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post #1 of 13 Old 10-13-2008, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
DC4W-93XJ
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XJ Rear 4 Link

I thought I'd keep a little build journal for myself and others for ideas.. but the goal is to get rid of the leaf springs and bring in a triangulated 4 link with air shocks or possibly coil overs.. feel free to leave advice and comments!


here is the truss that i'll use to mount my upper links to. I used 3/8" plate for the front and back, 1/8" on top, then 1/4" on the inside for cross-members between the front and back..




this machine is awesome!!


thanks for looking.. more pictures to come!!


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"Tater 2" '91 2 door XJ chopped and bobbed, 4.0, AW4, dana 300, GM 60/70HD, 40" IROKs on H1s

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post #2 of 13 Old 10-14-2008, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
DC4W-93XJ
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end of yesterday.. here's what I ended up with

















Thanks for lookin!
More to come..

THIS AIN'T YOUR MAMA'S STATION WAGON!!
Built Jeep Tough With Chevy Stuff
"Tater 2" '91 2 door XJ chopped and bobbed, 4.0, AW4, dana 300, GM 60/70HD, 40" IROKs on H1s

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post #3 of 13 Old 10-14-2008, 09:40 AM
Matt Gertsch
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Looks sexy. Have you seen Wil Badger's old XJ? He had a custom, one off four link on his too. How close to the Rock Krawler 4 link design are you sticking?

I'll bet that NC plasma machine will be invaluable in the project. NC anything is pretty cool.

Derpy Hooves for President in 2012
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post #4 of 13 Old 10-14-2008, 10:54 AM
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Nice!

Any reason you didn't drill all the tabs on a drill press prior to welding them on? Hand drilling thru 3/8" kind of sucks. Plus, with the angled brackets, it may make it difficult to get the drill to fit some of those places? Just wondering.

Looks sexy.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #5 of 13 Old 10-14-2008, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
DC4W-93XJ
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your not the first to ask that haha.. and I'm sure I'll kick myself for rushing later..

THIS AIN'T YOUR MAMA'S STATION WAGON!!
Built Jeep Tough With Chevy Stuff
"Tater 2" '91 2 door XJ chopped and bobbed, 4.0, AW4, dana 300, GM 60/70HD, 40" IROKs on H1s

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post #6 of 13 Old 10-14-2008, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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And no i haven't seen Badgers rig.. I'll have to check it out.. and the only thing that the RockKrawler set up and my set up will have in common is the fact that there will be 4 links and coil-overs or air shocks.. I plan on having a central cross member that I can run all my links to rather than having individual mounting points like the RockKrawler setup uses, this way i can tuck as much as i can up in between the frame for ground clearance and hang up issues..

THIS AIN'T YOUR MAMA'S STATION WAGON!!
Built Jeep Tough With Chevy Stuff
"Tater 2" '91 2 door XJ chopped and bobbed, 4.0, AW4, dana 300, GM 60/70HD, 40" IROKs on H1s

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post #7 of 13 Old 10-14-2008, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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after looking at Badgers set up **Which was EXTREMELY well done** kudos to him.. I think I'll do the same kind of frame mount that he used, but instead of mounting the link on the bottom, I'll push it out next to and parallel the the frame. As for the uppers ill see if i can mount those on the inside of the frame mount.. Hows that sound??

THIS AIN'T YOUR MAMA'S STATION WAGON!!
Built Jeep Tough With Chevy Stuff
"Tater 2" '91 2 door XJ chopped and bobbed, 4.0, AW4, dana 300, GM 60/70HD, 40" IROKs on H1s

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post #8 of 13 Old 10-14-2008, 01:48 PM
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Sounds like you will not have enough separation at the frame end to me. There is a reason most people put their links on the bottom of the frame. If you want to tuck the lowers up and even with the bottom of the frame rail you will have to have your upper through the rear floor. Having the mounts to close with not enough separation can lead to handling problems and bad anti-squat.

You might want to read this article on how to build a 4 link suspension. It was written by 4 Wheel Offroad magazine. Its never wise to just jump into making a 4 link without a clue as to what you want in the end or long run. The last thing you want to do is build it one way only to find out it worse then having leafs. Then having to do it all over again the right way.

Thanks for the compliment on how I did mine. If I were to do it again it would be a bit different. I would still use the sleeves on each side but from that I would have made a belly pan and cross member for the lowers. I would have double triangulated the rear instead of the single that I did. If you want to look at a killing setup go over to Pirate or NAXJA and look Vetteboy79's

His setup design thread

Here are some pics of his




I still feel that he doesn't allow for enough separation but atleast he allows for being able to change it which I never did. I would make my cross member with a bit a drop to it. This way you can get just a bit more separation .

This is Clayton's rear cross member (see how it drops)




Other wise you would have to clock or replace the current transfer case as well.


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post #9 of 13 Old 10-14-2008, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Ok you've got me convinced to stick with the cross member.. As for the separation rule, I was told that obviously the further apart you upper and lowers are, the stronger you are. For a starting point, I was suggested to (for the uppers) no lower than the top of the pumpkin, (for the lowers) level with the bottom of the axle tubes. On the other end, do I want to keep them parallel separation wise? Thanks for the pics, articles, and advice.

THIS AIN'T YOUR MAMA'S STATION WAGON!!
Built Jeep Tough With Chevy Stuff
"Tater 2" '91 2 door XJ chopped and bobbed, 4.0, AW4, dana 300, GM 60/70HD, 40" IROKs on H1s

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post #10 of 13 Old 10-14-2008, 05:33 PM
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Read that article. It's going to tell you everything you want to know. Rough numbers would be,

If you have 9" of separation at the axle then you want half of that on the frame side. So you would want something in the 3.5~5" range. The closer you get to half the better. I would build in some type of adjustment like Vetteboy did. Each vehicle, driver, terrain is going to demand or want different anti-squat. By being able to move the lowers or upper control arms up or down you change the handling of the vehicle.

The closer you can make the control arm parallel to the ground the better off you are. This is not a must do kind of rule it just helps achieve a better arch in the suspensions cycle.

Another reason for separation is to eliminate axle steer. The way you are thinking of mounting them would give you a good bit of it. I would shoot for a true double triangulated 4 link. Like what is shown above. It will work and be much more stable as well as predictable.

I would also like to ask what you plan on doing with this rig. Is it a trailer queen? Or will this be a street driven vehicle? If it's mostly going to be trailer and you are not out romping it all day in the desert you will be fine with Airshocks and a good swaybar. If you plan on driving this on the street for extended periods of time I would say go all out and get the coilovers.


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post #11 of 13 Old 10-14-2008, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Trailer queen for sure!! My XJ I have now is my DD and its kind of a pain to have that thought in the back of your mind when doing something "boy its a long haul home if i break here" not so much if it gets trailered everywhere, ya know! Again thank you so much for all you help Badger!! Much appreciated!!!!

THIS AIN'T YOUR MAMA'S STATION WAGON!!
Built Jeep Tough With Chevy Stuff
"Tater 2" '91 2 door XJ chopped and bobbed, 4.0, AW4, dana 300, GM 60/70HD, 40" IROKs on H1s

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post #12 of 13 Old 10-16-2008, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wil badger View Post
You might want to read this article on how to build a 4 link suspension. It was written by 4 Wheel Offroad magazine. Its never wise to just jump into making a 4 link without a clue as to what you want in the end or long run. The last thing you want to do is build it one way only to find out it worse then having leafs. Then having to do it all over again the right way.
Wow, that is a killer article!!

John 3:17
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post #13 of 13 Old 10-16-2008, 10:03 PM
wil badger
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Ya that is one of the best 4 link write ups I have come across. It dumbs it down pretty good for the average person. There is a good bit that they don't get into but that would just make building one seem even more complicated.


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