Why not switch to a JKU? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 22 Old 11-17-2019, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
fhunziker
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Why not switch to a JKU?

Iím at a point where I need to decide whether to invest more heavily in my Ď01 WJ which currently has an OME HD lift and 3.73 gears, or find a more suitable platform like a 2012 or newer JKU Rubicon that has lockers, D44 axles, 4.10 gears, etc.

What arguments are there for keeping and further investing in the WJ?

[Edit] I should probably mention the Jeep is used as a DD and occasional light-medium off-road, usually loaded with gear and dogs. No rock crawling.


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post #2 of 22 Old 11-17-2019, 11:50 AM
edhammond71
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It's paid for?

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post #3 of 22 Old 11-17-2019, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
fhunziker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edhammond71 View Post
It's paid for?

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Thatís the only thing I can think of so far. A used 2014 JKU Rubicon will run me $30k while any WJ upgrades would run probably $10k at most.


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post #4 of 22 Old 11-17-2019, 12:04 PM
edhammond71
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Right. JKU prices are out of hand.

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post #5 of 22 Old 11-17-2019, 01:06 PM
Reech
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Price would be a big factor for myself if making that decision. Not only is the WJ paid for, but how upset would you be if you brushed up against a tree in your WJ on a mild off road trip? Prob no big deal. Now imagine doing that with a $30K JKU. Hurts a bit more in my opinion. I, personally, figure on keeping my WJ for years to come for a number of reasons. First and foremost, its paid for. Replacement parts are readily available and affordable. It's pretty easy to diagnose and work on. Plus it looks cooler than a JKU in my personal opinion. :P
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post #6 of 22 Old 11-17-2019, 08:46 PM
GeoffPeterson
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I had this same thought recently. The WJ I had was higher miles (178K) and had a few things that needed fixing. I was thinking rather than spending money fixing everything then doing a lift I might be better off buying a JK. Then I looked at what they are selling for and quickly changed my mind. I found a lower miles WJ in perfect condition for a fraction of what a JK would cost.

I guess I would ask how much and how hard do you wheel? What size tires are you looking at and how much lift?
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post #7 of 22 Old 11-17-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
fhunziker
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Why not switch to a JKU?

Itís not so much the lift, I have 32s on the WJ and Iím pretty happy with them. Itís the axles and the apparent silliness of putting ARB lockers and stronger axles into a Dana 35 and 30. Getting a Dana 44 up front on a WJ is complex and expensive so I have to wonder if it isnít smarter to just get a JKUR. About 1/2 the posts I read say the 35 and 30 are crap, even with the Super upgrade kits and just 32s. The other half 1/2 of posts say theyíll do OK for my kind of wheeling.


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post #8 of 22 Old 11-17-2019, 11:51 PM
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"I should probably mention the Jeep is used as a DD and occasional light-medium off-road, usually loaded with gear and dogs. No rock crawling."

If this is true, there is no "need" for 44s, lockers and gears.
Now wanting a new ride is another thing altogether!

All that wish list could be had for less then 10k.
New UD44s for around 5 grand...... With electric lockers , 4:10s
Various other NEW parts to get it to work QUITE WELL... 15 hundred
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post #9 of 22 Old 11-18-2019, 07:49 AM
LuthWJ77
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I'm thinking about the new JL with the diesel. Stupid money for these things but heck you only live once. The issue for me dumping too much money in the WJ is that it just won't ever be as reliable as a newer vehicle. When I'm wheeling it's in places with no cell service and could be miles from another human. Makes me nervous sometimes. On the other hand, wheeling in a brand new vehicle that you know will go anywhere because you spent $50k is kind of boring since no real challenge. I'm proud as crap when my little $4k WJ can follow Rubicons around all day. Anyway I understand the dilemma and I think there's good arguments for both but if money is not an object I'd probably recommend the newer vehicle that you know will hold it's value for a while rather than dump money into one that's pretty much 100% depreciated and you won't get it back likely.
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post #10 of 22 Old 11-18-2019, 10:39 AM
Double E
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Get both.
Keep the WJ till it turns to dust. Keep the JL for the on-road stuff till the WJ is no longer is a viable/reliable option.
As mentioned ...it is done depreciating for the most part, it would not sell for a lot and it is already familiar to you.
Insurance for both is probably not that bad and if there is property tax on it, it cannot be a lot.
If you find the JL is a more preferred platform over time, you have options. If the WJ begins to fail, you still have an option.

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post #11 of 22 Old 11-18-2019, 03:52 PM
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Keep the WJ, JK/JL/Whatever are a Fiat products which are absolute garbage. If you want a better platform get a LJ. Hands down the best Jeep ever made IMHO.

I know the JK's aren't fully Fiat but they still have their hand in more than I would want to deal with. I'm a die hard jeep fan and when the time came to get the wife a new car (she had a KJ and wanted a JK) we passed and got a GX460.

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post #12 of 22 Old 11-18-2019, 04:09 PM
wildbill23c
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For a DD I'd rather keep the WJ, I would think your WJ would have a much better highway ride than a Wrangler. I'm sure your WJ is paid for, I bet if you switched to a Wrangler you'd end up with a vehicle payment I'd avoid that LOL. Throw some lockers in the WJ and with your current setup you should be good for several more years, and keep saving money maybe for a Wrangler down the road sometime but I think the WJ would get a few upgrades if it were me. I like the older Grand Cherokees, and if I were upgrading I'd upgrade from my 98 ZJ to a WK LOL.
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post #13 of 22 Old 11-18-2019, 04:14 PM
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You said that you weren't doing any hard core wheeling, so, I would recommend keeping the WJ. The D35 is a good axle and has a number of posi's available for it and the same for the D30. All at a reasonable cost and installation is not that hard, or you can pay someone to install them for you. At 32" tires a 3-4" lift is great. At 3 you can keep the stock control arms. At 4" go for a long arm lift, longer shocks, adj track bar etc to keep the ride and handling. Check with Kolak to see what he can put together for you. I have around 6000+ in parts (see list in signature below) into my WJ and am confident in its performance. Did all the work with a friend in his garage. Just spent another 500 on a set of 5 ProComp Extreme alloy wheels. Love the look and the Jeep feels more stable when cornering etc.

If your WJ is solid, go for the improvements and keep it.
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post #14 of 22 Old 11-18-2019, 05:22 PM
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I have both, a fairly built 2015 JKUR that I starting taking out for heavy rock crawling right away, and a 2004 Columbia Ed HO that I DD, but want to lift, and use for overlanding in the winter. My JK never has the doors (I have soft doors for travelling and only if it’s raining and I have to go somewhere, IE a wheeling trip) and the top is only up again if it’s raining. It’s garage kept and doesn’t see the winter. In the warmer months it’s driven more, and the WJ is strictly for to and from work. In the winter though I get back into wanting to do up the WJ, and I do love it, it’s a machine in the winter.

Here is what I would contribute:

- doors off, top down, nothing compares.
- my lifted JKUR on 37s, and with 12 skids/etc, and metal bumpers/sliders/winch is still my eco fuel economy vehicle compared to the 4.7 HO.
- neither has given me virtually ANY issues, other than what I break offroading, which is expected. Mind you, I got the WJ from a little old lady that hardly drove with 62k KM.
- I have bought a dirt cheap basket case 08 JKUR, my buddy took the 4:1, I am taking the rubi axles for a possible swap. We are selling the rest to someone looking to build one tons and an atlas, and nearly coming away for free. You can get your larger and locking axles that way if you are crafty. Keep in mind there is a lot more maintenance needed for the axles, typically shafts, steering etc, plus the fabbing to make work with whatever lift you will use. Still has costs.
- if you only want to stay with 32s, why not look to swapping your axles with a cheap set of vari-lock axles (D30/D44a). I picked up an overland pair of these for $150, 3.73s and vari-locks. They do very well for offroading, and are between lockers and LSDs, as with LSDs they take 3-4 revolutions to lock/apply braking, where the vari-locks lock up after typically one revolution. I have a buddy that wheels 32s and this axles and they work very well. I would personally do some cheap trussing on them if wheeling at all.
- IF you go vari-locks, from what I have read you cannot plan to go bigger for tires, as I heard they are good up to 32s, but even moving to 33s starts to break carriers quickly.
- You can even get near dead WJ’s with the axles anywhere, strip out some key/common failing components, and scrap the vehicle for not much.

Given you are content with 32s, my vote is to find a set of vari-lock axles, look to maybe getting axles trussed, PS dif covers, and you’d be good to go. That should be fairly cheap, and maybe save from there for the day that it craps out, and look to move to a JK at that time. WJs are beasts, if you still like it, keep it!
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post #15 of 22 Old 11-18-2019, 07:26 PM
CJREX
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I bought a brand new Wrangler Big Bear in 2017.


After about a year and a half I came to the conclusion that wanting a Wrangler was more pleasant than having a Wrangler.


I now have a 2004 GC Overland and am more happy with it than I ever was with the Wrangler.


Guess I'm just not a Wrangler person after all.



So my vote is for the GC.
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