What should I change while the engines out? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-19-2018, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
igotanewjeep
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Wj What should I change while the engines out?

So my 2002 4.7 WJ limited has finally had enough of my shenanigans and is not running so hot. She burns oil, won't rev above 3k RPMs regardless of what gear its in, lots of clanking and hard shifting coming from the transmission. You know the usual stuff you'd expect from a lifted 16 year old jeep with 210k miles on the clock.

Anyway, I was able to pick up another 2002 4.7 limited that has 108k on the clock that was in a minor front end accident for under $1500. So the question is, what all should I change on the new engine while I have it out? I am already planning on doing the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. I'm contemplating doing the timing set while its out. There is a some start up rattle with the new engine that I would like to fix before putting it in my WJ if someone can point me in the right direction. Any lastly, is there anything I can do to prevent a dropped valve seat while I have it out and apart?

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post #2 of 15 Old 08-19-2018, 10:24 PM
Mattyjm
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Change the engine to a 4.0L i6, and the transmission to a 42RE, then you won't have these problems.

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post #3 of 15 Old 08-19-2018, 10:50 PM
elJeepo_00WJ
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Originally Posted by Mattyjm View Post
Change the engine to a 4.0L i6, and the transmission to a 42RE, then you won't have these problems.


Iíll take an 8 cyl with issues over a 6 cyl anyday!
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why is my jeep always breaking???
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-20-2018, 06:03 AM
Dacaur
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me too....

I would say do the timing set, or at least change the guides.
From what I have read, the dropped valve seat normally comes from sludge in the heads. Run seafoam in the oil all the time is the best defense IMO....
Other than that I wouldn't tear into the engine.

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Past jeeps: 03WJ, 99WJ, 99XJ, 92YJ, 92XJ, 85XJ.
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-20-2018, 06:41 AM
HarryH3
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Preventing valve seat drop requires pulling the heads and taking them to a machine shop. They will remove the existing seats and replace them with the proper size for the recess in the head. Those things need to be in there TIGHT. I've read that Mopar didn't use quite enough "interference" in the interference fit. The seats need to be a certain amount larger than the recess. It's not much, but it's there and it's what holds the seats in the head. To install them, the heads are heated in an oven, to expand the recesses. The seats are cooled in a liquid nitrogen bath to shrink them, then quickly installed and seated firmly in the recess. Once they're both at the same temp, they aren't coming out easily. It won't be cheap, but those heads should last forever.

Here's a quick video of the process:
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-20-2018, 08:54 AM
Soem0
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If you are going that far i would do the timing and the oil pump. Have the heads refreshed with the valve seats a a seals. New valve cover gaskets and all new intake ones as well.
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-20-2018, 09:32 AM
HarryH3
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It's fairly easy to replace the main and rod bearings while the engine is on a stand anyway. Timing chain tensioners should definitely be replaced. What about the hydraulic lifters/cam followers? Be careful that you don't get caught up in the "Might as well" syndrome and end up with a total cost that exceeds what you would have paid for a rebuilt engine to begin with. Just the head work can set you back around $500.

Here's a site that follows the trails and tribulations of a friend that decided to build his '72 K5 Blazer into a trail beast that can tackle anything: https://drivetribe.com/t/CO040Wp-Sa6...QUaPtKHGxcnJwQ Yeah, it's spiraled WAY out of control.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-20-2018, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
igotanewjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryH3 View Post
Preventing valve seat drop requires pulling the heads and taking them to a machine shop. They will remove the existing seats and replace them with the proper size for the recess in the head. Those things need to be in there TIGHT. I've read that Mopar didn't use quite enough "interference" in the interference fit. The seats need to be a certain amount larger than the recess. It's not much, but it's there and it's what holds the seats in the head. To install them, the heads are heated in an oven, to expand the recesses. The seats are cooled in a liquid nitrogen bath to shrink them, then quickly installed and seated firmly in the recess. Once they're both at the same temp, they aren't coming out easily. It won't be cheap, but those heads should last forever.

Here's a quick video of the process:
I like the sound of them lasting for ever but I'll have to think about costs for a little bit. Luckily for me I don't need the WJ to be operational as a daily until I feel I'm done making it perfect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by elJeepo_00WJ View Post
Iíll take an 8 cyl with issues over a 6 cyl anyday!
agreed , I have have 2 4.0 already but their both in XJ's, the WJ is too heavy IMO for the 4.0.
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-20-2018, 06:49 PM
elJeepo_00WJ
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Originally Posted by igotanewjeep View Post
I like the sound of them lasting for ever but I'll have to think about costs for a little bit. Luckily for me I don't need the WJ to be operational as a daily until I feel I'm done making it perfect.







agreed , I have have 2 4.0 already but their both in XJ's, the WJ is too heavy IMO for the 4.0.


I agree. XJ powered by an I6 makes sense to me, WJ powered by I6 just seems nuetered. The 8cyl gives it some get up and go. Much of the issues are due to a lack of maintenence and overheating anyways. Granted there are always some bad apples, but iíd say they arenít too bad overall.

why is my jeep always breaking???
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-20-2018, 07:54 PM
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4.7 in my Ram went 280k without any problems other than burning a little oil. Still ran great when I sold it.


But it's not just motor stuff you want to replace while it's out, but stuff that's easier in the engine bay with the motor out. I'd also replace the rear main seal and rear freeze plug if that motor has one.

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post #11 of 15 Old 08-20-2018, 10:14 PM
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I would do the...
Valve seats - have them pinned
The oil drain enlarged while heads are out (plus as mentioned, regularly run some Seafoam in it)
Oil Pump
The exhaust manifolds (most notably the passenger side)
The Timing chain and guides replaced and gasket
Valve Cover gaskets
Full tune-up

And to go above and beyond....
Thermostat
Y-Pipe
Inspect the hydro setup for PS and Fan
Clean TB and IAC valve (or replace)
Any sensors.....go with MOPAR!!!
Clean engine block thoroughly and paint some pieces such as valve covers....lol
Clean up and rewrap wiring harness

I'm missing some. But I'm a firm believer in being through and also getting other things done while in doing something due to saving the time to go back in again. If that makes sense...lol

It's not the Destination so much as the Journey!! - Cpt. Jack Sparrow

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post #12 of 15 Old 08-20-2018, 10:50 PM
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Should have just gotten a crate motor and been done with it , your going to spend the same to freshen the used motor any how.
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post #13 of 15 Old 08-21-2018, 06:34 AM
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re: valve seats, I wouldn't touch them at this point. If one drops, then do it. Its not going to hurt the engine when a valve seat drops, so whether you do it now, or when (not when, if!) it happens, the cost and the difficulty will be the same.
If what you are going for here is to do things that are easier when the engine is out, there is a lot, but unless you are going to do a full rebuild, there is little point to most of it.....

And of course, then there is always the chance of replacing good parts with defective. Even when buying quality parts, you can get a defective one. Many a person has replaced a part as preventative maintenance, only to end up putting the old part back in when the new part failed..... Yea it sucks to have to pull the engine again if something fails, but you know what sucks even more? Having to pull the engine again because a part you put in "just because" fails.....

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Past jeeps: 03WJ, 99WJ, 99XJ, 92YJ, 92XJ, 85XJ.
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-21-2018, 07:29 AM
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If it were me, I would tear that new motor apart to inspect all components. You probably don't have a clue of what the maintenance history was, and if it's making noise already-not good!
Start up rattle would likely be something to do with the timing components, whether the chain is stretched (not likely at that mileage) or worn out tensioner/guides. Sometimes you won't know until you open it up. A full timing set is pricey and you can inspect the amount of wear once you take off the cover. No more than 1mm of wear on the nylon guides is allowed and no more than 15mm of tensioner piston extension is allowed.

If you have the ability, replace all of the bearings and plastigauge them. "bearings" are so cheap, there is no reason not to replace all of them. Do the thrust washers on the crank (I don't think they ever wear out, but they are cheap). Personally I'd wait on things like valve lash adjusters (lifters). Those can be replaced fairly easily in the future (they can be done with nothing more than valve cover removal.) Once that motor is in the vehicle, you don't want to have to take it out ever again!
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post #15 of 15 Old 08-21-2018, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
igotanewjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostJeepWJ View Post
I would do the...
Valve seats - have them pinned
The oil drain enlarged while heads are out (plus as mentioned, regularly run some Seafoam in it)
Oil Pump
The exhaust manifolds (most notably the passenger side)
The Timing chain and guides replaced and gasket
Valve Cover gaskets
Full tune-up

And to go above and beyond....
Thermostat
Y-Pipe
Inspect the hydro setup for PS and Fan
Clean TB and IAC valve (or replace)
Any sensors.....go with MOPAR!!!
Clean engine block thoroughly and paint some pieces such as valve covers....lol
Clean up and rewrap wiring harness

I'm missing some. But I'm a firm believer in being through and also getting other things done while in doing something due to saving the time to go back in again. If that makes sense...lol
This is part of the reason I got the XJ's is so I can daily them while I be through and make sure everything is right/perfict.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTOWN View Post
Should have just gotten a crate motor and been done with it , your going to spend the same to freshen the used motor any how.
I did think about this before purchasing the "new" WJ but I'm going to take more than just the motor out of the new one. Most of the interior, transmission, front axle, and there's quite a bit of sheet metal that is not straight on the lifted one with a clean title(the one I'll keep in the long run). Sheet metal and paint I can do plus when I'm happy with the way the non-wrecked one is completed, I can sell any left over parts from the donor WJ to lesson the cost of the whole project. At least thats the idea.
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