2007 Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD Wiring Diagram. - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 11-27-2020, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
jp425
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2007 Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD Wiring Diagram.

I'm new to the forum world not sure what a thread or a sticky is. For me this is kind of a last resort on repairing my 07 GC CRD. For the last year and a half it has been sitting in my driveway not running. To start with in July of 2019 it quit charging. With a lot of diagnostics it turned out to be the PCM because of the on board voltage regulator. PCM was on back order for 6 months. It was installed by the dealer but then would not communicate with the WIN module. That was in January 2020. They gave me a tentative arrival date for the new WIN module of July 2020. It was on back order also. That date came and went with a new date of January 2021. I have invested thousands of dollars in this vehicle for this repair. Mind you this was a running vehicle before it went into the shop it just had a charging issue. Now it will not run at all. Reading that Jeep WIN modules are problematic I paid to order a new one. I am now trying to find the electrical diagram for this 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD Diesel. Before I take this vehicle back to the dealer if they ever get the WIN module in. I want to be able to go through all the ignition wiring checking my grounds and voltages. My faith in the dealership has faded. Gas Jeeps diagrams are quite different than diesels wire colors and locations of and component. I can't find diesel diagrams on the net. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks Jim

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post #2 of 13 Old 11-28-2020, 01:54 PM
90grandoneer
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Welcome to the forum. There are plenty of knowledgeable CRD folks on this forum and I am sure they'll chime in and help you out. Good luck and have fun.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, AFE Air Filter, 6spd 545RFE, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS and HP tuners, Transgo Shift Kit, ARH Long Tube Hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads w/new valve seats, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's. Also 05 Hemi LX modded exactly like WK and, SOLD Comp Cammed 06 300CSRT8 just replaced with 2021 Tesla Model S Plaid with 1020 hp and 1050 lb. ft. of torque.
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post #3 of 13 Old 11-29-2020, 12:34 AM
rokrau
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Have your experts tested the alternator?
If you have lost trust in your dealer maybe look for a “Sprinter” shop. The Sprinters from 2006-2014 have the same engine.
Best of luck.

--Roland, 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland, 3.0 CRD, EHM and TRD
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post #4 of 13 Old 11-29-2020, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
jp425
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Thanks for the reply rokrau. The alternator was replaced with a new one. But here is the kicker when the vehicle was started for the third time the batt light came back on. I'm the person who swapped out the alternator figuring a Jeep with 187,000 mile probably needed a new alternator. So I unhooked the battery thinking the new alt. was bad and about to take it off when I thought wouldn't it show to be bad on the first start not from the third start on. The next thing I did was hook the battery back up started the Jeep and waa-laa no battery light until the third start. I did this numerous times to confirm there was a pattern. Next I took the new alt. off and reinstalled the old one. Same scenario with the old alt. every third start after a disconnect reconnect of the battery. Next I thought I'd get a after market regulator kit to bypass the PCM's on board regulator. Nobody makes one for the CRD's. CDR's only have one wire coming from the alternator, regulator kits require two. Not being that savvy with automotive electrical I decided not to pursue that any further. So my next step was to have the PCM repaired. Do you know how hard it is to find a facility that repairs PCM's for a diesel Jeep? I found one in Florida. Sent my PCM to them they called me back days latter telling me it was fried and I needed a new one. Twelve hundred dollars later I received a new Bosch PCM same OEM number and thinking I was good to go installed it. It was already supposed to be programmed VIN specific to my vehicle and a Lifetime Warranty. Great salesmanship on their part. Everything all installed, buttoned up put the key in and nothing. Dash lights came on but that was it. After calling the vendor I discovered the keys were not programed for the PCM. To the dealer we go to have this taken care of. Dealer tells me they can't communicate with the new PCM. After several calls to vendor I get $1000 of my $1200 back. Back charges for determining my old PCM was junk. I did finally get the old PCM back after it was opened up and it wouldn't fire my GC up either. They did not have another PCM to send me. So at that point I decided to go the dealer route. That's where I'm hanging right now and prompts my request for the electrical diagram. It's a shame we live in such a throw away society. I flew to Southern California to buy this vehicle in 2018 because I knew it wouldn't be rusted out. I live in Iowa where the road salt destroys vehicles in matter of ten years. It appears the auto makers quit making replacement parts at that time also. For you people that read this thankyou for your time I hope it wasn't too boring. If any of you readers have any insight for me please jump in. This 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD is to nice of a vehicle for the scrap yard.
Again Thankyou and Happy Holidays

2007 GC 3.0 CRD
Bone Stock
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Jeep owner since 1973
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post #5 of 13 Old 09-21-2021, 09:15 PM
Erikjonvan
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Wondering how your jeep turned out. I have the exact same model with nearly the same issues. I bought the vehicle and while driving it 20 miles to my home in Yukon, OK a little lightning bolt appeared over the tach and I suddenly I found myself standing on the side of I-40 with the hood up and covered in diesel and grease. Pretty much where I have spent the past 6 months.Luckily for me this was to be a luxury. A second vehicle to take for a drive on Sunday. I have tried and every time ended up on the roadside. Never gotten to drive it without the ETC triggering limp mode. I got to hear the Turbo whistle for about ten minutes. Lol. I have too many problems with it now to lis
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post #6 of 13 Old 09-22-2021, 03:56 PM
DarkSideofWill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp425 View Post
Thanks for the reply rokrau. The alternator was replaced with a new one. But here is the kicker when the vehicle was started for the third time the batt light came back on. I'm the person who swapped out the alternator figuring a Jeep with 187,000 mile probably needed a new alternator. So I unhooked the battery thinking the new alt. was bad and about to take it off when I thought wouldn't it show to be bad on the first start not from the third start on. The next thing I did was hook the battery back up started the Jeep and waa-laa no battery light until the third start. I did this numerous times to confirm there was a pattern. Next I took the new alt. off and reinstalled the old one. Same scenario with the old alt. every third start after a disconnect reconnect of the battery. Next I thought I'd get a after market regulator kit to bypass the PCM's on board regulator. Nobody makes one for the CRD's. CDR's only have one wire coming from the alternator, regulator kits require two. Not being that savvy with automotive electrical I decided not to pursue that any further. So my next step was to have the PCM repaired. Do you know how hard it is to find a facility that repairs PCM's for a diesel Jeep? I found one in Florida. Sent my PCM to them they called me back days latter telling me it was fried and I needed a new one. Twelve hundred dollars later I received a new Bosch PCM same OEM number and thinking I was good to go installed it. It was already supposed to be programmed VIN specific to my vehicle and a Lifetime Warranty. Great salesmanship on their part. Everything all installed, buttoned up put the key in and nothing. Dash lights came on but that was it. After calling the vendor I discovered the keys were not programed for the PCM. To the dealer we go to have this taken care of. Dealer tells me they can't communicate with the new PCM. After several calls to vendor I get $1000 of my $1200 back. Back charges for determining my old PCM was junk. I did finally get the old PCM back after it was opened up and it wouldn't fire my GC up either. They did not have another PCM to send me. So at that point I decided to go the dealer route. That's where I'm hanging right now and prompts my request for the electrical diagram. It's a shame we live in such a throw away society. I flew to Southern California to buy this vehicle in 2018 because I knew it wouldn't be rusted out. I live in Iowa where the road salt destroys vehicles in matter of ten years. It appears the auto makers quit making replacement parts at that time also. For you people that read this thankyou for your time I hope it wasn't too boring. If any of you readers have any insight for me please jump in. This 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD is to nice of a vehicle for the scrap yard.
Again Thankyou and Happy Holidays
That's a pretty terrible story.
My instrument panel was giving me a low voltage indicator. Since the alternator can't be tested outside the vehicle, I had a local electric motor shop inspect it and replace the regulator. That worked fine, but the instrument panel stills gives me a low voltage indication. Checking the voltage at the battery with a meter shows that the voltage is fine and the indication is false. Sigh.
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-27-2021, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
jp425
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2007 Jeep GC 3.0 CRD wiring diagram

Sorry for the late reply. But nothing has really changed. The dealer said I need a new WIN module as the one I have will not communicate with the new PCM. Strange it worked fine with the old PCM. Reinstalled the old PCM now it won't start the vehicle either. It worked fine before I sent it in to be repaired for the charging issue. My dealer said the new WIN module is on back order because Jeep has changed vendors. This module has been on order since January of 2020 with two delivery dates that have never been met. There is a aftermarket WIN module supplier from from the southwest who always has post on youtube. I've talked to him on the phone but I'm not convinced this is my problem. I've tried getting wiring schematics from the dealer with no avail. One of their service men told me there is a WIN module by pass but he has since retired before getting me the information. The aftermarket Win module is $750 with no guarantee and no return. I paid $250 for the factory unit almost two years ago that I'm still waiting on. I would love to have the schematic so I can start a process of elimination or do my own by pass wiring to make this vehicle road worthy again. In July it will have been three year since it has run. I flew to California to purchase this vehicle four years ago just because it was a diesel. My wife tells me to get rid of it but it's just too nice of a vehicle for the scrap yard. I know this is probably going against all the moderators rules but feel free to email me or better yet call my cell phone Jim three one nine two three one five five seven eight. . A phone conversation is so much more informative.
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post #8 of 13 Old 09-27-2021, 02:30 AM Thread Starter
jp425
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The regulator is in the PCM how did they replace it? These jeep diesels have one wiring lug on the alternator and there are no aftermarket kits for this application. All information is welcome I'm begging for help. Knowing what I know now I would have Installed a alternator with two lugs to begin with and saved Thousands of dollars. Now I'm not sure what my vehicles problem is and neither does the dealer. I guess this is the snow ball effect. I've went through a lot of Jeep GCs in my life all have succumbed to the road salt applied in Iowa and one was totaled in a rear end collision all had minor problems never much more than a water pump.

2007 GC 3.0 CRD
Bone Stock
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Jeep owner since 1973
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post #9 of 13 Old 10-06-2021, 05:54 PM
PA55
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This diagram any good?
https://schematron.org/image/wk-crd-...diagram-22.jpg

2010 Wk 3.0 CRD Overland
2003 WJ 2.7 CRD Overland
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post #10 of 13 Old 10-07-2021, 12:54 AM
rokrau
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Maybe you could give TDanzig from CBEnginner a call since he too lives in Iowa. https://cb-engineer.com/ Is his website.
That dude knows the WK CRDs better than most other folks. And many moons ago he was quite active here.

Your other option is a capable Sprinter shop.

Best of luck!

--Roland, 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland, 3.0 CRD, EHM and TRD
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post #11 of 13 Old 10-11-2021, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
jp425
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I've owned Jeeps since 1973' My wife wants to buy a new Grand Cherokee. If they came with a diesel I might consider a Trail Hawk. Jeeps choice of engines is limited. So for power I could get the boat anchoring 5.7 that's a big NO. So now I'm considering a ford product if they offer the Coyote like they do in the F150 only in a SUV platform. The Coyote 150s are getting 26mpg highway not going to get that with a HYMY. The United States missed the boat when it came to diesel powered passenger vehicles.

2007 GC 3.0 CRD
Bone Stock
Retired Toolmaker
Jeep owner since 1973
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post #12 of 13 Old 10-13-2021, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
jp425
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Sorry for my poor etiquette rokrau for not thanking you for the lead on CBE. I put in a call this morning and left a message with them. Should you or any other readers come across any information it will be much appreciated. Some where over the rainbow there has to be an answer that will lead to the solution.
Again! Thanks to all whose eyes grace this information hopefully some day it my help them with their future problems.

2007 GC 3.0 CRD
Bone Stock
Retired Toolmaker
Jeep owner since 1973
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post #13 of 13 Old 10-13-2021, 12:12 PM
badgerwithhands
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Garage
The sprinter uses a single wire, not the WK/WH CRD. To upgrade to a 220 amp alternator for a sprinter, I had to swap the voltage regulator on the alternator for the proper connection.

As far as I know, the PCM does the actual regulating but there is still a voltage regulator on the alternator. See images.

Original regulator on my original alt:


One that came with the sprinter 220 amp:

07 WK Overland CRD, cargo LEDs, OME HD, MOPAR skids, rack,
future mods: tires, lights, CB, skids,
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