Ticking engine compartment - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 04-26-2021, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
ames
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Ticking engine compartment

A few days ago my 99GC 4.0 started making a noise that reminded me of putting playing cards in bicycle spokes; starts slow and increases as your speed increases.

Sound is from the engine compartment. It’s a ticking / consistent flutter.

Brought it to the garage this morning, I received this diagnostic note back:

“Verified ticking noise. Found noise to be coming from upper back part of engine. Verified oil in vehicle is in operating range. Verified using scan tool oil pressure fluctuates from idle at 36psi to 58 psi at 2000rpm. Will need at minimum removed valve cover to visually inspect rocker, lifter and valve seat. Or quote motor”

Sent this to my parents.my dad who is a mechanic (but not of Jeep’s. He’s old school, classic cars, industrial heavy duty equipment and even snowmobiles). He suggested I get an oil additive for sticky lifters which will probably be about $10. Try that before dropping $2k+ plus on an investigative search.

Have you encountered this, or similar before?

I’m planning to pick Jeep up tomorrow and get a bottle of this additive to try out. I’ll be at work all day. Today was stressful; I freaked out when I read “or quote motor”.

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post #2 of 12 Old 04-27-2021, 03:54 AM
Waterluvr
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Try a quart of Rislone, it's an amazing product for noisy lifters and valves and will clean up the oil pump intake screen.

I'd get a mechanics stethoscope on the cam sensor/synchronizer, they get really noisy with age and often mistaken for sticky lifters.
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post #3 of 12 Old 04-27-2021, 05:00 PM
Bigrigr
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Valve cover really isnt all that hard to get off, I would say go that far, and see if anything obvious shows up early. Then if you dont find anything, add the Rislone, or Marvel mystery oil and see if you can help it that way. My concern here is the fluctuating oil pressure. Like a plugged up oil pump screen might do...and it could also starve the lifters for oil and make them clatter....

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post #4 of 12 Old 04-27-2021, 09:03 PM
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$2k for an "investigative search"? you could rebuild the motor for half that, including the machine work. (rings, bearings, seals and gaskets, cylinder hone & valve seat facing) with you doing the wrench work. your mechanic isn't from somalia by chance, is he?



for a complete rebuild master kit, with new pistons, lifters, timing chain, oil pump and ignition timing module, you're under 600 bucks. example: https://www.enginepartsonly.com/1999...kit-ek1123m-1/



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post #5 of 12 Old 04-27-2021, 10:04 PM
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" Verified using scan tool oil pressure fluctuates from idle at 36psi to 58 psi at 2000rpm."

A scanner is NOT the preferred method for checking oil pressure.
A mechanical gauge is preferred.
I would also want to see pressure PSI at idle.

And I agree add a bottle of RISOLONE.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-28-2021, 05:51 AM
tjdhudson17890
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The 4.0 is known for lifter noise and being that oil no longer has zinc in it doesn't help. My 4.0 had a ticking noise but I changed the oil with Rotella T4 10w30 diesel oil which has zinc in it and a Mopar oil filter and the noise went away. This may not work for you but worth a shot. The oil pressure is in spec and should rise with rpm but I cant say for sure its good with out seeing how its fluctuating and you really need to do the reading with a gauge.
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post #7 of 12 Old 05-03-2021, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
ames
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Thanks. Took a few days, my dad suggested an additive for sticky lifters. I’ve never heard of that and I stopped at an auto parts store the clerk didn’t know either. I ended up finding Rislone that says “noisy lifters & valves” on the front” so I bought 2 bottles. I put one in immediately then waited a couple days as there was no change.

My dad suggested an oil change and have them add the Rislone to replace a quart of oil (or whatever the measurement is). I did that and it has improved some but is still there. The noise is there upon starting and at lower speeds then disappears when on the highway. Does this take a while for the noise to really subside? I’ve only driven it about 40 miles since the oil change.

Could it take a while to be effective?

I thought about taking it to another place to see what they find; I’ve had this other garage do a few things for me and they were spot on/trustworthy/didn’t recommend things that seemed ridiculously overpriced.
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post #8 of 12 Old 05-04-2021, 05:56 AM
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Rislone replaces one quart of oil at change out intervals, you'll need to put a few K on it to see improvement.
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post #9 of 12 Old 05-04-2021, 11:15 AM
underscore
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Does the WJ have the same oil pressure sensor as the XJ? I recall those are known for having issues so fluctuating pressure could just be a flakey sensor. For $2k just to diagnose it I'd just run it til something breaks and then rebuild the motor.

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post #10 of 12 Old 05-04-2021, 04:37 PM
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Don't mention mileage, but over 200k in the 97-newer 4.0's are suspect to cracking piston skirts.
Seen many in TJ's XJ's and what killed my WJ at 200k before I got it, and left led the previous owner to abandon it at the shop...
Engine I put in had 191k miles at 200k now, its got a little piston slap in it.
Chrysler changed to a lighter weight piston from the Renix/HO years, that are about twice as thick, so they just slap forever in a worn cylinder.
Hate to say it, but typically no mechanic in a can going to fix it,.
Just be listening for it to get worse, and plan on an overhaul.

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post #11 of 12 Old 05-04-2021, 06:21 PM
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A WJ owner I met said his 4.0 sounded like a 12 valve diesel when the piston skirt failed. And those 12 valve cummins are LOUD.

2001 WJ, 4.0, 242TC, tow, Akebonos, 96K, new fender and fuel skid
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post #12 of 12 Old 05-07-2021, 02:48 PM
anotherheep
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I've started getting ticking in the middle top of the engine myself. I can pull the oil cap off and see the rocker arm going in synch with the noise. I just did some research on this yesterday and sounds like the rocker arm fulcrums are known for going bad on high millage 4.0l even with regular oil changes. You can pull the valve cover and run the engine with different modes of keeping the oil from being thrown around everywhere and watch/feel if a rocker is causing the problem. From what I've read, if one is going bad, you should just plan on doing all new rockers, fulcrums and pushrod as the rest will probably be going bad also. I'm pretty confident this is what's going on with mine anyway, but still gonna pull the valve cover to confirm it. I just rebuilt this engine and put lifters in it, but reused the original rocker and pushrod set-up. It better not be a lifter lol
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