73 Wagoneer stock what can you tell me? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 178 Old 09-17-2011, 11:51 PM
Marn
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Originally Posted by 73pumpkin View Post
It is nice to get ecouragement and enthusiasm from all of you people out there. I bought a Chilton manual for the pumpkin yesterday and found it to be very useful and actualy a good read. I have seen some ads for Edelbrock carbs -used- in the local papers lately and may look into them for the future. One ad lists an Edelbrock 780 carb, which does not come up on their cataloge list on their website. I think that it might actually be a Holly carb and just missnamed. They wanted a hundred bucks for it, which might be alright if it was an Edelbrock 750. Anyway, I am looking forward to tinkering on it some more in the future. As I remember, Marnes is a bit of a gun nut. I just got a 45-70 barrel from my gunsmith with the instructions to draw file out the lathe marks where he had turned it down. Then he will polish the barrel and match it to the Martini Henry action I aquired a while back. I'll not be hunting with it this year, but maybe it will be ready next year. Where do you mount the gun rack in a Wagoneer?

I dont know much about holley carbs, looked into them alot when I had to replace my busted eddy, but ended upreplacing my eddy 1403 with a 1406, and couldnt be happier.

As for a gun rack, thats DEFINITELY on my list of things to add eventually. I want to fab something to go in one of the rear side windows, and on the opposite side it will have a similar rack for a shovel and axe or what have you.


-Andrew

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post #32 of 178 Old 09-17-2011, 11:52 PM
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.45-70 rocks.


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post #33 of 178 Old 09-18-2011, 02:35 AM
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TexTJ209 has/had a gun rack on sale for cheap at IFSJA.org not too long ago... I remember thinking I might buy it, but changed my mind since I always go shooting in my TJ.

Anyhow, his looks like a pretty common universal fit rack. I'll bet you could get something similar at most gun shops, or sporting goods stores.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=141584

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post #34 of 178 Old 09-18-2011, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Nice lever gun. Is it a Marlin? I should know on sight, but have not looked at lever actions in a while. I particularly like it in stainless and wood. I worked for a farmer a LONG time ago who kept a rifle in a single rack mounted across the dash with the barrel behind the steering column in a F-250. His truck was usually cluttered with various pistols on the seat and dash - fully loaded. His wife worked at the local cop shop, so law enforcement allowed a little slack for his eccentricities. a cop stopped him one day and, standing by the driver-side mirror, asked him if the gun behind the steering wheel was loaded. He said "I don't know, let's see," and reached up and snapped the trigger. I think the officer learned a valuable lesson that day. I don't think the farmer learned a damn thing, but he had a good laugh.
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post #35 of 178 Old 09-21-2011, 07:15 PM
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Nice lever gun. Is it a Marlin? I should know on sight, but have not looked at lever actions in a while. I particularly like it in stainless and wood. I worked for a farmer a LONG time ago who kept a rifle in a single rack mounted across the dash with the barrel behind the steering column in a F-250. His truck was usually cluttered with various pistols on the seat and dash - fully loaded. His wife worked at the local cop shop, so law enforcement allowed a little slack for his eccentricities. a cop stopped him one day and, standing by the driver-side mirror, asked him if the gun behind the steering wheel was loaded. He said "I don't know, let's see," and reached up and snapped the trigger. I think the officer learned a valuable lesson that day. I don't think the farmer learned a damn thing, but he had a good laugh.
Mhm, it's a marlin. 1895G. Tiny little thing but it packs a whallop!

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post #36 of 178 Old 09-21-2011, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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45-70s were usually chambered in a heavier gun so that little Marlin propably can jar your shoulder a little more than your basic .270. You do know that people have been loading up 45-70 cartridges pretty hot now because Ruger chambers their N0. 1 in 45-70 and the Ruger action is super strong. Some have loaded it up to rival a .458 Win. Mag. I bring this up because these hot commercial loads are available and if you mistakenly stuffed some in your Marlin, it might not handle the pressures. Something you should check into for safety'd sake. I'll have to be careful to get the old tame stuff for my Martini- Henry. Eventualy, I'll be set up to reload.
Back to Jeep forum stuff, I bought a reciever hitch to cut down and rebuild for my pumpkin today for $35. I start it up and dream almost daily.
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post #37 of 178 Old 09-21-2011, 09:02 PM
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45-70s were usually chambered in a heavier gun so that little Marlin propably can jar your shoulder a little more than your basic .270. You do know that people have been loading up 45-70 cartridges pretty hot now because Ruger chambers their N0. 1 in 45-70 and the Ruger action is super strong. Some have loaded it up to rival a .458 Win. Mag. I bring this up because these hot commercial loads are available and if you mistakenly stuffed some in your Marlin, it might not handle the pressures. Something you should check into for safety'd sake. I'll have to be careful to get the old tame stuff for my Martini- Henry. Eventualy, I'll be set up to reload.
Back to Jeep forum stuff, I bought a reciever hitch to cut down and rebuild for my pumpkin today for $35. I start it up and dream almost daily.
Off topic again but....

Yeah. The marlin is a modern gun that can handle most of the hotter stuff (30000PSI I think? I'll have to check my reloading manual) but it's not built for the hottest. The first page of the manual is listed for the old Springfield trap doors and other hold rifles, the second page is stuff for modern marlins, the third page is for the rugers, increasing in power on each page. The guide gun I have is built on the same receiver as the bigger marlin 1895s so the only issue with hot loads will be my shoulder.

That being said, almost all commercially (store bought at least) available .45-70 doesn't get anywhere NEAR the potential of the caliber. The reason being is that there are so darn many of the old *** rifles out there that some fool would buy ammo off the shelf, load it up, blow up, and then sue, so they keep it all pretty tame.

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post #38 of 178 Old 09-22-2011, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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I am glad that you are aware of the situation. I don't mean to tell anyone their own business, but I'd hate to hear of someone getting hurt because I was too lazy to convey the information or I didn't want to risk ofending them. I'll be loading mine light like the old soldiers did. they killed buffalo with the old trap door; I can probably kill an elk. Finding one will be the hard part.
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post #39 of 178 Old 09-22-2011, 07:43 PM
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I am glad that you are aware of the situation. I don't mean to tell anyone their own business, but I'd hate to hear of someone getting hurt because I was too lazy to convey the information or I didn't want to risk ofending them. I'll be loading mine light like the old soldiers did. they killed buffalo with the old trap door; I can probably kill an elk. Finding one will be the hard part.
Yup, .45-70 packs some punch, even in light configurations.
what kind of hitch did you get?

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post #40 of 178 Old 09-23-2011, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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It is a class III or IV reciever hitch off of a chevy truck or something. It had already been removed and was laying loose at the junkyard. It is a little wider than the jeep frame and will have to be cut down. I know a certified welder who owes me some work and he will probably fix it up for me. I love wandering around junkyards. Must be a latent white trash thing. It is hard to find one that isn't run by snouty salvage afficianados anymore. This one is run by a pair of old bikers - real ones - not the one or two summer warriors from Wall street that travel out here for Sturgis and a ride through Yellowstone.
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post #41 of 178 Old 11-29-2011, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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I have finally got back to working on the Pumpkin. I have the instument cluste, glove box, and radio out of the dash. Marns says to put both wires for the ammeter on one terminal to avoid running all of the voltage for the vehicle through the ammeter. Well, that is simple enough to do, but will my ammeter still work after ward? Would it be better to run a single wire up from the battery or fuse block to one side of the ammeter and then hook the original ammeter leads to the other terminal? What have others done to relieve the high stress on the old fragil ammeter?
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post #42 of 178 Old 11-29-2011, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 73pumpkin View Post
I have finally got back to working on the Pumpkin. I have the instument cluste, glove box, and radio out of the dash. Marns says to put both wires for the ammeter on one terminal to avoid running all of the voltage for the vehicle through the ammeter. Well, that is simple enough to do, but will my ammeter still work after ward? Would it be better to run a single wire up from the battery or fuse block to one side of the ammeter and then hook the original ammeter leads to the other terminal? What have others done to relieve the high stress on the old fragil ammeter?
the ammeter will not work if you move the wires to one post.

I believe this is a write up for getting ALL the power out of the inside of the truck. It installs a fuse and reroutes the main power from the alternator to stay outside of the passenger compartment, but still keeps the ammeter working.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=105253



All i did was clean the connections and make sure they were good and tight. I like the ammeter. If the connections are good and the gauge works fine, you shouldnt have any issues, provided you dont overload it with a bigger alternator. I also run a separate volt meter, as volt meter and ammeter tell you different things about the electrical system.


or do this, and replace the ammeter with a volt meter:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=17510

-Andrew

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post #43 of 178 Old 11-29-2011, 02:58 PM
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I second Marn. I cleaned up my electrical system, but left the ammeter intact. I could have deleted it easily enough, as I'd pulled my wiring harness for the clean up. I also bought the sunpro voltmeter, and added it to the system. I opted for a radio delete option, and found that the voltmeter fits in the old radio slot nicely with just a homemade plate to hold it in place.

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post #44 of 178 Old 11-29-2011, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the information Marn and Robert. The radio is at my radio repairman fried's house to see if it is any good. If not, I'll probably replace it with something more modern. Any suggestions from anyone on something that fits the hole without a lot of cutting would be apreciated. I think that someone removed the oil preasure wires and maybe the sensor because nothing was attached to the two posts directly above the ameter posts. I have not looked under the hood for the oil pressure sensor. Where is it normaly located, near the oil filter and pump? I have to put some new foam stripping on the heater damper door and put on the new vacuum hoses. Everything else looks pretty good under the dash. Hey Marn, hows your Wagoneer doing these days?
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post #45 of 178 Old 11-30-2011, 10:30 AM
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thanks for the information Marn and Robert. The radio is at my radio repairman fried's house to see if it is any good. If not, I'll probably replace it with something more modern. Any suggestions from anyone on something that fits the hole without a lot of cutting would be apreciated. I think that someone removed the oil preasure wires and maybe the sensor because nothing was attached to the two posts directly above the ameter posts. I have not looked under the hood for the oil pressure sensor. Where is it normaly located, near the oil filter and pump? I have to put some new foam stripping on the heater damper door and put on the new vacuum hoses. Everything else looks pretty good under the dash. Hey Marn, hows your Wagoneer doing these days?
The oil pressure sending unit is right behind/above the filter. Do yourself a favor and ditch it and the gauge in the dash. install a good, or cheap, mechanical gauge. Also do not use the nylon line that comes with a mechanical gauge from autozone or wherever, spend the extra 10 bucks and buy the copper wiring kit. The nylon ones will get old and brittle from heat and break, at best. Mine made contact with my exhaust manifold on a trail and melted and started spraying oil all over my burning hot exhaust, and all over the trail. A new gauge should come with all the fittings you need.

I finally got it back up and running after my trip up north. running like a top it seems. I guess i just had a tank of gas that wasn't agreeing with the jeep. After draining it and putting good gas in everything has been 100%. Needs a few lil things still though, but don't they all?

-Andrew

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