Shock nut/bolt stuck bad - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 04-04-2020, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
NWDC
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Shock nut/bolt stuck bad

Hey guys- I'm trying to pull my rear shocks and the nuts on either side are not moving at all, they seem totally fused to the bracket. Any suggestions on how to get these to move? I've already tried liberally soaking in PB blaster and using a big breaker bar... no luck. I've tried on two separate occasions to get them to move.

These look at be the original shocks on my 2000 WJ so there is a good chance that they have never been removed. I'm probably going to run into the same problem with the sway bar links as well.

What would a shop do to remove old nuts and bolts that are really stuck like this?

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post #2 of 14 Old 04-04-2020, 02:17 PM
jansel620
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Donít hold me to it, but I believe the but is welded to the bracket and the only thing that is supposed to move is the bolt itself. So if you are going to heat the nut then only wrench on the bolt side.


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post #3 of 14 Old 04-04-2020, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jansel620 View Post
Donít hold me to it, but I believe the but is welded to the bracket and the only thing that is supposed to move is the bolt itself. So if you are going to heat the nut then only wrench on the bolt side.


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Thats good info to have, Thanks. I have only been wrenching on the nut end, i'll try putting some pressure on the other end and see if I can get it moving. None of the manuals I have say anything about the nut being welded in, which would be frustrating if it is.
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post #4 of 14 Old 04-05-2020, 01:05 AM
Bigrigr
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Yes, those nuts are welded to the shock bracket. I just swapped out a complete axle assembly that had that ear with the nut broken off. It was still attached to the shock, but broken off the axle bracket.
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post #5 of 14 Old 04-05-2020, 01:45 AM
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jansel620 View Post
Donít hold me to it, but I believe the but is welded to the bracket and the only thing that is supposed to move is the bolt itself. So if you are going to heat the nut then only wrench on the bolt side.
Exactly and heat the nut almost red hot and then loosen the bolt. Granted the rubber bushing may smoke some but you best get in the habit of heating things carefully with a torch NWDC if you don't want to snap bolts/break things. Good luck.
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post #6 of 14 Old 04-05-2020, 02:50 AM
HampshireWJ
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It's a nasty trick by Jeep making them look so much like a nut and washer, theres a few more places like this as well. Mine had an appointment with the grinder - not sure they enjoyed the experience, then a clean up, then treated to a new bolt, locking nut and washer.
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post #7 of 14 Old 04-05-2020, 07:48 AM
Blackwater5dad
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I ran into the same thing replacing the steering damper. I didn't realize the nut was welded on and it wasn't obvious. I ended cutting/grinding it off before I figured it out. Felt pretty stupid, but hey that's how we learn.


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post #8 of 14 Old 04-05-2020, 11:16 AM
three_jeeps
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That is because the nuts *are welded* to the frame. Just turn the bolt and you will be fine, leave the nuts alone
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-05-2020, 11:22 AM
TheBoogieman
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Impact wrench will remove it in 30 seconds.
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-05-2020, 05:20 PM
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I broke off the bolt close to the nut with a long 1/2" breaker bar and heat. I wondered why there were three funny looking color changes on the nut when I finally got it off. As mentioned, "That's how we learn."
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post #11 of 14 Old 04-06-2020, 10:20 AM
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IMHO, it is not the best approach to initially heat the nut red hot. You should not need to. I've R&R the back shocks of 3-4 WJs and never had a problem.
If the bolt is frozen, try wirebrushing the exposed threads, soak with liberal amount of PBlaster over night, then another application next morning. Make sure you are turning the bolt in the right direction (CCW to loosen). Use an extension on the wrench if necessary. If that doesnt work, then heat as a last resort.
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post #12 of 14 Old 04-07-2020, 05:32 PM
bkanealy
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If PBlaster doesn't work, try Kroil from Kanolabs.com it's pretty amazing at loosening nuts, bolts anything rusted stuck.
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post #13 of 14 Old 04-07-2020, 11:45 PM
ArtW
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I found nut does will off using a 4 foot pipe on a 1/2" ratchet. But I learned on the first one that they are welded and aren't meant to.
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post #14 of 14 Old 04-21-2020, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkanealy View Post
If PBlaster doesn't work, try Kroil from Kanolabs.com it's pretty amazing at loosening nuts, bolts anything rusted stuck.
Best penetrating oil is 50/50 acetone and ATF. If it can't eat through, you weren't meant to crack it loose.

There are several places throughout the suspension where the nut is welded to the frame. I always start by trying to crack the bolt free, if the nut turns, I can grab it with a wrench, otherwise I know not to waste time on the nut.

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