2005 WK CRD parasitic draw - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 5 Old 11-07-2019, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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2005 WK CRD parasitic draw

My 2005 CRD WK has a parasitic draw. It's pretty bad. Strangely it started about 2 months ago after I used an Bluetooth enabled OBD2 scanner. That may be coincidental but who knows. Anyway here's the lowdown.

920mA - total draw with car locked engine off for a long time. Battery fully charged, etc.

PDC Fuses:
Fuse #3 - 80mA
Fuse #8 - 120mA
Fuse #13 - 220mA
Fuse #19 - 120mA

IPM Fuses:
IOD Fuse - 270mA

Interior Fuses:
Didn't check

As you see, most draw is in PDC and IPM. These figures are confirmed with multiple meters both analog and digital.

The numbers are crazy. Total draw should be under 50mA as far as I know. Has anybody seen anything like it on a WK?

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post #2 of 5 Old 11-19-2019, 10:44 AM
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I had a big draw on the IOD fuse as well. I tracked it down to the overhead console.

Feeling lazy I just snipped the wire that was sucking the battery dry. No more problems. I cut the wire in the footwell.

Everything I use on the overhead console still works (garage door remote, lights and compass). I never use the sunroof, maybe that was the culprit?
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post #3 of 5 Old 11-19-2019, 12:03 PM
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When measuring IOD, make sure to cycle the driver door open then closed once you have your meter hooked up and ready to go. If you want to be ready to pull fuses from the junction block under the dash, I would suggest opening the door then using a screw driver to close the latch in the door so it can be open but the car thinks its closed.

Chryslers especially don't like to go to sleep properly if you just hook the battery up and walk away. I have found they really need the wake-up cycle of opening and closing the door to wake everything up and allow it to go to sleep how it is supposed to. Not to say you don't have a draw, simply that you may have a way higher measured draw than you actually have, and it may be pointing you in multiple different directions instead of to the one actual draw.

Suggestions: never let the battery cable become disconnected from the post until you have the meter leads on, lift the cable end up while maintaining contact with the post. reach one lead under the cable end and the other to the cable end and you will be good. OR disconnect the battery, hook the leads up, set the battery cable on the battery post (just touching) open and close the driver door, wait a second, then lift the cable end off the battery post. This way when all the lights turn on, you don't run the risk of popping the fuse in the meter. The "proper" way would be to not let the battery cable end come disconnected from the battery. Sometimes the hard reset of a module that was locked up and causing a problem could fix the concern... for now. As a owner fixing his own his own problem this is not an issue, as a technician getting paid to fix a concern, this is typically an unpaid waste of time that will likely fail again down the road.

2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Work in progress...
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post #4 of 5 Old 11-19-2019, 03:47 PM
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I bought a DC clamp meter for my diagnosticating... highly recommended!
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post #5 of 5 Old 11-20-2019, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for commenting on this thread. There are updates. First, I got the battery replaced under warranty. The battery was tested professionally and found to be 63% operational. Luckily for me, despite being over 2 years old it came with a 4 year warranty. The vendor is still in business. They accepted and replaced with a brand new one.

Secondly, I realized that despite everything being switched off during my tests, the bonnet was still up. So I ensured that the bonnet up sensor was depressed during the test. Lo and behold the total draw is no down to 180mA. Most draw is on the IOD, in fact 160mA are. So when there's more time and it's not freezing outside I will test the fuses under the dash.
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