Wheel bearing assembly removal - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-20-2020, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
NWDC
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Wheel bearing assembly removal

Anyone have tips on getting the wheel bearing assembly off the knuckle?

I was able to remove all 3 bolts and loosen the shaft nut with no problems but the face of the assembly seems to be fused pretty tight to the knuckle...

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post #2 of 14 Old 05-20-2020, 10:40 PM
rjbruzan
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Hit it with a BIG hammer. Many times! Then hit it more.
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post #3 of 14 Old 05-20-2020, 11:54 PM
GmanWJ
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Saw a trick one time where you get an old long sacrificial bolt and screw it into one side of the hub but not all the way, let it hang way out there, then turn the steering wheel and the bolt contacts the axle and pops the hub off. Have not tried it myself, mine came right off.
Otherwise ... PB blaster and a hammer. Maybe even a cold chisel if you are brave.
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ok mostly just repairs, but we are closing in on a lift
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post #4 of 14 Old 05-21-2020, 12:17 AM
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Thread the lower 2 bolts back in about halfway, throw a deepwell 1/2in socket (or use a regular 1/2in socket with a short extension bar) on the head of one of the bolts, start the engine and turn the wheel slightly to the side so the socket makes contact with the "C" of the axle.

If you've got someone to help, it's easier.

Keep turning just a hair so you're using the steering to break the bearing loose.

If you have to, swap the socket to the other lower bolt and turn the wheel the other way.

Just don't get wild and crank the wheel over, or you'll screw things up.

Once you've got the bearing assy out, clean all the mating surfaces really good and apply anti-seize before you put the new one in. It'll save some heartache next time you've got to pull the wheel bearing.
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post #5 of 14 Old 05-22-2020, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GmanWJ View Post
Saw a trick one time where you get an old long sacrificial bolt and screw it into one side of the hub but not all the way, let it hang way out there, then turn the steering wheel and the bolt contacts the axle and pops the hub off. Have not tried it myself, mine came right off.
Otherwise ... PB blaster and a hammer. Maybe even a cold chisel if you are brave.
I actually used that trick once on my XJ after pounding that bastard with a sludge hammer over and over did absolutely nothing. It was like it was fused. Using the power steering and an extension wedged against the frame, it popped right off. Nothing beats hydraulic power. The only thing is it bent my control arm a bit, nothing major. Just need to be careful where you're pressing that bolt against.

Maybe another option. Some guy on the internet sells what he calls the hub buster.
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post #6 of 14 Old 05-22-2020, 02:37 AM
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That hydraulic trick sounds awesome! I gotta try it someday...


If you dont wanna try to hydraulic it out, just get a couple extra long bolts to go in place of your factory hub bolts, leave them loose, and beat them on the head with a big hammer, or air hammer. I have seen many people try to beat the hub flange without any luck. You gotta get your force directed at those hub bolt holes to do any good, plus it helps alot if you were planning on keeping the hub and bearing assembly. Doing it this way wont hurt the bearing. I still have several sets of different length and diameter bolts I kept just for this purpose in my rollaway box at home.
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post #7 of 14 Old 05-22-2020, 08:31 AM
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If your bearing isn't completely separated a slide hammer should help. can also leave PB blaster or acetone & ATF soaking overnight. Can also try deadblow hammer to hit the edges of the flange - not the face of it toward or away from the vehicle, but the rim of the flange itself.
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post #8 of 14 Old 05-22-2020, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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I ended up getting it off but it was a PITA. I used a combination of hammer to the flange, chisel, punch where I could, and pb blaster but it took at least an hour of pounding. I had a new hub bearing assy. to install so I wasn't worried about damaging the hub flange. I used anti seize on the mating surfaces when I installed the new one, so it hopefully won't be so bad pulling it off next time. I spent ~80% of the time on removal and probably 20% on install.

Does anyone know the exact bolt size/dimensions for those 3 hub bolts to the steering knuckle? I think it would be helpful if I had some for next time so that I could just slide those in and tap them to knock the hub loose.
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post #9 of 14 Old 05-22-2020, 03:09 PM
coldspit47
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Per FCA brake diagram, they're M12x1.75x65.00, hex flange head.
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post #10 of 14 Old 05-22-2020, 06:40 PM
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A big hammer usually works when you work your way around the lip. Do yourself a favor for next time and slather the knuckle with anti-seize before putting the hub back in.
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post #11 of 14 Old 05-22-2020, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWDC View Post
Does anyone know the exact bolt size/dimensions for those 3 hub bolts to the steering knuckle? I think it would be helpful if I had some for next time so that I could just slide those in and tap them to knock the hub loose.
Quadratec has replacements, just pick which price you want to pay.


https://www.quadratec.com/categories...s_nuts_washers

I'm in the habit that when I buy replacement wheel bearings, I buy new bolts to go with them.
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post #12 of 14 Old 05-23-2020, 10:48 AM
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I used a bottle jack behind the hub.
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post #13 of 14 Old 05-24-2020, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattimus_LV View Post
Quadratec has replacements, just pick which price you want to pay.


https://www.quadratec.com/categories...s_nuts_washers

I'm in the habit that when I buy replacement wheel bearings, I buy new bolts to go with them.

Good plan, then hold onto the old ones for the next wheel bearing removal.
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post #14 of 14 Old 05-26-2020, 06:01 PM
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remove the big nut in the middle of the spindle. then try tapping a chisel around the spilt.

A 89 yj with a 4.0 aw4 sye out of an 92xj. Now the hard part is done time to get it up in the air just a bit. Working on 8.8 with 3.73 and lsd for the rear. and new D30 hp with 3.73 .
For those who have not figured this out I'm old school but can handle the new too.
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