Towing - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 09-23-2021, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
zephyr424
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Towing

Just curious if anyone has experience towing a tandem axle trailer with the 7 way connector versus a separate electronic brake system controller? Does a separate system offer better braking characteristics than factory? Thanks

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post #2 of 20 Old 09-23-2021, 08:39 PM
007matman
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Wj's didn't have an option for an integrated brake controller. If you're towing a trailer with brakes you'll want to install an aftermarket one.

Teknosha P3 is one of the best.

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post #3 of 20 Old 09-23-2021, 08:58 PM
GmanWJ
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I tow a single axle trailer. I use a brake controller wired through the factory connector. Works great, no reason to bypass the factory 7-pin, any wire will do the job so use what is there. Tap into the loose light blue wire under the dash, it is there just for this purpose.
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post #4 of 20 Old 09-24-2021, 06:01 AM
Double E
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I tow a heavy azz boat using the 7 to 4 converter. That trailer uses surge brakes so no need for a separate controller.
I also tow a race car on a super heavy trailer loaded with tools and equipment. It has electric brakes and I had to add the Tekonsha unit referenced above. It is indeed, a great piece of equipment.

What you need is first, to understand what the trailer brake system has. Because you have a 7-pin harness on the trailer side, that already indicates a brake controller may be useful but that's not 100% for certain. It might still have surge brakes, rendering the controller useless.

In either case, hydraulic with electrical assist type or electric/magnetic controlled type, the Teknosha unit can be set for either type and has adjustability and controls for how much braking force is applied to the trailer.

The reference to the blue wire in the driver's side footwell is correct for certain years of production. WJ jeeps used to have that info and where to find the wire but if you don't have it, the Tekonsha install instructions will walk you through what to do.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310...-dash-3128521/
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310...er-wj-1416393/

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post #5 of 20 Old 09-24-2021, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double E View Post
I also tow a race car on a super heavy trailer loaded with tools and equipment.
Want to see it!
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post #6 of 20 Old 09-24-2021, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
zephyr424
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The trailer isn't purchased yet. Just doing some reconnaissance. Thanks guys. I appreciate the information.
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post #7 of 20 Old 09-24-2021, 11:37 AM
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How big is this trailer? My overland felt very unstable pulling a 4000 lb travel trailer.
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post #8 of 20 Old 09-24-2021, 01:01 PM
007matman
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Originally Posted by zephyr424 View Post
The trailer isn't purchased yet. Just doing some reconnaissance. Thanks guys. I appreciate the information.
The WJ isn't a great tow vehicle.

If you're thinking of towing anywhere near 60% of max capacity, I'd re-think it.

We used to pull a 12' pop-up (2700lbs w/ the 4.0 equipped with a 5000lb tow package) with ours until I broke a piston skirt. Others have had bad experiences with the V8 too.

The WJ just has too short of a wheelbase to handle larger trailers.

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post #9 of 20 Old 09-24-2021, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, that's what I heard. I don't plan on pulling anything heavy. Actually wanted to sell my single axle motorcycle trailer and buy a tandem. Couple of reasons why. First, I've seen video and heard about disasters occuring when a tire blows on a single axle and the trailer starts fishtailing. It seems most of the problems happened because the tires were deficient and they were speeding, or they overloaded the trailer or simply put too much weight in the rear of the trailer. But with a tandem axle trailer, it's usually not a problem. It's usually not a problem with a single axle either, but you have to be more careful because your vehicle can flip as well. I'd use some kind of tpms system on the trailer tires if mine weren't so new.
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post #10 of 20 Old 09-24-2021, 06:47 PM
007matman
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Yeah, that's what I heard. I don't plan on pulling anything heavy. Actually wanted to sell my single axle motorcycle trailer and buy a tandem. Couple of reasons why. First, I've seen video and heard about disasters occuring when a tire blows on a single axle and the trailer starts fishtailing. It seems most of the problems happened because the tires were deficient and they were speeding, or they overloaded the trailer or simply put too much weight in the rear of the trailer. But with a tandem axle trailer, it's usually not a problem. It's usually not a problem with a single axle either, but you have to be more careful because your vehicle can flip as well. I'd use some kind of tpms system on the trailer tires if mine weren't so new.
Goodyear Endurance trailer tires are the best.. all the RV guys swear by them. they are the best trailer tires made.

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post #11 of 20 Old 09-25-2021, 11:26 AM
Trotineta
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I do have a 2008 diesel and I did/do tow a large trailer. Aftermarket brake controller and Hensley hitch. Drove from Buffalo to OBX in December 2019. It is slow uphill (40/45mph). I know it is not the best solution but it will work till I will get a truck. I will drive slower( vacation time) and keep distance. It is ok on fuel too.
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post #12 of 20 Old 09-25-2021, 05:29 PM
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Be VERY careful pulling trailers with these WJ's. I would suggest a equalizer hitch for anything over a little single axle flatdeck/trash hauler. The coil springs in the back give these Jeeps a little sway anyway, and a trailer compounds this. I have been in a WJ that couldnt pull another WJ on a dual axle car hauling trailer on the highway. It simply couldnt keep the trailer from swaying...

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post #13 of 20 Old 09-25-2021, 06:25 PM
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Definitely want to go with load leveler shocks and beefier sway bar in the rear end.

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post #14 of 20 Old 09-25-2021, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bigrigr View Post
Be VERY careful pulling trailers with these WJ's. I would suggest a equalizer hitch for anything over a little single axle flatdeck/trash hauler. The coil springs in the back give these Jeeps a little sway anyway, and a trailer compounds this. I have been in a WJ that couldnt pull another WJ on a dual axle car hauling trailer on the highway. It simply couldnt keep the trailer from swaying...
That's interesting. When I was living in Colorado Springs I personally pulled my 1968 GTO convertible 20 miles home on a tandem axle trailer after getting the motor stroked from a 400 to a 468 at a local racing shop. It was the 4.0l. The going was slow, but it pulled fine on the side streets and highway. Wouldn't want to do that on a regular basis, however.
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post #15 of 20 Old 09-28-2021, 05:31 PM
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You will be safer with a separate brake controller on the dash. Its wire to the electric brakes on the trailer can still go thru the 7 pin connector.
If you get the trailer a little out of balance, meaning less than 10% of trailer weight on the ball hitch, then it can start to sway. With a short tow vehicle like a Jeep, that's double trouble. the best way to stop the sway, BEFORE you begin to slow down, is to activate the trailer's brakes hard while still on the gas. that will get the trailer back into line, and only then can you begin to slow down GENTLY and fix the balance problem.
We had a bad accident in Interstate 5, straight and level at noon, doing about 60mph, towing a 19' travel trailer with a V8 Jeep GC. We didn't realize the trailer was out of balance. No one makes a proper scale for measuring tongue weight.
We swayed twice, then did a 180 right on the freeway, then went off the side toward a farmer's field. But the trailer tires caught the dirt berm while sliding. that then rolled us over and we wind up on the passenger side.
By the grace of God no one was hurt, we all got out, THEN the engine caught fire and burned everything to the ground.
BIG INSURANCE BILL AFTER THAT.
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