08 crd transmission fluid change question - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 04-30-2021, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
HankyD
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08 crd transmission fluid change question

Hi there,


So I purchased a dip stick for my 08 crd GC and checked my fluid level. Although it was full, I was disappointed with the color of the fluid itself. So I'm going to change it along with the filter and the gasket.

I know this is a simple procedure and I've seen a couple vids on youtube. 2 questions remain...

i) It's my understand that this procedure takes 5 liters. Then again, some sources have said 4?

ii) Because fluid remains in the system (your only changing 1/2 the fluid or so with this procedure), doesn't it make sense to do this 4-5 times to get most of the old stuff out?

This seems intuitive, however, the sources I've come across thus far don't seem to mention this methodology.


Thoughts,

-h

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post #2 of 8 Old 05-01-2021, 11:39 AM
SteveROntario
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Yes, you can use the drain for faster service after you change the filter and clean the pan. You will eventually have conductor plate problems and need to pull the bottom of the transmission apart so that will get you another fluid change when that happens.

2013 Civic, 2009 Suzuki DRZ-400SM, 2008.5 Grand Cherokee CRD, 1991 Dodge B250, 1934 Hupmobile 417W
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post #3 of 8 Old 05-01-2021, 10:20 PM
Gray203m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HankyD View Post
Hi there,


So I purchased a dip stick for my 08 crd GC and checked my fluid level. Although it was full, I was disappointed with the color of the fluid itself. So I'm going to change it along with the filter and the gasket.

I know this is a simple procedure and I've seen a couple vids on youtube. 2 questions remain...

i) It's my understand that this procedure takes 5 liters. Then again, some sources have said 4?

ii) Because fluid remains in the system (your only changing 1/2 the fluid or so with this procedure), doesn't it make sense to do this 4-5 times to get most of the old stuff out?

This seems intuitive, however, the sources I've come across thus far don't seem to mention this methodology.


Thoughts,

-h
1) it's 4 to 5 litres. I think my changes averaged 4 1/2. Buy 6, return what you don't use. Not a big deal. I measured the amount that came out and poured the same amount back in, and then used the dipstick to fine tune.

2) I think that will depend on the service history of the vehicle. I received no record of transmission fluid being changed, so I changed the fluid and filter as soon as I bought it, and then changed just the fluid every 10,000km, about 4 or 5 times, until I was satisfied the majority of it was new fluid. If the fluid has been changed regularly, the theory is that replacing half the fluid regularly refreshes enough of it to extend the service life

2008 WK CRD North
GDE Eco Tune, DPF Delete
2" RC lift, 265/65R18 Duratracs
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post #4 of 8 Old 05-02-2021, 06:54 PM
Xmind
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As mentioned earlier, just put in what you drained, but no more. The transmission can act up if you put too much in. I also second the idea of replacing the conductor connector as long as you have it opened.

While not bad to drop the trans fuild pan, I brazed in an oil drain plug and that has saved me a lot of time over the years.

'07 GC CRD QDII
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post #5 of 8 Old 05-03-2021, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
HankyD
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okay, that's good to know, I think I will go ahead with the multiple change to get of the old fluid out, 5 liters will do.


Replacing the conducting plate, is that an easy endeavor?


Roughly, at about how many miles do they crap out at?


I don't know anything about automatic transmissions except they need fluid and they change gears automatically. lol


But, I am mechanically inclined.
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post #6 of 8 Old 05-04-2021, 06:14 PM
SteveROntario
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The conductor plate shorts out when there is too much metal in the oil. You'll end up with speed sensor problems and get stuck in limp mode. The connector is also prone to leaking but that can be changed independently of the plate.
I can't say when it happens, it's a common problem with the NAG1 and there are two types so you need to identify yours. I've started a thread on here somewhere about it.
The job involves removing the valve body, swapping some solenoids over to the new board, and putting it back together. All you need is an inch/lb torque wrench.

2013 Civic, 2009 Suzuki DRZ-400SM, 2008.5 Grand Cherokee CRD, 1991 Dodge B250, 1934 Hupmobile 417W
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post #7 of 8 Old Yesterday, 09:11 AM
badgerwithhands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveROntario View Post
The job involves removing the valve body, swapping some solenoids over to the new board, and putting it back together. All you need is an inch/lb torque wrench.
You'll need torx bits. Don't remember the size.

If you're going to bother to change out the electrical connector OR the conductor plate, change the other as well.

Also, pay close attention to the small selector pin in a plastic housing. It needs to be put back the same way and can be easy to miss. Its for the shifter.

07 WK Overland CRD, cargo LEDs, OME HD, MOPAR skids, rack,
future mods: tires, lights, CB, skids,
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post #8 of 8 Old Yesterday, 07:53 PM
Brit30-06
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Hi Lads.
For reference purposes, does anyone have the part number for the correct conductor plate for our W5J400 transmission please?
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