Wj front crank seal(s)? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 19 Old 05-17-2020, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
Hipmusicman
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Wj front crank seal(s)?

This should be an obvious answer but are there 2 seals for the crank on the front? One for timing cover and another for the block?

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post #2 of 19 Old 05-17-2020, 09:58 AM
Bigrigr
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Yes, you are correct. There is a front main seal, and the seal for the timing cover itself

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #3 of 19 Old 05-19-2020, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
Hipmusicman
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Is there an easy way of knowing if the front main is leaking? I know there's oil coming out of the timing over crank seal just not sure if that's all it's coming from.
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post #4 of 19 Old 05-20-2020, 08:06 AM
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Clean it up good with some Carb/choke cleaner, or at the car wash. and watch real close. You will see the oil drip off the crank pulley, or run down the front of the block behind the timing cover. (90% of the time, the leak will be the front main seal). The crank is always turning(obviously)and it wears this seal out. The timing cover seal never gets any wear. So unless you have taken things apart recently up there, it shouldnt be leaking....

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post #5 of 19 Old 05-20-2020, 08:35 AM
jtec
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also be sure PCV/CCV is working - fresh air and vac side, built up crank case pressure will 'overstress' the seals..

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #6 of 19 Old 05-20-2020, 09:14 AM
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If you think about it, the aging front main might weep a little bit but it's probably not going to leak like a sieve since, for one thing, vehicle motion is going to slosh the oil rearward toward the rear main rather than forward toward the front main. Soooo, if you're getting a lot oil at the front of the engine, it's probably coming from somewhere else. The most obvious place is going to be the valve covers, but also it could be the oil filter seal, the oil pressure sending unit, the timing cover, the oil pan or even the mating surface between the block and the girdle/skirt.

I hate oil leaks anywhere but I long ago resigned myself to the fact that my Jeeps are going to leak a little oil here and there.

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post #7 of 19 Old 05-20-2020, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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This engine is almost 30,000 miles old (reman) though that doesn't mean a whole lot just seems odd it would be a front main. I can tell you it's getting on the crank pulley and flinging everywhere. Plus it's a little more than just a small leak. I'd say 2-3 quarts loss per oil change at least. I can do the timing cover really easy so maybe it's a good place to start. From what I understand, the front main is easy as well. Of corse getting to it is another thing. But since I'd be right there at the timing cover, it might worth it.

Thoughts?
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post #8 of 19 Old 05-20-2020, 01:01 PM
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If you're going to remove the timing cover, the front main seal comes off with it. It's a pressed fit into a recess in the cover. Knock it out. Tap another one in.

Anyway, I wouldn't go to the trouble of removing the timing cover unless I was fairly certain that was the culprit. As someone else said, clean everything up and watch it closely to see if you can find the source. Also, there's a chance something isn't torqued down sufficiently.
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01 WJ Laredo 4.7/NP242
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post #9 of 19 Old 05-20-2020, 08:36 PM
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If you do the timing cover, the front main is a no brainer. Its installed into the timing cover. Definitely do both. Only real issue is getting the Crankshaft dampner off. That is fairly easy with the right puller.

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post #10 of 19 Old 05-20-2020, 09:46 PM
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@Hipmusicman , if you don't have your year/engine listed in your profile it helps to list it at the beginning of your thread or in your signature. I had to go back quite a few posts to figure out you have the 2000 4.7.

Why does it matter? The 99-00 4.7 doesn't have the hydraulic fan like the 01-04 4.7 does as stock. And this goes back to the good point Bigrigr just mentioned that it helps to have the right puller for removing the crank damper.

My main crank seal is leaking on my 04 4.7 and I'd rather just replace the seal itself. But I also have the hydraulic fan which believes gives me even less space to fit a harmonic balancer or damper puller in there. I wouldn't doubt I may end up having to remove the hydraulic fan but trying to avoid having to remove the radiator.

I bought the below compact harmonic balancer puller some time ago to use. I only wish it came with the plate with 3 holes in it to hold the crankshaft in place when trying to loosen or tighten the harmonic balancer bolt.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Without the hydraulic fan you'll have more room to work with. Like 99wjtx mentioned you may not want to do the whole timing cover if it's only the front main seal leaking or something else.

I'd also agree with jtec and my oil leak around my main seal slowed after I installed a new PCV valve. But if your seal is damaged or worn badly this likely won't make a big difference. Good luck.

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post #11 of 19 Old 05-21-2020, 08:54 AM
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Breaking the bolt loose on the harmonic balancer/main pulley is a little tricky even with the engine on a stand because of course the engine wants to turn as you're torquing on it.

A wrong solution to that problem which works is to wedge a BIG long screwdriver or 3/8 extension through the balancer/pulley and turn it until the screwdriver or extension contacts a corner of the block. Keep it off the oil pan flange or anything else bendable.

All that or buy the correct tool uniblurb was referring to. I'm all for investing in special tools but occasionally they're not strictly necessary.

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post #12 of 19 Old 05-22-2020, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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All of these are great tips. If you can imagine, though I may not have mentioned it, I've done all this already when I took the old engine out, and in turn, put the new engine in. I use a very long 3/8 extention to hold the pulley, breaker bar for the bolt, then a 2 claw puller for the pulley. Not too difficult at all. Although I had the entire front clip, condenser, and radiator out so plenty of room there. I won't take the condenser out for obvious reasons but the radiator will come out. I don't want to damage it, plus I need to fix a stupid leaky block heater that I've been fighting with for a while. This will be the 4th or 5th time I've drained the coolant just for that.

Aside from all that, my memory is pretty fuzzy on the gaskets since there were so many in different places. I know there is a seal right behind the crank pulley on the timing cover, but from what I understand there's another one beyond that? Does enyone have a picture or diagram?
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post #13 of 19 Old 05-22-2020, 09:55 PM
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Below is a link to a diagram but I'm not saying to buy a seal from them while I'd use the dealer. There's only 1 seal and 1 gasket which is exactly the same as the one on the front of the block in the real good photo by 99wjtx.

https://www.mymoparparts.com/oem-par...-seal-53020790

Mopar 53020790, Seal, Crankshaft Oil
Mopar 53020862, Gasket, chain case cover. (between timing chain cover and block)

Watch that you don't end up with a Crown seal because they'll use the same part number as OE. Also the above is for your 2000 4.7 same as the 01.

My 04 is different with another part number for the front crank seal and only the coolant passages have a gasket plus 2 o-rings.

2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 ZJ


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post #14 of 19 Old 05-22-2020, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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So just be super clear, crank seal, and timing cover gasket are the only 2 things.
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post #15 of 19 Old 05-23-2020, 11:11 AM
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Yes, and this diagram in the link is the same one in the official 2000 WJ parts list.

2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 ZJ


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