WJ Drag link end stuck in Pitman arm. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 18 Old 10-07-2018, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
TigerXXVII
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WJ Drag link end stuck in Pitman arm.

Replacing drag link ends on my WJ. Driver side end that goes into the pitman arm is stuck inside. Taken off the castle nut and pin. It just wont budge...

What I have tried:
-pb blaster
-hammered side of pitman arm
-hammered the drag link end itself downwards and from the side as well
-bent the pickle fork...
-more pb blaster
-removed the drag link sleeve so the only thing under there is the drag link end stuck in the pitman arm
-tried putting a cheater bar on the drag link end and standing on it. nope.
-tried wedging a bar ontop of the drag link end screw and pulling upwards. i pulled so hard that the jeep flipped twice, landed on the wheels, but the drag link end was still stuck in
-did i mention pb blaster? Because I rained it down on the drag link end like niagra falls.

My biceps are an amazing 11 inches bigger than before from the hours of hammering I have done on the WJ today. While this is pretty cool, I am still saddened that the drag link end is still stuck in the pitman arm. Any tips or advice on how to get it out?

Im not sure if my massive arms will be able to fit under the Jeep with a blowtorch... but that may be the only way...

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post #2 of 18 Old 10-07-2018, 09:06 PM
97Mule
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Use a puller, there are 2 sizes! The smaller one is for tie-rods the other for pitman-arms. Can find both in a package at the parts store or cheap ones at HF
Try not to beat on the pitman arm to much, it might jack with your steering box.
Put on puller with the center bolt pushing down on the tie-rod stud, tighten the bolt and tap down on it. And if that doesn't work also apply a little heat!


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post #3 of 18 Old 10-07-2018, 09:15 PM
ssm82
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There is a low profile seperator ,various brands - gear wrench #3916D is one such unit. Works great to remove tie rod end from pitman arm.
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post #4 of 18 Old 10-07-2018, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
TigerXXVII
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssm82 View Post
There is a low profile seperator ,various brands - gear wrench #3916D is one such unit. Works great to remove tie rod end from pitman arm.
Have you used these on WJs before? Im worried that it would be too short to fit over the stud of the ball joint.
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post #5 of 18 Old 10-08-2018, 02:59 AM
ssm82
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I have a 99 wj .I used a tool like this to take off the tie rod ends on my drag link . Got it off the pitman arm in about 2 minutes. Cant remember where or which brand i bought but it was made for this.
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post #6 of 18 Old 10-08-2018, 03:08 AM
ssm82
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I saw the gearwrench on amazon. A few reviewers said there is a utube showing its use on a jeep tie rod end. ( it wont take off balljoints on jeep frnt wheels).
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post #7 of 18 Old 10-08-2018, 03:17 AM
paulvon
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I had a similar issue and then I tried this one and it worked great.

The conical puller is fantastic.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-8150-Coni...PEL&ref=plSrch

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post #8 of 18 Old 10-08-2018, 08:44 AM
Jeeples
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Heat.

One of the small Propane or MAPP gas torches work great for these. MAPP gas will burn a little hotter, so be careful of what other items are nearby.

I'd concentrate the heat on the exposed threaded portion of the tie rod and maybe put a little heat on the pitman arm itself.

Quench with some PB Blaster and go to town with the BFH again.

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- Some more stuff


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Quote:
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This is easily the worst post, and thread, I have ever seen in 7 years of being on JF.
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post #9 of 18 Old 10-08-2018, 09:21 AM
mikeundi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Heat.

One of the small Propane or MAPP gas torches work great for these. MAPP gas will burn a little hotter, so be careful of what other items are nearby.

I'd concentrate the heat on the exposed threaded portion of the tie rod and maybe put a little heat on the pitman arm itself.

Quench with some PB Blaster and go to town with the BFH again.

I wouldn't recommend heat before using a puller. Heating the steering box could damage the seals. I used a puller and it worked fine.
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post #10 of 18 Old 10-08-2018, 01:08 PM
Jeeples
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeundi View Post
I wouldn't recommend heat before using a puller. Heating the steering box could damage the seals. I used a puller and it worked fine.
That's why you need to concentrate the heat on the stud of the tie rod and not the pitman arm.

I recently replaced the lower seals on the gear box of my wife's '03 WJ, trust me the seals that actually prevent the PS fluid from leaking out of the box are tucked way up inside the gearbox.

There's no way you're going to heat up the pitman arm and sector shaft hot enough to damage that seal with a handheld propane or MAPP gas torch.

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- Some more stuff


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples
This is easily the worst post, and thread, I have ever seen in 7 years of being on JF.
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post #11 of 18 Old 10-08-2018, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
TigerXXVII
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Hey guys, just wanted to update you guys that I finally got it off. Thanks for the advice about the low profile seperator. I picked one up at Harbor Freight for like $15. At first I thought the 3/4inch opening wouldn't fit, but I made it work. Couple of cranks later and it popped out!

For those of you who come across this thread in the future, the exact tool I used to get the tie rod out of the pitman arm is Pittsburgh®️ Automotive- Item#99849.
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post #12 of 18 Old 10-08-2018, 03:56 PM
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Believe it or not, that was the ONLY tool <Pittsburgh Automotive - Item#99849> that helped me successfully remove ball joints out of a 2001 Nissan Xterra.
Beat myself up for hours trying to remove these ball joints.
Bought this tool and they were out in less than 5 minutes.
Good call TigerXXVII.....I'm a believer!

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post #13 of 18 Old 10-08-2018, 04:06 PM
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Glad to hear you got it out!

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- Some more stuff


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples
This is easily the worst post, and thread, I have ever seen in 7 years of being on JF.
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post #14 of 18 Old 10-08-2018, 04:21 PM
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It never happened without pics.
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If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #15 of 18 Old 10-17-2018, 01:27 AM
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I'm laughing WITH you, not at you, sir. I just replaced the entire drag link in my 99 WJ, also on 7 October. Being in New England, there was no way i was going to try to unscrew those rusty, slag-infested ends out of similar sleeves of similar condition. Just as you did, I pounded away at that link (and my thumb/index knuckles) with a 3 pound sledge and a pickle fork separator. Just as you did, I gouged and began spreading my pickle fork. Had to hammer the fork back into form a few times. And I had blasted everything a couple days prior with PB Blast.

Several rests were had, as my arms eventually tired. Three pounds doesnt sound like much, until its three pounds of metal wailing away at a circle an inch wide, pounding hard as you can, and you miss. Then 3 pounds is a lot.

Finally, I used that tuning fork from the angle coming from my left foot as seated in the car. In other words, facing the wheelwell, I came in from high and to the rightop as possible.

The clattering of metal against the paved driveway never sounded so good. The next sound heard was that 3 pound hammer dropping to the ground and the "puh-cchhhaaaahh" of a tasty beverage being opened.

I'd had death wobble since the IRO/Kolak 2 inch lift was installed, but the wobble only happened at highway speeds, and only after hitting bumps. When under the Jeep, I could pivot the drag link just with my hands and little force.

After changing the drag link, my wobble issues were gone.

This past Sunday I went ahead and installed an all new tie rod assembly. Sleeves and ends, all. I have the lower control arms, and they go in next.

This thing is handling almost like new now
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