2008 4.7 engine vibration - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 22 Old 09-09-2019, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
Rtbrjason
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2008 4.7 with 190k miles. There is a considerable amount of engine vibration at idle and I’m not sure what else to look into.

It doesn’t appear to be motor mounts. Reving the engine while idling shows almost no movement at all. Differential bushings and mount as well as transmission mount are new.

All 16 plugs are new (oem) along with 8 new coils and new wires. Fuel pump is new. All 8 injectors were sent for cleaning and show near perfect balance. Crank, cam and coolant sensors are new. All 4 o2 sensors are new. EGR was removed and cleaned while doing new intake manifold gaskets. Throttle body is new. Idler/tensioner/water pump/thermostat and belt are new. PCV valve is new. I’ve run some water and seafoam through vacuum lines to clean internals. All fluids are new.

I’m seeing -8 to -10 fuel trims on both sides running ethanol free fuel. I’m not sure what else to do. I’m thinking possible harmonic balancer, though there doesn’t appear to be any wobble. Possible timing chain/tensioner issue, possible egr valve issue or possible partial plugged cats. I’m not getting a check engine light but occasionally there is a p0420 code pending. So far it’s always gone away before setting the check engine light. No other codes are present. Any ideas?

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post #2 of 22 Old 09-09-2019, 11:45 AM
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Check compression on each cylinder.
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post #3 of 22 Old 09-09-2019, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Forgot to add that the Jeep runs well with no drivability issues at all. Very smooth.

I’ll look into checking compression. For this engine is it just a matter of removing the main spark plug and screwing in the compression tester once the fuel pump is disabled? This is my first dual spark plug vehicle.
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post #4 of 22 Old 09-09-2019, 12:57 PM
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yes, one spark plug in each cylinder comes out. Disable the fuel pump and ASD(Automatic Shut Down) in the fuse box. Hold accelerator pedal down while you crank 3-4 times each cylinder.

At over 190,000 miles you want to make sure the rings and valves are mechanically okay.

Edit add: are all your new sensors Mopar OEM? Jeeps PCM's do not like third party sensors especially the cam, crank, and O2 sensors.
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post #5 of 22 Old 09-09-2019, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. All sensors are NTK. I’m watching all 4 o2 sensors while driving. They seem okay. Fronts oscillate from .2 to .8 or so and rears are mostly steady at .7 volts while cruising. No issues starting or driving. Just seems to vibrate a lot more than expected. Hoping I’m not looking at an engine rebuild. I’m hopelessly up side down on restoring this jeep. I think it’s been the single greatest financial mistake of my life actually.


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yes, one spark plug in each cylinder comes out. Disable the fuel pump and ASD(Automatic Shut Down) in the fuse box. Hold accelerator pedal down while you crank 3-4 times each cylinder.

At over 190,000 miles you want to make sure the rings and valves are mechanically okay.

Edit add: are all your new sensors Mopar OEM? Jeeps PCM's do not like third party sensors especially the cam, crank, and O2 sensors.
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post #6 of 22 Old 09-09-2019, 02:14 PM
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Thanks. All sensors are NTK.
That may be your problem. Did you keep the old Mopar Crank and cam sensors? If so, swap them both (return OEM sensors to cam and crank positions) and see if the problem goes away.

I am upside down on my Jeep also. Meaning that I have spent more in maintenance and preventative repairs in the last five years than the vehicle is worth in a sale. I am the original owner. Would do it again in a heart beat as a new similar Jeep cost $45,000. I hope no one hits my vehicle because insurance will total it out and I will be out $$$ if that happens.
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post #7 of 22 Old 09-09-2019, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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I have the cam sensor but the crank sensor came out in pieces. It was a battle over several days to get it out.

I got this in December for $2500. Since then I’ve spent another $16k fixing it up. That included a few big ticket items like wheels/tires (k02 and winterforce), transmission rebuild, and some upgrades like exhaust, k&n intake, both driveshafts, and suspension.

At this point I’ve taken everything off the underside (cross member, rear subframe, gas tank skid and all brackets), had everything sandblasted and painted, sanded and painted all the underbody rust with por-15 before undercoating. Replaced the full suspension front and rear, inner/ outer tie rods, brakes, axles, New cooling system with electrical fan, spark and fuel, and did new gaskets from the intake up. Bunch of other misc parts in there. Too much to remember. I have the same concern about insurance.



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Quote:
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Thanks. All sensors are NTK.
That may be your problem. Did you keep the old Mopar Crank and cam sensors? If so, swap them both (return OEM sensors to cam and crank positions) and see if the problem goes away.

I am upside down on my Jeep also. Meaning that I have spent more in maintenance and preventative repairs in the last five years than the vehicle is worth in a sale. I am the original owner. Would do it again in a heart beat as a new similar Jeep cost $45,000. I hope no one hits my vehicle because insurance will total it out and I will be out $$$ if that happens.
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post #8 of 22 Old 09-09-2019, 02:53 PM
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I have the cam sensor but the crank sensor came out in pieces. It was a battle over several days to get it out.
If it were my vehicle, I would put in Mopar OEM cam and crank sensors (and O2 sensors, but start with cam and crank first). A tip on removing the crank sensor. Wiggle it out a little and then put a thin wrench between the engine and the sensor. Wiggle it out a little more and then put a thicker or an additional wrench in the open space. This way you can push and pull the wrench(s) to aid in the wiggling of the crank sensor. Took me about 20 minutes to get mine out in one piece. The new one should come out quicker though.

The Catalytic converter issue is something I would start saving $$ to address in the future, especially with the mileage and the potential 420 code. And, 190,000 miles on the engine if the oil was not changed regularly makes the crank bearings a question mark. Maybe perform an oil pressure test too just to check them out. You should be able to put a pressure gauge in the oil pressure sensor receptacle.

I would also perform the compression test just to make sure everything mechanical in the engine is working okay.

Nice reconditioning. Maybe talk to your insurance agent and see if you can have the vehicle revalued. The downside is if it is revalued your insurance premiums will go way up. The insurance agent may simply say you replaced existing parts with new parts so there is no added value besides condition.

You probably knew that purchasing a 2008 for $2,500 meant that you would need to invest at least $6,000 in parts to bring it to working condition.
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post #9 of 22 Old 09-12-2019, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Well it’s running really well under normal driving, but feels awful and throws a p0300 if you go WOT. That combined with the occasional pending p0420 and high cat temps, had me fairly certain I had a partially plugged cat. I cut the cats off for now and it’s still behaving the same way.

I ordered Mopar cam/crank sensors to replace the NTKs I just installed. I was under the impression NTK made the Mopar sensors but maybe not. I’m also hoping to do a compression test this weekend. I’m hoping the engine is okay. If not, I’m really in way to deep to not do an engine rebuild/replace.
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post #10 of 22 Old 09-13-2019, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCS1300 View Post
.... I would put in Mopar OEM cam and crank sensors (and O2 sensors, but start with cam and crank first).....
Oxygen sensors were made by NTK. Don't know about cam, crank, or MAP sensors.

MOPAR parts generally carry a 1-yr warranty. Recommend you ask about other brands. If MOPAR is willing to warrant it, I have higher confidence that it will not fail quickly.
Had only 1 failure on a MOPAR part: the original shock absorbers failed in 45K miles. All were replaced under warranty. A warranty replacement front shock absorber failed in 5K miles and another MOPAR shock absorber was installed under the terms of the warranty. [We all know the factory twin tube shocks were not very good.] However, they did last another 60K miles.

Just my opinion.......

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post #11 of 22 Old 09-13-2019, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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I reset the codes and drove normally until all the monitors set. It continues to run well as long as you don’t go WOT, but I’m also getting a p3330 code now. Can’t find much on this code as it relates to jeep. Possibly due to an exhaust leak? Another site says it’s ignition related.
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post #12 of 22 Old 09-13-2019, 05:48 PM
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The moparpartsdiscounted parts I purchased where all two year warranties. That may have changed recently.
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post #13 of 22 Old 09-14-2019, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Compression numbers averaged around 145 per cylinder. Lowest around 142, highest about 148.

One of the spark plugs didn’t look great. They have about 1000 miles on them. Not sure if it wasn’t tight enough or what. I moved that plug from cylinder 7 to 1 for now and I’ll replace it as soon as I get one.
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post #14 of 22 Old 09-18-2019, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Can’t f’ing believe it happened again! The new NTK Cam sensor out and new Mopar sensor in in under 5 minutes.

The new NTK crank sensor bolt came right out and the sensor had some movement and seemed to be wiggling right out. Turns out it broke also. The sensor body, small circuit board and magnet came out but the metal end cap, plastic and o-ring are completely stuck in the block.

This might be worse than when I originally swapped it a few months ago. At least then the whole thing was rotating in there. This time it’s not moving at all, and there is nothing to grab onto.
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post #15 of 22 Old 09-18-2019, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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I managed to get the rest of the sensor out similar to last time. Drilled a screw in, grabbed with vice grips from underneath and hammered it out. Unfortunately the new Mopar sensor doesn’t seem to fit.

Can anyone confirm the correct Mopar part number for a 2008 GC 4.7? The part I ordered was “56028666AB”.
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