving characteristics and tire wear. Toes is the very obvious change, the further you deviate from level on the tie rods the more change is going to happen with the position of the knuckle with less travel. The same changes take place for all of the suspension geometry, thus the reason superlift pushes the lower control arm down and extends the knuckle to keep the upper arm more level. You retain better driving characteristics and longer tire life

I haven't had one in my hand but I believe the superlift handles these concerns a couple ways. The knuckle is longer (probably by about 4"), so that the upper control arm maintains its factory position and travel despite lowering the lower control arm 4". I believe the position of the tie rod end mount on the knuckle is also higher to keep the tie rods flatter.

Personally, before you go spend a bunch of money aligning your rig and trying to make it work, I would suggest lowering your front to the lowest setting on the 5100's. Having them set to the 2" lift AND having OME springs, you gotta be sitting just about at the very top of the travel which is going to make every single bump in the road slam the strut to full extension.

A lift like this works if its what your looking for, look at all the guys fitting 30's on their donk 72 malibu. Function is very different from form and I believe 4" is about the number that people have accepted as a functional height that isn't going to cause the suspension to self destruct in a short amount of time.
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post #3 of 13 Old 12-23-2019, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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As soon as I finished installing the lift I saw the writing on the wall. The initial camber was insane. I am slightly embarrassed right now, and just realized I may have accidentally set my bilsteins at the highest setting.. which was not my intention. Fighting two sets of spring compressors to get the HD coils compressed was not something I was looking forward to doing again.

Looking at the strut in it's installed position, I set the snap ring at the lowest grove available. I was under the impression this would be the least amount of lift. Is that wrong?
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post #4 of 13 Old 12-23-2019, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Upon a quick youtube tutorial... it appears I do have the spring seats set to their lowest setting.. which begs the question... what the heck?? I am lost on how these struts and the 2991 HD springs yielded almost 6in of lift.
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post #5 of 13 Old 12-23-2019, 11:49 PM
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Yeah, not sure!

I have the same setup, probably have a little more weight up front with a winch but not a whole lot. I think I was at 3-4 inches. I feel like the OME springs had me riding really tall for a month or 2.
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post #6 of 13 Old 12-24-2019, 06:45 AM
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Doing a little computer screen math here, so forgive me if I'm way out of line here but I don't see anywhere near 6" lift. maybe your original equipment was sagged out badly?

My factory jeep wheel well sits 4.5" above the tire and by my calculations, you are at about 7.5" which seems to indicate about 3" of net lift maybe 3.5 if your running 32" tires .

What is your center of hub to fender lip measurement ?

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post #7 of 13 Old 12-24-2019, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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That's a good possibility. It is very likely my original struts were blown. I ran outside and as of now my center hub to fender lip measurement in the front is 23.5 inches... so 4ish inches of actual suspension lift it seems like? which if that's the case I'm still confused why the alignment is so far off. I will be taking my rig to a different firestone come the new year. (lifetime alignment FTW)

I would like to believe that 4 ish inches of lift would not be detrimental to my IFS, but I am new to this platform.
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-24-2019, 12:55 PM
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Stock is supposed to be 19" so you're up 4.5". If your LCAs are maxed out the only way you're going to fix the camber is swapping out some parts. Did you get a printout with the alignment? Just how far out of whack is it? You might be able to get away with going back to the stock UCAs with Moog balljoints or just swapping the front springs for MD ones (or stock springs with the 5100s at the top setting).
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post #9 of 13 Old 12-24-2019, 02:50 PM
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I agree with underscore, but Without un-doing anything , you could just add a a few pounds (steel bumper and / or winch??) to the front of that diesel and that would probably sort all your problems out.

Technically, thats what the OME HD was designed for. If you were never planning on adding weight to the front end, the MD series would have been what youre looking for. You got a double whammy when you added the ome HD to the adjustable bilsteins which on their own add ..5- .75 on the lowest setting already.

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post #10 of 13 Old 12-24-2019, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Fare point, I've been cruising the web all day looking at options. I would like to think some weight up front would be enough to bring things back in line. Not super thrilled with the options for bumpers that I'm seeing. It might be time to invest in some more fab tools.

I opted for the HD springs on the off chance I would have some more weight up front someday, but I did not plan on that day being this soon. Oh well. A wise man once said.."You gotta pay to play"
Thanks for the input ya'll. If anyone has some leads on bumpers let me know! In the mean time...I'll bang my head against the wall with the idea of making my own.
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post #11 of 13 Old 12-25-2019, 11:39 PM
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Before doing anything to add weight, get whatever you can get your hands on that weighs roughly the same and carefully hang it off the front end, then give it a few bounces and see where it sits. Even if you add a bumper and winch like the HD are meant for you've still got 0.75" from the Bilsteins that isn't intended to be there to account for with the alignment.
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post #12 of 13 Old 12-27-2019, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quick update. Took the ole wk to firestone on base today and they dialed the camber in to within .2 degrees of zero camber on the driver's side, and perfect on the passenger side. I thought I grabbed the print out so I would be able to share it on here but I only grabbed the receipt, sorry. In addition to getting the camber dialed, they fixed the toe and caster that was slightly off from the other shop's untrained technician. It is driveable now, which gives me some more time to figure out the bumper situation. Thanks for the input gents.
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post #13 of 13 Old 12-27-2019, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Driveable

Driveable
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