2005 WK 5.7 Heavy engine knock, stalling, hard start, out of nowhere - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 39 Old 08-25-2018, 10:20 AM
90grandoneer
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Yup, Ca. Kind of sucks these days. But I've been here all my life and can't really see leaving.
I was a native too, but I think I saw the writing on the wall and bailed at my first opportunity. Much better life/lifestyle now.

I think if you get the O2's changed you'll save a ton of $$$ on fuel, as I am sure it's pretty spendy there now.


06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, AFE Air Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS and HP tuners, Transgo Shift Kit, ARH Long Tube Hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads w/new valve seats, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's. Also 05 Hemi LX modded exactly like WK and Comp Cammed 06 300CSRT8.
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post #17 of 39 Old 08-26-2018, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all for the responses once again. As this story continues, i still dont know what the problem is. The electrodes on the spark plugs do not have any damage on them, took the borescope to it; nothing damaged, no check engine, no lights, all seems fine.... except for the knock, that seems to come from the left head, rough idle and the stalling. Also i didn't mention, but the jeep has been leaking oil over the last few months around the left side of the engine. I don't know if this is relevant, but its not the valve covers leaking, almost seems like its from the manifold then leaks down through the little valley past the water pump (on the left side) and down to the alternator bracket (rather a significant leak). Any thoughts?
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post #18 of 39 Old 08-26-2018, 09:46 PM
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Hope you have escaped the valve seat issue.

I have poured thru a bunch of threads about dropped valve seats, but can't get an assessment of how likely it is to occur - does anyone have a good idea?
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post #19 of 39 Old 08-27-2018, 01:04 PM
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Do a compression test to see if that indicates any problems with one or more cylinders.

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post #20 of 39 Old 08-27-2018, 03:37 PM
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Does 5.7 hemi normally start with mds active or inactive?
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post #21 of 39 Old 08-28-2018, 06:35 AM
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Does 5.7 hemi normally start with mds active or inactive?
There are a series of permissives for MDS to engage. Several of these are:
  1. oil temperature
  2. speed (>22 mph)
  3. engine load
  4. engine oil viscosity (5W-20)
  5. xmission in drive and in 5th gear.

You can lock out MDS by selecting 5th gear or pushing the Tow/Haul switch.

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post #22 of 39 Old 08-28-2018, 08:36 AM
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Ok, I was just thinking if the engine starts (or idles) with MDS on, (with just four cylinders) and one of the solenoids (or some other gimmick controlling the system) is busted, it might lead to unsuccessful start. But apparently the system is only active when driving?
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post #23 of 39 Old 08-28-2018, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Jpe61 View Post
Ok, I was just thinking if the engine starts (or idles) with MDS on, (with just four cylinders) and one of the solenoids (or some other gimmick controlling the system) is busted, it might lead to unsuccessful start. But apparently the system is only active when driving?
Correct.

MDS solenoids would likely generate a DTC if they were not reacting when commanded to do so.
Addl. info: http://wkjeeps.com/wk_engines.htm#MDS

HEMI CLUB MEMBER #45; SILVER WK CLUB MEMBER #13
'08 WK GC Limited. 5.7L HEMI. Quadra-Trac II. Bright Silver Metallic. Class IV hitch.
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post #24 of 39 Old 08-28-2018, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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So as it happens, one of the pistons broke and i will be needing a new engine. I plan on buying a junkyard one with around 100K miles that is in good condition. Anything I should do to the engine while its not in the vehicle before i put it in? Are the valve seats difficult to replace by yourself?

Thanks.
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post #25 of 39 Old 08-29-2018, 08:07 AM
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Valve seat issue was mainly in '05-'06 engines (as I've been told). Replacing the valve seats is a machine shop only type of repair. I would not try to do it yourself.
As far as what to do to the "new" engine, I'd go through it pretty it good with new rings, bearings, gaskets, clean the cyl bores, etc. But that's me and I'm of a fairly mechanical mindset. Gaskets, rings, bearings - will run in the few hundred dollar range (minimum), but it's peace of mind to me.

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post #26 of 39 Old 08-29-2018, 08:31 AM
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Finding a newer 5.7 (07 or later) should reduce the chance of a dropped valve but I dont remember which years are direct swaps for the 05. Some of the more well versed members here should be able to advise on that.

I believe the dodge truck 5.7s are basically the same but you would likely need to swap oil pans and some other external parts.

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post #27 of 39 Old 08-29-2018, 11:53 AM
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I'm thinking a 6.1 would drop right in.

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post #28 of 39 Old 08-30-2018, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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So i have bought a 5.7 V8 junk yard hemi for $1000 with 140,000 miles, compression tested and with warranty, thinking about putting some new heads on it, ($300 per head). What else should i replace on the engine apart from, timing chain, tensioners, valve cover gaskets, head gaskets, motor mounts, oil pan gasket, oil pump?
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post #29 of 39 Old 09-01-2018, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.7 WK View Post
So i have bought a 5.7 V8 junk yard hemi for $1000 with 140,000 miles, compression tested and with warranty, thinking about putting some new heads on it, ($300 per head). What else should i replace on the engine apart from, timing chain, tensioners, valve cover gaskets, head gaskets, motor mounts, oil pan gasket, oil pump?
A broken piston is fairly rare on the Hemi's, but occasionally have happened. Most that I have heard about occurred when forced induction was added and either too much boost or too lean a mixture or both caused it. The problem with the Hemi pistons are that they are sand cast and their top ring land is too close to the top of the piston.

I would definitely have ALL the valve seats replaced in BOTH of the heads that come off that engine, even though the dropped valve seats are usually the intakes. I've proactively done this with both my Hemi's and, in addition to the new valve seats, I had to have all the exhaust valve guides replaced on my LX heads which only had 81,000 miles on them. IMO, the other stuff should be on an as needed basis, but if you pull the heads, you'll be replacing head/valve cover gaskets. The oil pan gasket, with the engine installed (4WD) is a real pain to change, so it's your call. The timing chain and oil pump are probably not bad (definitely check them though), but the 5.7 timing chain tensioner (the nylon follower) may be worn pretty well at 140K. When I had both of mine apart (installing an aftermarket camshafts) I replaced the tensioners with 6.1 units, which are a little more "hearty". A top end gasket kit is about $200 from RockAuto and an 6.1 tensioner is about $30-50 from the dealer.

As far as other stuff when the engine is out of the vehicle, I'd recommend you do, as a minimum the items I outlined in my post No. 8 of this thread:

"Also, IMO, it would be a good idea, if the engine has to come out of the vehicle, to replace ALL the items that are tough to get to and/or expensive to fix when the engine is installed. This, at a minimum are the things I'd address.......front differential bushings, O2 Sensors, exhaust manifold studs/bolts/nuts, motor mounts and crank sensor. If the starter is the original, I'd probably replace it too, as 190K (140K on your used engine) on the engine equals a whole lot of starts."

After you get all this done, install a catch can, a lower temperature thermostat and set the cooling fan start temperatures to lower settings.

06 GCO, Dk Khaki, QDII, Flshing Hi 3rd Bk Lt, MDS "ON" Lt, Airtab Vortex Gens, Debadged, Fumoto Drain Valve, BT Catch Can, Chopped EGR Tube, SRT8 CAI, AFE Air Filter, Sonnax Trans Line Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tune App, DS and HP tuners, Transgo Shift Kit, ARH Long Tube Hdrs w/3 in Magnaflow/Xlerator AP Exh Sys, Bilsteins, SRT Springs/Sways, Cust Eng Cvr, SRT8 frt/rear bumpers, FRI Sidewinder Cam w/6* advance/6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK true 90mm T-Body, SOS Ign Coils w/.060 spark plug gaps, TEA ported/milled heads w/new valve seats, SRT Reps with 265/45&295/40X20's. Also 05 Hemi LX modded exactly like WK and Comp Cammed 06 300CSRT8.
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post #30 of 39 Old 11-06-2018, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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After much wrenching and 2 months later, the engine is fully functional and up and running again. Thank you everyone for the help!
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fuel pump , hard start , knock , stalling

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