Trouble finishing the Crankshaft Position Sensor install - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-29-2019, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
LareJoe
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Trouble finishing the Crankshaft Position Sensor install

Hello.
I'd Like to see if i can get a bit of help with the install of my Crankshaft position sensor. I have a 2004 Jeep GC 4.0L. The crankshaft shaft sensor cooked in it. It's the single bolt cylinder type that looks like a long 12mm socket.with the bolt tab on top. Wires coming out at the top like a firecraker. Maybe other years are easier but I had a hell of a time getting this out. I ended up taking apart the dashboard pieces (Very easy and should've attempted this right off) and accessing it through the 2 1/2" diameter hole.

I used a 1/4" driver with a 4" extension , universal joint and a 11 MM socket. I black taped the universal socket to stiffen it up and the bolt came out easy enough. I then used a set of long nosed needle nose pliers to twist and lift the sensor out of the hole. With some fight this came out. I was happy.

Now the issue. For the life of me I can't get the sensor to align with the hole in order to set it into the whole. My needle nose are a bit to wide and when I try to angle it straight theres no room. I tried using a magnetic tipped extension to attach to the bolt hole extended piece (it's metal and the sensor is not) but the magnet is not string enough.

Can anybody offer me a way to do this. I have medium - large fingers and can't get two of them in their effectively to open and do a scissor like pinch... then align the sensor. I was thinking of black taping the sensor where the wires meet the top of the sensor to stiffen it up and use the wire to get the top up straight while i position the base with a flat head screw driver.

If anybody has any other ideas I'd gladly take them. i cant find any video or written advice on this specific portion of the install. I'm so close.


Thanks!

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post #2 of 15 Old 08-29-2019, 06:25 AM
007matman
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I did mine from the bottom.

You need to remove the shift linkage. It's not easy but I got it done.

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post #3 of 15 Old 08-29-2019, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
LareJoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007matman View Post
I did mine from the bottom.

You need to remove the shift linkage. It's not easy but I got it done.

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Hi 007 and thx for the reply.
By linkage you mean the the thin black rod with the almost tie rod arm end, the spring and set back the armature. Were you able to get your arm up there enough to align and press the sensor into place?
I have my car up on ramps as i originally failed trying to connect multiple extensions and u joints during the removal. I had thought about that but it seemed like I would not have enough room to reach up there let alone work it into place. Were you able to finger the sensor in? Also could you comment on how easy the sensor goes into the hole once aligned straight. Is it tight requiring a good press down or does it pretty much fall into place when aligned with minimal pressure? I couldn't gauge that when removing as I felt like I tilted it a bit causing it to be harder to remove. Thanks.
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-29-2019, 08:30 AM
007matman
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This is the YouTube video i watched:

With some revisions by this guy:

There is a seal on the sensor. That's why you struggled to remove it. It shouldn't be as difficult to put it back in.

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post #5 of 15 Old 08-29-2019, 09:06 AM
Mattyjm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LareJoe View Post
Hi 007 and thx for the reply.
By linkage you mean the the thin black rod with the almost tie rod arm end, the spring and set back the armature. Were you able to get your arm up there enough to align and press the sensor into place?
I have my car up on ramps as i originally failed trying to connect multiple extensions and u joints during the removal. I had thought about that but it seemed like I would not have enough room to reach up there let alone work it into place. Were you able to finger the sensor in? Also could you comment on how easy the sensor goes into the hole once aligned straight. Is it tight requiring a good press down or does it pretty much fall into place when aligned with minimal pressure? I couldn't gauge that when removing as I felt like I tilted it a bit causing it to be harder to remove. Thanks.
I replaced mine by removing the airbox and going in from the top of the engine compartment. You have to get your hand between the firewall and the bell housing. It's a tight squeeze for sure. I used the same technique that you did to remove my old one, but couldn't install a new one that way.

There's a certain amount of angle that was a little unexpected the first time I did one. Once you get it aligned properly with the hole, it takes very little pressure to install it.

2002 Laredo. Baloo.
2004 Rocky Mountain Edition. Froggy Bandit. Wife's Daily Driver. PRISTINE! Stock height and may stay that way.....
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-29-2019, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
LareJoe
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Thank Guys. I watched those videos too. they helped guide me to the point I'm at now. None of the videos regardless of approach can help with my final inserting of the sensor because no matter what approach you take there is simply no room to film the reinsertion. Your comments do help. The factory seal on the sensor makes sense and gives me hope for an easy insertion once aligned and partially in place. i'm going to take another stab at installing through the under dash hole I exposed and probably take a look at what Matt was mentioning as it sounds like I may , after removing the air box and getting my arm deep in there, be able to use my fingers to feel and insert the sensor more freely that the hole. I'm at the point now that I was thinking about making the whole bigger with a reciprocal saw and throwing a piece of metal over it after complteting the sensor. I'm so close and it is frustrating.
I'll be back here with results.
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-29-2019, 11:18 AM
007matman
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I was on top of and below the engine the entire time. I might have placed it in place through the top (I don't remember for sure). However, tightening that bolt I definitely went under with about 36" of extensions. The wobble extensions are the best as they give you some extra flex.

I'd be worried about doing more harm than good cutting that out of there.

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post #8 of 15 Old 08-29-2019, 01:56 PM
Uniblurb
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In using an universal joint on a socket for the 4.0 crank sensor bolt I've always placed some electrical tape on the outside of the joint so the socket tip wouldn't fall down so far. I didn't put the tape on tight but just enough where it could still swivel or wobble some.

Sometimes the hole in the trans bell-housing for the crank sensor gets a little oxidation on the aluminum. It doesn't hurt to put a couple twists of emery cloth around your finger to ream the hole out a little. But just try not to drop the emery cloth down in there. And a little dielectric grease or vasoline on the outside of the sensor may help it slide in the hole easier. Good luck.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #9 of 15 Old 08-29-2019, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
LareJoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007matman View Post
I was on top of and below the engine the entire time. I might have placed it in place through the top (I don't remember for sure). However, tightening that bolt I definitely went under with about 36" of extensions. The wobble extensions are the best as they give you some extra flex.

I'd be worried about doing more harm than good cutting that out of there.

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Amazing. So I took off the air box easy enough. Used an oak broom hand to give extra support for the hood. Laid an appox 2 x 4ft slab of 1/2 inch plywood with one end resting just before the windshield wipers and the other end hanging over the front but resting on the top of my small step ladder (3-4ft?) checked that I wasn't leaning on any hoses pipes or anything and reached in and set it in the hole with the bolt tab lined up. This is by far the easiest way to set this sensor. I wished I had reached out earlier as in yesterday morning. Awesome! There is just enough room for my medium to large size hands to do this withe my thumb setting the bottom half of the sensor and my middle finger setting the top straight to the hole.

Couple quick questiona:

1) I tried to see if the fly wheel was set to have a tooth directly under the hole as opposed to a space. I cannot tell. There is something there I just can't gauge if I'm sticking my bent flathead on the solid bottom of a space or the top of a tooth. Wwith the spacer still on the bottom of the sensor do I have better odds at being OK than not? I would think if the bolt lines up I should? Although the slightly oblong shape of the looks to allow for very slight adjustment.

2) Does it matter if I use the mounting bracket? I haven't set the bolt in yet and I wanted to be sure. It makes the final step a bit easier as the bracket likes to move easy due to it needing to flatten the wires underneath it.

Thanks again guys.
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-29-2019, 03:44 PM
Mattyjm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LareJoe View Post
Amazing. So I took off the air box easy enough. Used an oak broom hand to give extra support for the hood. Laid an appox 2 x 4ft slab of 1/2 inch plywood with one end resting just before the windshield wipers and the other end hanging over the front but resting on the top of my small step ladder (3-4ft?) checked that I wasn't leaning on any hoses pipes or anything and reached in and set it in the hole with the bolt tab lined up. This is by far the easiest way to set this sensor. I wished I had reached out earlier as in yesterday morning. Awesome! There is just enough room for my medium to large size hands to do this withe my thumb setting the bottom half of the sensor and my middle finger setting the top straight to the hole.

Couple quick questiona:

1) I tried to see if the fly wheel was set to have a tooth directly under the hole as opposed to a space. I cannot tell. There is something there I just can't gauge if I'm sticking my bent flathead on the solid bottom of a space or the top of a tooth. Wwith the spacer still on the bottom of the sensor do I have better odds at being OK than not? I would think if the bolt lines up I should? Although the slightly oblong shape of the looks to allow for very slight adjustment.

2) Does it matter if I use the mounting bracket? I haven't set the bolt in yet and I wanted to be sure. It makes the final step a bit easier as the bracket likes to move easy due to it needing to flatten the wires underneath it.

Thanks again guys.
I can't think of any mounting bracket at all?? Did you replace the CKS with a whole new one? If so, you must leave the felt attached to the tip of the new CKS, then install and tighten the CKS bolt back into the bell housing. First start up will remove the felt and allow whatever tone ring on the flywheel to communicate with the sensor. That's the ONLY way that I'm aware of to set the height for the new CKS.

2002 Laredo. Baloo.
2004 Rocky Mountain Edition. Froggy Bandit. Wife's Daily Driver. PRISTINE! Stock height and may stay that way.....
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-29-2019, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
LareJoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattyjm View Post
I can't think of any mounting bracket at all?? Did you replace the CKS with a whole new one? If so, you must leave the felt attached to the tip of the new CKS, then install and tighten the CKS bolt back into the bell housing. First start up will remove the felt and allow whatever tone ring on the flywheel to communicate with the sensor. That's the ONLY way that I'm aware of to set the height for the new CKS.
Hey Matt. There was a metal mounting bracket on the one I took out That may have served only to Protect the wire connection where it meets the top of the sensor. It positioned flat over the outside of the mounting hole with it's own hole and had a coverlet type shape that went over the wires.

I did leave the .03 sticker on the bottom to allow space. I'm just going to bolt this in place as is without the bracket since it makes it so much easier. Other than starting up and actually staying running I wonder if I'll see any improvements in smoothness or mileage.
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post #12 of 15 Old 08-30-2019, 06:26 AM
007matman
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I've never heard of that bracket. I don't think I can say if it's required or not. Can you post up a pic? That may help.

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post #13 of 15 Old 08-30-2019, 08:43 AM
Mattyjm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LareJoe View Post
Hey Matt. There was a metal mounting bracket on the one I took out That may have served only to Protect the wire connection where it meets the top of the sensor. It positioned flat over the outside of the mounting hole with it's own hole and had a coverlet type shape that went over the wires.

I did leave the .03 sticker on the bottom to allow space. I'm just going to bolt this in place as is without the bracket since it makes it so much easier. Other than starting up and actually staying running I wonder if I'll see any improvements in smoothness or mileage.
Now I remember There was a little protective shield thing on my 2002 CKS. It fell into the bottomless parts abyss that seems to be under my WJ at any given time. I couldn't find it, so I didn't put it back on. I am still missing a deep well 15mm socket that literally disappeared or is still trapped somewhere in my WJ.

I'm glad you were able to get this done and I hope your Dub gets up and running smooth for you.

2002 Laredo. Baloo.
2004 Rocky Mountain Edition. Froggy Bandit. Wife's Daily Driver. PRISTINE! Stock height and may stay that way.....
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-30-2019, 11:18 AM
007matman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattyjm View Post
Now I remember There was a little protective shield thing on my 2002 CKS. It fell into the bottomless parts abyss that seems to be under my WJ at any given time. I couldn't find it, so I didn't put it back on. I am still missing a deep well 15mm socket that literally disappeared or is still trapped somewhere in my WJ.



I'm glad you were able to get this done and I hope your Dub gets up and running smooth for you.
I don't remember seeing that on my '02.. weird. Maybe I just overlooked it.

I've owned mine since '04 so I'm pretty sure it wasn't swapped out previous.

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post #15 of 15 Old 08-30-2019, 12:36 PM
frankjc
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I reached in through the hole under the dash with an extension and a u joint to get the bolt out. I can't imagine it being any easier than that. I had to reach in behind the engine to get mine to line up. I could not get the bolt started without the swivel. Mine didn't have the bracket on the one I took out, pretty sure it was not original. Don't drop the bolt like I did.
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