5.9L Swap - engine died and won't crank - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 9 Old 07-15-2017, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
tjchris84
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5.9L Swap - engine died and won't crank

Hey guys,

After swapping PCMs, I got my 5.9L to fire up and idle great. This evening, I got the driveshaft put int and was going to take it for the first drive. I've been starting it in the garage, checking things, reading codes, and making sure everything was running right. It's been firing up almost instantly after turning the key and had no indication of any health issues.

I put it in reverse and drive a few times to maneuver out of the driveway, got out in to the middle of the road, shifted from reverse to drive, then it died. I pulled it back in the driveway and started checking everything out. It turns over, then starts to "catch", but never fully starts. If you stop the starter when it starts catching, it makes a weird sound and almost seems like it's dieseling. If you open the throttle body up, a puff of white smoke comes out. After trying to crank it and it "catching", a puff of white smoke comes out of the throttle body as well.

I checked the fuel rail and it has good fuel pressure. It's not throwing any codes when I scan with the ODB2 reader other than the battery temp (which I was planning to replace). The voltage was 12.68 volts, the dash wasn't shutting down or dimming. To me, it just doesn't make sense... in the garage (idling, mind you) it cranked fast, idle smoothly, and I probably started it 10 times or so. Backing out of the driveway it seemed to run fine... it is just strange to me that it would die like that.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be happening? It almost seems to me like the timing is off, or I'm getting a weak spark or something. I know it's getting plenty of fuel, and it seems to still have plenty of compression (plan to check it tomorrow).

I was thinking possibly the crankshaft position sensor? Does this normally throw a code, or does it just die like that? I did build my own harness, but I would think that since I've started it so many times already and it ran fine that it's not an issue.


1997 TJ, 5.9L Magnum, 46RE, 99 Durango drivetrain donor, 4" lift, 4.56 D35/D30
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post #2 of 9 Old 07-15-2017, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
tjchris84
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Oh I forgot to mention -- donor vehicle was a 1999 Dodge Durango automatic (5.9L 46RE). I am running a PCM out of a 1998 Dodge RAM (5.9L 46RE) because my Durango one had issues with security.

And to better describe the sound it makes -- almost like an empty compression sound (like GLOOP GLOOP), like it's not getting ignition at all.

It has open headers right now (so no o2 sensors), I was only going to drive it to the end of my street and back.

1997 TJ, 5.9L Magnum, 46RE, 99 Durango drivetrain donor, 4" lift, 4.56 D35/D30
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post #3 of 9 Old 07-15-2017, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
tjchris84
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Video of it running this past Wednesday, first time with the RAM PCM: https://youtu.be/RB9Sq_ijtrA

1997 TJ, 5.9L Magnum, 46RE, 99 Durango drivetrain donor, 4" lift, 4.56 D35/D30
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-16-2017, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
tjchris84
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This morning, it fired up like nothing was ever wrong. Any ideas?

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1997 TJ, 5.9L Magnum, 46RE, 99 Durango drivetrain donor, 4" lift, 4.56 D35/D30
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post #5 of 9 Old 07-27-2017, 04:56 PM
Necromancer_tat
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Does your PCM have the ability to self diagnose? Can you start it and have it run a self test/cylinder drop test?

To keep an engine running it needs air, fuel, and spark, with the correct fuel and spark timing of course.

Have you tested to see which is dropping out to prevent it from running? The factory security might cut both fuel and spark, but most aftermarket alarm systems just cut spark. I'm not sure how the factory system does it.

Have you tested your injectors?

Low voltage can cause issues also, make sure your battery is 100%

I'm curious how you work everything out cause I have a 2001 Ram 360V8 in my driveway that runs perfect and would be a cool swap into my TJ....
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-28-2017, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
tjchris84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Necromancer_tat View Post
Does your PCM have the ability to self diagnose? Can you start it and have it run a self test/cylinder drop test?

To keep an engine running it needs air, fuel, and spark, with the correct fuel and spark timing of course.

Have you tested to see which is dropping out to prevent it from running? The factory security might cut both fuel and spark, but most aftermarket alarm systems just cut spark. I'm not sure how the factory system does it.

Have you tested your injectors?

Low voltage can cause issues also, make sure your battery is 100%

I'm curious how you work everything out cause I have a 2001 Ram 360V8 in my driveway that runs perfect and would be a cool swap into my TJ....
It was definitely getting plenty of fuel, checked the pressure in the lines. I'm going to get the exhaust put on Monday so we will see how it does with o2 sensors.

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1997 TJ, 5.9L Magnum, 46RE, 99 Durango drivetrain donor, 4" lift, 4.56 D35/D30
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-01-2017, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
tjchris84
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Got it straightened out... had a bad ground and then just had to drive it a little.
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1997 TJ, 5.9L Magnum, 46RE, 99 Durango drivetrain donor, 4" lift, 4.56 D35/D30
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-05-2017, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
tjchris84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Necromancer_tat View Post
I'm curious how you work everything out cause I have a 2001 Ram 360V8 in my driveway that runs perfect and would be a cool swap into my TJ....
I wrote up my splices and parts used in this thread: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/wr...l#post38677841

You won't be disappointed with the swap...

If you have a leak detection pump in your 01 Ram, I'd recommend switching to a 98 PCM so you don't have to worry with getting that thing working. My wiring will more than likely be different than yours, but with the 99 Durango harness, you can use 2 of the plugs that go back in to the gray TJ harness to adapt the harnesses with very minimal manual splicing. When I was done, I ended up having the splices for the transmission, 2 splices for vehicle speed sensor, and a splice in to the ambient battery temperature. The rest I bought new connectors with new pins, replaced 2 connectors on the TJ gray plug, cut the 2 connectors on the Durango and pinned them up with the female connectors I added to the TJ gray plug harness.

Basically I labeled the pin numbers on each wire for Durango C105 and C106 and TJ C103 and C104, cut them, pinned the new connectors up as shown in the other post, and plugged them in. I bought a second Durango harness off eBay for < $100 that I used for the cutting and new connectors.
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1997 TJ, 5.9L Magnum, 46RE, 99 Durango drivetrain donor, 4" lift, 4.56 D35/D30
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post #9 of 9 Old 07-31-2019, 04:17 PM
Jo3Gee
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You can use the leak detection pump from the tj, that’s what i did to mine and it runs great. I stroked my 360 to 408 in my 2000 TJ. I even bypassed the charcoal canister and tucked the LDP under the “second battery tray” on the drivers side.
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