2005 WK 5.7 Heavy engine knock, stalling, hard start, out of nowhere - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 39 Old 11-14-2018, 07:17 AM
Nejeep
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So did you refresh, replace or just run with the JY heads?

EDIT:
I see in a later separate post you installed reman. heads, but now have more problems with coolant in your oil.
Hey man, hang in there, some days are like that.


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post #32 of 39 Old 12-05-2018, 07:06 AM
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Can you explain what a catch-can is or does? New to me, 06 hemi. First posting.
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post #33 of 39 Old 12-05-2018, 07:51 AM
Walt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niangua View Post
Can you explain what a catch-can is or does?.....
It is a container installed between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. Its purpose is to condense and collect oil vapors emitted from the crankcase and pulled out by intake manifold vacuum via the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve.
This collection device prevents oily vapor from being sucked into the intake manifold and coating it and other contact areas with oily crud. Periodically dumping the collected oil prevents it from reaching the atmosphere and causing more air pollution.

Here is link to the one many forum members use: http://billettechnology.net/bt/news/...nal-catch-can/

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post #34 of 39 Old 12-08-2018, 07:36 AM
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OK, got a question about doing heads on Hemi equipped WKs, is it possible to remove the heads with the engine still installed (enough clearance to lift them out, after removing the exhaust manifolds, etc or must the engine be pulled)? Just want to have some knowledge of the options, if I ever have to deal with this on my '07. Only engine I've ever pulled heads on was the old GM 4.3 in our boat and that was a simple job by comparison, plenty of room to work and very simple design. The thing that took the longest was cleaning the block deck surfaces and the cyl head bolt holes (thread chaser helps). If one was to buy a set of re-man Hemi heads like I did with the boat (dirt cheap for the old pre-vortec 4.3...) would they have corrected the issue with the valve seats as a routine machine shop operation?

I held on to our ancient '98 Grand with the 4.0 six partly because of these concerns....those engines can have their issues but ours is up to 177,000 and still running fine.
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2017 JK Unlimited Sport 6 spd
2007 WK Limited Hemi QDII
1998 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Selectrac
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post #35 of 39 Old 12-09-2018, 03:01 PM
Niangua
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Thanks Walt, I will look into one.
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post #36 of 39 Old 12-10-2018, 08:59 AM
90grandoneer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LouC View Post
OK, got a question about doing heads on Hemi equipped WKs, is it possible to remove the heads with the engine still installed (enough clearance to lift them out, after removing the exhaust manifolds, etc or must the engine be pulled)? Just want to have some knowledge of the options, if I ever have to deal with this on my '07. Only engine I've ever pulled heads on was the old GM 4.3 in our boat and that was a simple job by comparison, plenty of room to work and very simple design. The thing that took the longest was cleaning the block deck surfaces and the cyl head bolt holes (thread chaser helps). If one was to buy a set of re-man Hemi heads like I did with the boat (dirt cheap for the old pre-vortec 4.3...) would they have corrected the issue with the valve seats as a routine machine shop operation?

I held on to our ancient '98 Grand with the 4.0 six partly because of these concerns....those engines can have their issues but ours is up to 177,000 and still running fine.
Well, Lou, these things are boats, but of a different sort. To answer your questions, yes the 5.7 heads can be easily removed with the engine in place and is not really that difficult at all. You can probably also do it with the STOCK exhaust logs in place too. I had to pull the mid-length headers on mine though. You can also install it the same way. On my Hemi LX (a little more room under the hood and around the frame rails), I was even able to remove and replace the heads with the JBA Shorty Headers installed. Just be sure to replace all the exhaust manifold bolts/nuts/studs while you have it apart. Also, this would be a good time to replace the starter (if it's got lots of miles on it), O2 Sensors, MAP Sensor, and maybe the heater hoses. All this is much easier with the heads off.

If you're going to buy remanufactured heads, be absolutely sure all the seats have been replaced. IMO, the preferable way is to use your heads (you know where they've been and their current condition), and find a good automotive machine shop, preferably close by, so you can pop in and check on the job they're doing. I sent my pristine WK heads to a shop (Total Engine Airflow) half way across the country and they ended up ruining (so I was told) both of them and I ended up with heads of unknown history, one for sure had been previously worked on. On my LX, I had them done locally, and this worked out much better, plus he walked me through each step of the operation. Also, be aware that you may need some valve guides also. I had to have some done on all four heads.....WK had 109K on it and LX had only 81K on it. Bottom line, get it all done right and be sure to have the valve springs either checked or replaced. I have aftermarket cams in both of mine so I had all new PAC springs installed in both and all were ported, polished, and .030 milled off them.

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post #37 of 39 Old 12-10-2018, 04:16 PM
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Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it. I have to get past the fact that its not a simple all cast iron small block Chevrolet! Being that the Hemi is not an overhead cam, it does make the head removal simpler. I have a machine shop I worked with when I did the top end overhaul on that old 4.3, I can ask them if they are familiar with the Hemi valve seat issue. They checked out my old 4.3 heads and found that the cooling ports were getting eroded from salt water use and the center exhaust valve seat area was cracked on both sides (past overheat). So they sold me these....
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post #38 of 39 Old 12-10-2018, 07:17 PM
90grandoneer
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Years ago I used to work on both small and big block GM engines.....Chevy and Oldsmobile mostly, and the Hemi is maybe a little easier, mostly because the heads are aluminum....not cast iron. Pretty much just remove the strut brace, intake manifold, unhook everything that is attached to the heads....EGR Valve, Power Steering Pump, alternator, etc., pull the valve covers, remove the rocker shafts, pull the pushrods, loosen the bolts and pull them off. Of course you'll be unhooking the "Y" pipe at the exhaust manifolds. I didn't unhook any of the plumbing/wiring....just moved it and bungied it out of the way. Same for both the electrical boxes. On these you may have to unplug the big plugs, but that shouldn't be a problem.

Get a top end gasket/seal kit from RockAuto or such (about $200) and have fun. A few things to be aware of are, there is a right and left head gasket (they're marked left and right and top) and are not interchangeable. There is a specific way to torque the heads....kind of strange....two different torque values and then an additional 1/4 turn. You'll have to mark the bolts (I did it after the second torque) so you can see when the additional 1/4 turn is complete. I used a yellow China Marker, but if I ever do it again, I'll use some bright colored nail polish or paint. The China Maker didn't stay on too well. Be sure to use NEW head bolts...they're cheap from RockAuto. You might be able to save a buck or two by taking the valve seals into the machine shop before they finish the heads. If you plan to get a little more power, have the heads milled, no more than .030 in. It's worth about 20-25 PSI (at least on both of mine) in compression pressure. I did a compression check both before and after the jobs. I am guessing the additional compression pressure (it'll now be about 10.1:1 vs. the stock 9.6:1) is worth about 10-15 more horsepower. Also, be sure to have them, at a minimum, check the valve spring tensions and insure all installed spring heights are exactly the same, according to the specs. Again, if you're planning to add a little power and have to (or want to) replace the valve springs, consider going with the 6.1 exhaust valve springs. They offer a bit more installed tension and are needed with almost all mild performance cams. They'd also work good on a stock 5.7. I have two sets laying around that have fairly low mileage on them. I also have two sets of stock springs with a little more mileage on them. If you may be interested, I'll give you a good deal and I can also tell you the exact number of miles on each set.

Also, if the machine shop normally does head work, I'll guarantee they'll know about this one. I was surprised to find that the shops near me have seen problems with all (except the 6.1's) of the early Chrysler engines.....3.7, 4.7, 5.7.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, TruFlow Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS and HP tuners, Transgo Shift Kit, ARH Long Tube Hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads w/new valve seats, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's. Also 05 Hemi LX modded exactly like WK and Comp Cammed 06 300CSRT8.
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post #39 of 39 Old 12-12-2018, 06:14 PM
LouC
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Thanks again, this is great information and I will start looking round for a shop that really knows these engines. The one I got the 4.3 heads from is primarily an old school Chevrolet shop. When I did that job I replaced all the head bolts because they were pretty corroded due to the raw water cooling system (salt water). I used a set of ARP head bolts. I was amazed that I was able to get that engine apart without breaking even one bolt. I used my DeWalt electric impact gun and the head bolts came out slowly but they came out.
I'll have to start asking around to find out which shop does a lot of Hemi work....

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