2007 4.7 looking for more midrange power - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 7 Old 06-12-2019, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
Robber
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2007 4.7 looking for more midrange power

I have a 2007 wk with 150k on it 4.7 flex engine. I Started pulling an enclosed trailer cross country and noticed when wind is blowing I am running right below the kick down range. (Torque app actual throttle position in the 30% range)- (kicks down around 40%). Then it is a lot of trouble to get the trans to upshift again to 5th gear after it kicks down on a gust or upgrade on road. So looking for quick way- few hundred price range to increase mid range power. I do have larger tires than stock 245/70R17. So that is an option going back to stock. I had thought about a air intake system, but thought that would be more for high throttle gains instead of the driving range. Then there is the programer angle which I have thought go before but never did. As for exhaust all orginal - I want to keep it quiet - I like detail in my music so I don't won't to drown it out. I am putting in new plugs today previous platinum plugs with 50k on them look good. I run synthetic oil, have aux trans cooler of course, stock air filter is clean, and yes running in tow/haul.
Any tips what you found that worked good?

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post #2 of 7 Old 06-12-2019, 09:19 AM
90grandoneer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robber View Post
I have a 2007 wk with 150k on it 4.7 flex engine. I Started pulling an enclosed trailer cross country and noticed when wind is blowing I am running right below the kick down range. (Torque app actual throttle position in the 30% range)- (kicks down around 40%). Then it is a lot of trouble to get the trans to upshift again to 5th gear after it kicks down on a gust or upgrade on road. So looking for quick way- few hundred price range to increase mid range power. I do have larger tires than stock 245/70R17. So that is an option going back to stock. I had thought about a air intake system, but thought that would be more for high throttle gains instead of the driving range. Then there is the programer angle which I have thought go before but never did. As for exhaust all orginal - I want to keep it quiet - I like detail in my music so I don't won't to drown it out. I am putting in new plugs today previous platinum plugs with 50k on them look good. I run synthetic oil, have aux trans cooler of course, stock air filter is clean, and yes running in tow/haul.
Any tips what you found that worked good?
There are a few things you can do to help get a little more "umph" out of your vehicle and you've addressed about all of the fairly inexpensive ones.

--First, and foremost, go back to a stock DIAMETER tire. You can easily find a tire with a larger footprint that is the same diameter as stock. Or, you could even go to a tire that is about one inch shorter in diameter to, in effect lower the final drive ratio. Don't want to go too far though.

--You're right about the intake system, but you can improve it a bit by adding a second inlet into the airbox (won't help that much in mid-range though) but, for sure install a high flow air filter. The July 2013 edition of Mopar Muscle Magazine did dyno tests on the power losses of the various engine driven accessories, oils and filters. A stock paper element air filter reduced the hp. by 14.4 hp. and the torque was down by 10.4 lb. ft. A high flow air filter reduced the numbers to 5.9 hp. and 5.5 lb. ft. of torque.

--Engine oil should be the factory recommended weight, preferably synthetic. Here's what MM Magazine said about oil weights. The difference between 5W-20 and 20W-50 showed the peak power losses to be 16.4 hp. and 12.0 lb. ft. of torque.....of course the lighter weight oil was the better of the two.

--A tuning programmer would be an excellent idea, specifically a Superchips Tuner with the ability to control some of the transmission functions, i.e. up and downshift speeds and torque management settings. You're going to want the engine RPM somewhere into the torque curve at normal cruise. This means you don't want to lug it. Check your engine hp. and torque RPM ranges. (On mine, with the cam I have installed, I have to run it in 4 gear on the highway (about 2200 RPM...a little higher would be better yet) to get the best fuel economy. Below that, at cruise, it's a real dog.) Also, along these lines, add a Transgo Shift Kit and a Sonnax Transmission Line Pressure Booster. Each of these cost only about $50 and the pressure booster is plug and play (about a week's driving to relearn) and the Shift Kit would be installed when you service the transmission....which you should do if you haven't already. If you're somewhat mechanically inclined, it is a fairly easy install after removing the valve body. These mods. will make the transmission about as good as it can get and, with a little experimenting, you can set the shift schedules and torque management settings to suit your towing needs.

--On the exhaust, about as good as you can do is install a large straight through (no switchbacks) muffler and resonator. A good muffler shop should be able to point you in the direction of some that are low restriction AND fairly quiet too. You probably won't be able to find one as quiet as the stock setup, but you should be able to come close.

All of this stuff should make things work a little better and give you a bit more power for towing.
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post #3 of 7 Old 06-13-2019, 01:47 AM
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4.10 ratio gears would be interesting

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post #4 of 7 Old 06-13-2019, 04:34 AM
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I seem to recall really liking the under drive crank pulley I installed in my old 4.7 truck. FWIW. Seems that the brand of pulley I used is no longer available, but there is an ATI made damper/pulley.

http://www.3rdstrikeperformance.com/...oducts_id=1103

Not cheap really...though back when I did mine I noticed some fuel mileage gain as well.

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post #5 of 7 Old 06-13-2019, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robber View Post
I have a 2007 wk with 150k on it 4.7 flex engine. I Started pulling an enclosed trailer cross country and noticed when wind is blowing I am running right below the kick down range. (Torque app actual throttle position in the 30% range)- (kicks down around 40%). Then it is a lot of trouble to get the trans to upshift again to 5th gear after it kicks down on a gust or upgrade on road. So looking for quick way- few hundred price range to increase mid range power. I do have larger tires than stock 245/70R17. So that is an option going back to stock. I had thought about a air intake system, but thought that would be more for high throttle gains instead of the driving range. Then there is the programer angle which I have thought go before but never did. As for exhaust all original - I want to keep it quiet - I like detail in my music so I don't won't to drown it out. I am putting in new plugs today previous platinum plugs with 50k on them look good. I run synthetic oil, have aux trans cooler of course, stock air filter is clean, and yes running in tow/haul.
Any tips what you found that worked good?
When you increased the size of the tires, did you get the speedo changed?
My CRD shifted funny before I changed the computer. The computer sees a lot of inputs; speed and throttle position are the main; that it uses to calculate shift points. I would suggest getting that done before tearing the trans apart to put in a shift kit. As mentioned above, there are several tuners for the gasser that should be able to change that for you.


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post #6 of 7 Old 06-13-2019, 11:48 AM
90grandoneer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kolak View Post
4.10 ratio gears would be interesting
4.10's would be great to have, especially with the cam I have in mine. This guy doesn't want to spend that much $$$ though and gears wouldn't be that cheap.....I don't think.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS and HP tuners, Transgo Shift Kit, ARH Long Tube Hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads w/new valve seats, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's. Also 05 Hemi LX modded exactly like WK and Comp Cammed 06 300CSRT8.
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post #7 of 7 Old 06-13-2019, 01:31 PM
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It's labor that can be very expensive when doing gears. Shop prices vary widely - had a customer quoted $450.00 recently for labor for the entire job. That's quite reasonable. At the other extreme I've seen quotes of well over $1000.00 and that's just insane!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90grandoneer View Post
4.10's would be great to have, especially with the cam I have in mine. This guy doesn't want to spend that much $$$ though and gears wouldn't be that cheap.....I don't think.

Kolak Performance and Offroad
Member: Specialty Equipment Market Association
Telephone: 480 998-3661

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