Steel brake line busted!! - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 67 Old 07-06-2020, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
fmradio516
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Steel brake line busted!!

Well today I changed my front pads/rotors. I have popped the cap for the brake fluid res so fluid could easily backup into it. Job went perfectly fine. When I was done, i got in and started er up, pumped the brakes. Noticed they were taking an awful lot more pumps than I would expect. Eventually the pedal came up, and i held my foot there and it sunk! Happened again.

I get out and see a pool of fluid from the drivers side REAR. I didnt even touch the rear at all. Rotted out brake line finally gave out. Just a coincidence that it happened at the exact time I replaced the front brakes? Or maybe it gave out when I was pumping and held the pedal down. Man im happy it didnt happen while driving...

How hard is it to replace this and where is a good place to get the line? Stealership? I am not sure but i think the part # is " 52128 438AC ". Ugh if thats true, its almost $200!

I tried following the line from the rear to the front, but eventually it goes up and i lose it. I assumed it was going to the master cylinder, but theres only two metal lines going to it. Then they go to this other box in from of the master cyl that has 5 lines going to the top of it. Is this where my busted line is going?

Is it simply undo the nut on caliper end and then cut/follow it to the engine bay to figure out which of the 5 lines is the one? then bleed of course. What order do the brakes need to be bled in? is it driver-front, passenger-front, driver-rear, then passenger-rear?

I know a lot of questions but I kinda need this back up and running by Friday.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

Link to album with some pictures of whats going on: https://imgur.com/a/penEPif





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post #2 of 67 Old 07-06-2020, 06:02 PM
jay-h
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If the corrosion is simply in one spot, I would cut the line and splice in a repair piece.

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post #3 of 67 Old 07-06-2020, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
fmradio516
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Originally Posted by jay-h View Post
If the corrosion is simply in one spot, I would cut the line and splice in a repair piece.
That sounds easy. What kind of replacement hose would I need?

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post #4 of 67 Old 07-06-2020, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by fmradio516 View Post
That sounds easy. What kind of replacement hose would I need?
It might sound easy - but it ain't!

You need a length of hard line (comes in rolls & then you need the fittings - so you might be better off getting someone to make up a, say, 6" length) Then you'll need to slip new fittings over the cut ends of the OE line before you flare them - & on vehicle flaring tools that'll do steel line don't come cheap.

If you've got to buy all the materials AND the tool, it'd probably be cheaper to get a replacement line, & if you're new to making up brake lines that'd certainly be easier.
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post #5 of 67 Old 07-06-2020, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
fmradio516
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Originally Posted by UKXJ View Post
It might sound easy - but it ain't!

You need a length of hard line (comes in rolls & then you need the fittings - so you might be better off getting someone to make up a, say, 6" length) Then you'll need to slip new fittings over the cut ends of the OE line before you flare them - & on vehicle flaring tools that'll do steel line don't come cheap.

If you've got to buy all the materials AND the tool, it'd probably be cheaper to get a replacement line, & if you're new to making up brake lines that'd certainly be easier.
Thanks. I was thinking about this too, so i decided to go check the other lines. The small line at the front drivers side looks bad. And the passenger rear looks like its been replaced with something non-OEM that possibly flexes.

I might need to cave and just bring it in to someone..




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post #6 of 67 Old 07-06-2020, 07:12 PM
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got to take fittings to store so they all match. i but 2=4 lines and couplers. ez to work with short pieces. its a struggle, that back one in your pix. lube it now !!

.the front 5 are the abm brake unit.
those may be different sizes...

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post #7 of 67 Old 07-07-2020, 12:40 AM
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I just replaced the front flexible lines, but thought there could be problems undoing some steel unions and found this - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...420771&jsn=440 - it stuck me as a pretty good deal, in the end not needed.

Looking at your photos, one of your control arm ain't looking too clever on the rust front, maybe worth doing those too.
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post #8 of 67 Old 07-07-2020, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
fmradio516
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Originally Posted by HampshireWJ View Post
I just replaced the front flexible lines, but thought there could be problems undoing some steel unions and found this - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...420771&jsn=440 - it stuck me as a pretty good deal, in the end not needed.

Looking at your photos, one of your control arm ain't looking too clever on the rust front, maybe worth doing those too.
Yes!! Just before logging on here today, i checked Rockauto with a fresh set of eyes. I noticed the portion "Set" was collapsed. I was looking only at Individual lines by Mopar. This set is exactly what I needed! Phew, im happier about the price. My wife was diagnosed with a super rare rectal cancer last week, so shes not working anymore, and ill probably need to take a leave from work myself to be able to take her to radiation/chemotherapy every day for the next 4 months... Money is tight right now..

Just hoping I can do the job myself and hopefully get the rusted nuts off without incident.

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post #9 of 67 Old 07-07-2020, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 2oldjeeps View Post
got to take fittings to store so they all match. i but 2=4 lines and couplers. ez to work with short pieces. its a struggle, that back one in your pix. lube it now !!

.the front 5 are the abm brake unit.
those may be different sizes...
I just ordered the Dorman set, so I think the long one will be one piece. Hoping I can get it done. So youre saying that my busted brake line is one of the two lines going to the master cylinder? Not going to the ABS unit, correct?

Also which line are you saying I should lube? and lube with what?

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post #10 of 67 Old 07-07-2020, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone know what size wrench I need for the brake line couplers? Is a regular open ended wrench ok or do I need a special brake line wrench?

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post #11 of 67 Old 07-07-2020, 07:04 AM
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all the brake lines from the wheels go to the abs pump 3 of them, then 2 lines go to the master cylinder, also be careful when installing the new pipes as I believe the fittings on the abs module are metric while everything else is SAE, so check the threads match first before installing them.
I think he means the one on the rear axle needs cleaned/protecting with something like fluidfilm, and thats also a proper mopar part, they come with the spring spiral sheathing.
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post #12 of 67 Old 07-07-2020, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmradio516 View Post
Anyone know what size wrench I need for the brake line couplers? Is a regular open ended wrench ok or do I need a special brake line wrench?
Not sure the size sorry. You could use an open end wrench but a flare nut wrench (tubing wrench) is generally better, it grips more sides of the nut to reduce chances of rounding. Since money is tight, take your open end wrenches and find the one that fits best and then get one matching size flare nut wrench. Earlier reply said there are different sizes at each end so check both.

That flexible brake line is factory equipment, not an aftermarket piece. Mine has one just like it.

I'm no brake system expert by any stretch, I get lost between the MC and the calipers. But I think the hard lines to the calipers come out of a manifold next to the MC. You should not have to mess with the 2 lines to the MC itself.

Wishing the best for your wife.


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ok mostly just repairs, but we are closing in on a lift
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post #13 of 67 Old 07-07-2020, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CarlJH View Post
all the brake lines from the wheels go to the abs pump 3 of them, then 2 lines go to the master cylinder, also be careful when installing the new pipes as I believe the fittings on the abs module are metric while everything else is SAE, so check the threads match first before installing them.
I think he means the one on the rear axle needs cleaned/protecting with something like fluidfilm, and thats also a proper mopar part, they come with the spring spiral sheathing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GmanWJ View Post
Not sure the size sorry. You could use an open end wrench but a flare nut wrench (tubing wrench) is generally better, it grips more sides of the nut to reduce chances of rounding. Since money is tight, take your open end wrenches and find the one that fits best and then get one matching size flare nut wrench. Earlier reply said there are different sizes at each end so check both.

That flexible brake line is factory equipment, not an aftermarket piece. Mine has one just like it.

I'm no brake system expert by any stretch, I get lost between the MC and the calipers. But I think the hard lines to the calipers come out of a manifold next to the MC. You should not have to mess with the 2 lines to the MC itself.

Wishing the best for your wife.
Thanks for all the input. Yeah I spend most of this morning trying every possible wrench combination. Its weird that some things are metric and others are SAE. I found the fitting of the steel hose where it connects to the caliper rubber hose is 3/8" while at the ABS module, 7/16" is just too small, 12mm fits the best but its not a super tight fit. 11mm is too small as well.

Im just worried about the fitting on the caliper end. Its so rusted, i feel like it might sheer off, then ill need to order whatever hose it connects to as well(should have just ordered it from the start).

Since I got dorman, I assume i just need to run it just as the stock one is, and the biggest challenge is just getting the fittings loose and not breaking more stuff. Is it possible that the threading would be different as well??

I hit both ends with Kroil, so hopefully that will help free it up a bit.

On top of all of what Ive got going on, my refrigerator just kicked the bucket last night... lots of really nice frozen beef/pork/chicken all gone.. This ihas got to be the most stressful month of my life..

Any others that have done this job, feel free to chime in. I need all the help i can get.

Thanks!

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post #14 of 67 Old 07-07-2020, 10:43 AM
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Jeep played some nasty tricks with brake parts some items are metric some SAE (Imperial) inch sizes. I would always use a flare wrench or even a crow foot style flare wrench with a ratchet if possible as they have more engagement and you are less likely to round edges off. 10mm and 3/8" flare wrenches should see you all right - if you are real tight on budget then old ring wrenches with a ground out piece could be a way forward as a diy flare wrench. You'll find the fittings tight to remove but as you are replacing them cutting them is maybe not a problem for you.

Crow foot socket - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clar...yABEgLZ2fD_BwE - sorry it's a UK link but this is to give you an idea of what they are.

Sorry to hear of your wife's problems.
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post #15 of 67 Old 07-07-2020, 11:04 AM
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I'd just cut the pipe and use a 6 point socket on the flare nuts as suggested above.
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